B20

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Sergey P.A.

Senior Member
ok, I have a GSR right, and what I want is to buy a B20z block, and swap the blocks,

do you guys think it's worth it, everybody says that B18c blocks are the best ones,

what you guys you think I should do,

if I am gonna do it, it will be a B20 block with everything else GSR, should I spend my money (which I don't have right now "my future money") on B20 block, or should I just get a strong ITR set up like ITR pistons ITR cams and springs,
 
The B20 bottom end is not worth it unless you build it. It'll give you low 9's for compression and without a remapped ECU, you'll probably run lean. Not worth it IMO. Sell your GSR tranny and use that money and the money you would have spent on the B20 block and buy a JDM ITR tranny w/ 4.785 final drive. You'll have lots of fun with that.
 
why buy a near top of the line teg(performance wise) only to swap out the motor? if you wanna do something like that, sell the gsr and buy an ls/rs/whatever..
 
If you're going to swap it, at least change the pistons out to something more aggressive than the stock pistons, then transfer the GSR girdle over to the B20 as well.
 
Originally posted by 90 accord@Mar 12 2004, 07:23 AM
why buy a near top of the line teg(performance wise) only to swap out the motor? if you wanna do something like that, sell the gsr and buy an ls/rs/whatever..
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No, doubt.
 
yeah, i agree with everything that's been said thus far. also, i would much rather have a gsr block sleeved to 2.0 (or more ;) ) than a shitty b20 block. it would only cost you about $200-400 more, and you'll still have decent compression, strong as hell sleeves, the block girdle, and oil squirters. :) where as the b20 gives you low compression, weak sleeves, and neither the block girlde or oil jets. <_<
 
So you are all saying B20VTEC which is what he's wanting to do is pointless. Yes, change pistons to something with at least 10:1 Compression, get stronger rods sucha s Eagle or what have you, then bearings, and gaskets, get a b20 headgasket (2 layer to raise compression a little), put it together run a hondata intake manifold gasket, an ICEMAN CAIAN-R Exhuast header, thermal R&D Classic exhuast.

Or go BOOST, the B20Z has a compression ratio of 9:1 or so, you cna safely run 8-10 pounds on all stock internals, I believe. have fun, do what ever you want though.
 
Originally posted by SpodaB1@Mar 12 2004, 12:32 PM
So you are all saying B20VTEC which is what he's wanting to do is pointless.
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you can go with b20vtec if it is more convenient or cheaper. but since most people end up resleeving the b20 block, it is easier and cheaper to just keep the b18 block and have it resleeved/rebored later.
 
Keep in mind that the oil squirters are not for lubrication, they are for cooling. Forged pistons deal with heat much better than the stock cast ones. If you are replacing the pistons with forged ones, then the need for squirters is not as necissary.

Block girdle is a cheap investment as well.
 
Originally posted by Sergey P.A.@Mar 12 2004, 11:22 PM
dohch22a4 wouldnt be the same if I would swap the final drive gear set,
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Well, I'm pretty sure their gearings are slightly different, along with the final gear ratio. But the biggest difference is the viscous limited slip differential that comes with the ITR.
 
Originally posted by K2e2vin@Mar 12 2004, 06:21 PM
you can go with b20vtec if it is more convenient or cheaper. but since most people end up resleeving the b20 block, it is easier and cheaper to just keep the b18 block and have it resleeved/rebored later.
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Really? Most people use the B20 as it is without a sleeve job...
 
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