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b20vtec help

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by SplitzO, Nov 14, 2006.

  1. SplitzO

    SplitzO Junior Member

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    alright I am about to have my b20 and gonna get a gsr head for it. Before I put the head on and put the motor in the car I was wanting to go ahead and possibly start building the block up. I want to run turbo so do I need to get the block sleeved? What pistons should I go with is there anything else I should look into? I am looking at the Garrett T3 /60-1 w/ .82 a/r for the turbo. Wanting to make sure the motor is gonna be able to handle high boost. Thanks
     
  2. tartymctang2357

    tartymctang2357 Grand High Wizard

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    yes if you're gonna put a turbo or any forced induction on a b20 block sleeving is a must, the cylinder walls are thin and brittle and crack easily, if you wanna run high boost then get low compression pistons and stronger rods/rod bolts

    G2IC Turbo Guide - A Guide to Turbocharging your Honda / Acura Integra
    pretty complete guide to turboing a b-series engine
     
  3. D See 2

    D See 2 Senior Member

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    Forged internals are a must..., sleeving the block though will be the difference between 350 and 500+ whp.
     
  4. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    hell I wouldn't shoot for 350 on an unsleeved B20.
     
  5. SplitzO

    SplitzO Junior Member

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    i believe this was a lil bit older. yeah I am gonna sleeve the block. and thanks tartymctang that guide helped a lot.
     
  6. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    I would. They're not made of glass like everyone would like to believe.
     
  7. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    they aren't bulletproof either. i like to have a cushion of safety and comfort.

    then again, i wouldn't even build a b20 project anyways.
     
  8. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Your margin of error is just a few points out of a hundred shorter with the B20 compared to the B18. If you're going to go for something like 300-400whp, there's no reason to not use the B20 block.
     
  9. SplitzO

    SplitzO Junior Member

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    okay wanna give some reasoning behind that? I figured the b20 would be better with gsr head and tranny etc etc sleeved etc etc turbo'd and would produce better then same setup using a ls. And I thought it would hold up better.
     
  10. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    If you're going to resleeve your engine, just get the cheapest block. The initial bore won't matter since you're going to be cutting out the stock sleeves anyway. If you're going to run the stock sleeves, the B20 is fine. Just get your tuning right. If in a particular setup you would max out a normal B18A/B block at 16psi, you could run the B20 at 14 and be fine.
     
  11. SplitzO

    SplitzO Junior Member

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    thats cool and all but I am gonna wanna run more then 14-16. Im thinkin more like 20+? Haha so I am gonna need something thats gonna hold up to that then. I mean like 16 would be straight and all but im tryin to go all out here.
     
  12. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    well you're going to be sleeving a block no matter what block it is then.
     
  13. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Do the math and figure out how much boost you need for the power level you want... then tune tune tune!
     
  14. ms.tuner

    ms.tuner Banned

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    i want your b20!!
     
  15. SplitzO

    SplitzO Junior Member

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    Yeah okay I am outta the whole honda scene. Car is gone gonna go back to a v8. And what b20 are you talkin about?
     
  16. ms.tuner

    ms.tuner Banned

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    hmm....your first post said something bout a b2o....but not a big deal
     
  17. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    didnt i post in this topic already. 300-350 is cake on a b20. youre not gonna break through the sleeves with that. When you start pushing towards 400, youll want to sleeve, just like with any block.
     
  18. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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    Posting the block and using a block girdle are plenty of strength for an NA and maybe low\mid boost B20\VTEC. I don't know about the actual integrity behind the Devcon block filling, but it may be worth a shot and would be an effective addition to the posts and girdle.

    For that power range, you'd need a reworked oil system, an ITR\GSR water pump, a balanced crank pulley, forged internals, machine work all over the place, a lot of calculations would need to be done with a lot of planning. The parts I listed barely touch on the list of things you need to buy to assemble an engine properly, use strong enough parts, ensure inter-engine compatibility since it's a frank motor, etc... People need to stop doing this in their garages over a quick weekend like it's a bolt-up process.
     
  19. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    Well i dont know what got your panties in a wad :)p) but if you have all the parts i dont see why this swap takes more than two days. We can build a 632ci Chevy motor from bare block/heads to full complete and ready to drop in (takes another day for wiring and actual installation)...i dont see why a ls/v or a b20/v would be any different if you have all the correct parts on hand.
     
  20. Exodus

    Exodus Junior Member

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    I apologize for the lack of clarity.

    Most of the time, in my experience, B18\B20VTEC threads go like this:

    omgokSO, i ahv a spair b20 blok around and wanna maka b20VTAK! i alredy have a b16 bomber swap in my civic hatch, so i'm just gonna pull the bootom end owt and drop the b20 in, rite?? cuz like, i only have today and tomorrow off (btw it's 11pm) and my car musthasta RUN or i cant go to wrok! do u guys thynk i can make 400hp tomorow?

    So as you can imagine, I get a bit... dry, with these threads. This is a subject of engine building, not a quick to-do under a shade tree.

    A lot of considerations, a LOT, need to be made during engine design\part selection. For instance, everything on the belt side has to match the head (except timing belt, that can't be a B16 piece, even if your head is, hence, this is a consideration inside of a consideration). Likewise, the head gasket is another choice you can't just make, there are calculations that require the head gasket thickness as a variable, etc... Also, the matter of plumbing oil to the head is something you have to deal with, as is positive crankcase ventilation, fuel and oil demands, bottom end structure, mounts and linkage, this is simply not a motor you could put together as easily as others. You don't just go shopping for parts for one like you would at Kroger, it's about research, math and what you want to do with the engine when it's complete.

    Once the engine is assembled, installation into a chassis, any necessary wiring work, addition of fluids and otherwise general buttoning up of a swap shouldn't take more than a section of a day. Like, an afternoon moving into evening, etc... Even in the machine shop, the work being done prior to assembly doesn't even take that long. But from the decision to do B20 (or LS) VTEC to having it running in your car, simply isn't a short affair, not if you want it to be RIGHT.

    See what I mean?
     
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