Best option please help...

[Samuels]

I'm thinking of trading my swapped EF hatch for a EG hatch. The car was a LS/Turbo it was supposedly built by John at absolute pro-formance in Finksburg,MD. The car is said to have run a 13.2 on 8lbs of boost. The guy i'm getting it from was only running a AFC if i'm not mistaken for fuel management. He had a friend hook up a greddy profec b and supposedly hooked it up backwards somehow and spiking 28 psi cracking the sleeve. The spring in the wastgate was also removed. The motor supposedly has crower valvetrain and SRP 9:1 PISTONS and eagle h-beam rods. The head,rods and pistons were supposedly check out by a machine shop in MD and are okay but the pistons need rings. I'm gonna have my machine shop check the parts out. The guy is including a donor block but its been sitting in the rain according to him but was in running condition beforehand. Is this gonna be useable??? If so what else should I buy besides piston rings for the block??
He is including the AFC,RC 550'S and a blox 12:1 fmu the last 2 was'nt installed before hand..

I only wanna run 8-10psi and want a 13 sec car thats reliable. I really don't want to run the AFC or the FMU what is the cheapest solution to tuning??

The car is a 92 vx and has a LS tranny. What is my best option here should I sell the head it has the crower valvetrain,cam gears etc and the pistons,rods,afc,fmu,550's ??

I can get a 94 LS motor locally with 90k for 600 at the junkyard. I can get a b20 from noyan for probably right around that but i've heard the sleeves are to weak for boost without getting it sleeved. I can also get a gen 2 b16 motor locally for 650 but the miles are unknown??

What is my best option here?? MY goal is only 8-10psi the turbo is a t3/t4 56intake 60 exhaust but the whole system is welded to the whole exhaust which sux..

If this is the wrong forum please move it for me thanks just wanting some advice before I make mistakes wasting money... thanks

 

[phunky.buddha]

I would keep what you have- it sounds like you would be inheriting a lot of headache with the EG.

The B20 is NOT too weak to boost. Just don't tune it like a moron.

If your EF is already swapped and it runs fine, then I would just save the cash you were going to spend fixing up this EG and use it to boost your car. Any B series engine swapped into an EF will run 13s on a proper turbo setup, even with all stock internals.

As for tuning, you could go with one of the "chip it yourself" systems- like Uberdata or something.

 

[Samuels]

Quoted post[/post]]
I would keep what you have- it sounds like you would be inheriting a lot of headache with the EG.

The B20 is NOT too weak to boost. Just don't tune it like a moron.

If your EF is already swapped and it runs fine, then I would just save the cash you were going to spend fixing up this EG and use it to boost your car. Any B series engine swapped into an EF will run 13s on a proper turbo setup, even with all stock internals.

As for tuning, you could go with one of the "chip it yourself" systems- like Uberdata or something.

Thanks man, Here is my sitiation in a nutshell. MY car has a b16 swap with CTR cams and I-H-E,IM etc basically all the boltons. It does'nt have heat which sucks right now. I've been trying to sell it for awhile but never really seriously advertised it till now. It has a bodykit etc so some people call it to ricey when looking at it to purchase. I just put it in this weeks autotrader for 3500/obo but will take 3k firm and its got brand new 900 doller rotas. I've always wanted a newer EG or EK hatch to build i've spent alot of time and money in my EF and I love it but its just gotten old. This is what i'm being offered for my hatch..

The guy is giving me 500 cash has well
92 vx hatch nice body
CF front lip
black projectors
CF hood
cf duckbil
m3 mirrors
eg6 foglights
coilovers
tenzo r seats w 4 point
cf steering wheel
AFC
T3/T4 56INTAKE 60 EXHAUST
B-SERIES CAST DRAG MANIFOLD
TANABE 3INCH EXHAUST
RC 550's
blox 12:1
LS head w/crower valvetrain
jg cam gears
Apexi FMIC with piping
stock LS block but its been sitting in the rain
SRP 9:1 pistons needs rings was in blown motor
eagle h-beam rods was in blown motor
mr gasket ls headgasket brand new
ls tranny
ls ecu

And the car comes on steelies everything motor,tranny,turbo is off the car. The turbo is welded to the exhaust its 1 big long piece pure crazy. The car looks good its just empty. I've bought a EG coupe before with no motor,tranny,ecu and done the complete LS swap myself it was so easy I just don't have much time working 60 hours a week.

What do you guys think would be my best option. If I can buy a B20 or LS stock motor and have this thing tuned for around 2k i'm straight.

 

[SlushboxTeggy]

i would do it.

 

[VTECPOWER]

I thought about looking at that car, it does look nice, i like the rims, saw it on honda tech.

Doesnt sound bad, i like eg over ef, just swap out the bottom end, and build up an extra bottom end, the head is already built.

 

[Samuels]

You talking about my car or is??

I was the 1 selling the apexi world sport but then I put the other exhaust on and was like yikes and got cold feet. Everything workout good for you??

Quoted post[/post]]
i would do it.

Well he is giving me cash so I was gonna buy me a beater to drive around this winter.

If I do the trade I'm gonna put in a stock motor for now and turbo it either a LS or b20 probably and run 8lbs of boost. Honestly if I can get it tuned and its reliable i'm fine with that setup.

I was thinking of either building a extra motor if the donor block he gives me is good and slapping the head on thier.

Or selling the rods,pistons,AFC,FMU,Head,cam gears and 550's because I probably won't need them. I should be able to get enough for a stock motor by selling this parts right??

Wont the stock injectors on a LS or b20 be fine with the proper tune??

 

[phunky.buddha]

Hmm. I guess you could go ahead and trade if you want the newer body. Otherwise I would just suggest turbocharging the B16 as it in your EF.

I guess the EG can be easily built back to running shape since you have experience with that chassis.

Get bigger injectors though. You can get quality injectors brand new for about $250 these days. You don't have to buy RC or any of the expensive brands to run a safe amount of fuel.

Yes, you can sell everything for enough cash to get another block. Keep the 550s though.

 

[Samuels]

So the 550's are needed?? He did'nt even have them or the FMU in the car just the AFC..

I talked to a guy on pm who works at the shop and just happens to be the guy who sold him the donor block tonight. He told me helped build the car last year and it was legit. He said the block is perfect for a rebuild but it being in the rain still scares me.

thanks again for the help... I just don't wanna have to redo work I coulda got right the 1st time..

 

[phunky.buddha]

You don't necessarily need to go as large as 550- but you should run larger than stock injectors if you want to run any kind of decent a/f ratio with a healthy turbo setup.

 

[Samuels]

Quoted post[/post]]
You don't necessarily need to go as large as 550- but you should run larger than stock injectors if you want to run any kind of decent a/f ratio with a healthy turbo setup.

Well the kid is flatbedding it to my house right. I just gotta figure out if I want to rebuild the donor block by bore it 20 over useing the pistons,rods,new rings and all new bearings then slapping the head on. This block won't be sleeved or have any kinda blockguard.

How much stronger is this engine gonna be over a stock LS by just adding the valvetrain,pistons and rods??

I'm just trying to decide if I should just buy me a stock motor and drop it in. Then I could sell the donor block,pistons,rods and head with crower valvetrain also the FMU AND afc... What kinda money could I get out of the pistons,rods,and head,fmu and AFC used..

 

[Samuels]

Ok I talked to some local shops. I can get a JDM LS motor under 50k from Noyan for 800 a B20 for 900 and b16 for 1k. I talked to inline pro and they said they can have the donor block honed,balanced and put back togther with all new bearings,rings and seals for 1500..

They also said hondata was the best option and they could tune it and install hondata for 1k...

 

[Samuels]

The was the price for putting the complete motor back together with new water pump,oil pump,timing belt everything out the door. And yes I know inline pro is extremely expensive. I plan to just sell the parts and buy me a LS from noyan anyway. I can't afford to keep everything and dish out cash for the rebuild right now...No need to be a A-HOLE..

 

[Samuels]

my fault if you were'nt trying to be a smart...

 

[Samuels]

the hondata s3 is 600 thier and they need to burn a chip and 2 sessions on the dyno for 1k.. Either way I just called the experienced local shop to get some rounda bout prices. I know not to go to inline pro they charge 2k just for labor on a swap now its insane...