Better Setup?

[SOHCMUGENCRX]

Which would be a better and more reliable turbo setup? either a B20b sleeved with ls head and stock vavletrain or a B16 with forged reinforced pistons and rods, with Port/polished type R head with upgraded valvetrain? I want to boost high, but i want my car to be a fast 1/4 mile contender. and i heard i wouldnt be able to rev high in the b20. so let me know what you think , thanks

 

[UDT]

Originally posted by SOHCMUGENCRX@Sep 5 2004, 05:57 AM
Which would be a better and more reliable turbo setup? either a  B20b sleeved with ls head and stock vavletrain or a B16 with forged reinforced pistons and rods, with Port/polished type R head with upgraded valvetrain? I want to boost high, but i want my car to be a fast 1/4 mile contender. and i heard i wouldnt be able to rev high in the b20. so let me know what you think , thanks

[post=386307]Quoted post[/post]​

B16>b20 The b20 is not a good candadit for boost. And if your hell bent on the b20 since your gonna resleave it any ways, you may as well save some cash and problems and just buy a B18a/b and bore over to the 2.0 ltrs you want. The B16 should be very reliable as long as the work is done proper and the engine management is good along with good tuning. But thats not saying you could get away with bad tuning and shity management on the b20. Ither way expect to shell for fuel management if you want your engine to last. especialy if you plan on running more then 6 or 7 psi of boost. The B16 is gonna be an all around good motor good for boost, good for high reving = good for driving. Over all it would be easy to get higher HP/TQ numbers from a turboed B20 but how long will the engine make that power.......only till it blows? The b16 may not make quite as much power on the same set up as the b20 but overall your going to be safer with the B16 when it comes to "reliability"

Have you considerd a turboed b18a/b without the Vtec head swap, just the B18a/b? Ya know theres nothing wrong with being different and many non Vtec engines have put down some nice numbers.

Im sure some one will come behind me and reiterate what i have just stated above.

 

[NotUrAverage_Si]

A B18c1 bored to 2.0L gets my vote.

 

[handlebarsfsr]

Originally posted by UDT+Sep 5 2004, 09:46 AM-->

SOHCMUGENCRX

@Sep 5 2004, 05:57 AM
Which would be a better and more reliable turbo setup? either a B20b sleeved with ls head and stock vavletrain or a B16 with forged reinforced pistons and rods, with Port/polished type R head with upgraded valvetrain? I want to boost high, but i want my car to be a fast 1/4 mile contender. and i heard i wouldnt be able to rev high in the b20. so let me know what you think , thanks

[post=386307]Quoted post[/post]​

B16>b20 The b20 is not a good candadit for boost. And if your hell bent on the b20 since your gonna resleave it any ways, you may as well save some cash and problems and just buy a B18a/b and bore over to the 2.0 ltrs you want. The B16 should be very reliable as long as the work is done proper and the engine management is good along with good tuning. But thats not saying you could get away with bad tuning and shity management on the b20. Ither way expect to shell for fuel management if you want your engine to last. especialy if you plan on running more then 6 or 7 psi of boost. The B16 is gonna be an all around good motor good for boost, good for high reving = good for driving. Over all it would be easy to get higher HP/TQ numbers from a turboed B20 but how long will the engine make that power.......only till it blows? The b16 may not make quite as much power on the same set up as the b20 but overall your going to be safer with the B16 when it comes to "reliability"

Have you considerd a turboed b18a/b without the Vtec head swap, just the B18a/b? Ya know theres nothing wrong with being different and many non Vtec engines have put down some nice numbers.

Im sure some one will come behind me and reiterate what i have just stated above.

[post=386314]Quoted post[/post]​

b20>b16. im so sick and tired of the myths about b20s being so fragile. yes, the b20 has weaker sleeves than other b series motors. if you plan to push 400 whp with no sleeving, then get a b16. however there are plenty of boosted b20s pushing 250-300 whp reliably, and making more torque than any other b series. if you want to push the stock motor to its absolute limits, get a b16 or b18. if you want a torquey as hell motor that, mod for mod, dollar for dollar will eat b16's, get a b20. i have a b20z2 in my 4dr and b16 powered civics are jokes unless they have some serious mods. torque, powerband> peak hp.

 

[Cashizslick]

if you plan to push 400 whp with no sleeving, then get a b16. however there are plenty of boosted b20s pushing 250-300 whp reliably, and making more torque than any other b series. if you want to push the stock motor to its absolute limits, get a b16 or b18. if you want a torquey as hell motor that, mod for mod, dollar for dollar will eat b16's, get a b20. i have a b20z2 in my 4dr and b16 powered civics are jokes unless they have some serious mods. torque, powerband> peak hp.

[post=386405]Quoted post[/post]​

[/quote]


even if he did have 400hp - traction would be a serious issue . . . . regaurdless of the motor.

Question - what does ur B20 pwrd 4dr run in the quarter?

 

[beerbongskickass]

Originally posted by handlebarsfsr@Sep 5 2004, 04:14 PM
b20>b16. im so sick and tired of the myths about b20s being so fragile. yes, the b20 has weaker sleeves than other b series motors. if you plan to push 400 whp with no sleeving, then get a b16. however there are plenty of boosted b20s pushing 250-300 whp reliably, and making more torque than any other b series. if you want to push the stock motor to its absolute limits, get a b16 or b18. if you want a torquey as hell motor that, mod for mod, dollar for dollar will eat b16's, get a b20. i have a b20z2 in my 4dr and b16 powered civics are jokes unless they have some serious mods. torque, powerband> peak hp.

[post=386405]Quoted post[/post]​

Stock B20 sleeves sucks donkey balls, it's not a myth. Go search around if you don't believe me, my buddy cracked the sleeves in his B20/Vtec turbo. I also know another guy that has a B20 turbo, but has not had problems yet. I wouldn't want to risk it though because the sleeves are weak. People are even cracking sleeves running N/A B20's. If they are cracking sleeves running N/A, the chance of them cracking a sleeve when boosting is a lot higher. You must be one of the lucky ones that hasn't had any problems, yet.

Stock sleeves don't really come into play with this topic though because the guy wants to sleeve his block. A simple built LS/Vtec would have good torque and be able to rev high. To answer this guy's question I would go with the B16, if you want a little more torque build up an LS block to stick under the B16 head (what I would do because it's a little cheaper than a GSR or I would just go swith the B16). Honda motors make power at high rpms so revving high is good. I would go with a GSR, LS/Vtec, or B16 before I went with a B20 setup because they all rev higher. Maybe a B20/Vtec setup? You could just get an LS and bore it out to a 2.0L though so it doesn't really matter, I don't think going 2.0L is that necessary though, just up the boost. So defintely B16 > B20 in my opinion.

To give you an idea of what a built B16 can do. My buddy has a built B16 (stock sleeves, eagle rods, forged pistons) and he made 380whp on the dyno and his best time so far is a 11.1 @ 127 mph. Not too sure on the boost he is running, T4 turbo with 20ish psi I think. Oh and he hasn't had one clean run on the dyno or track yet, Last time at the track he ran an 11.3 and the next run melted his distributor. The time before at the track he ran a 12.1 (rev limiter was stick at 7500), then the next run he bent the sub frame. I have no doubt in my mind with some tuning he will get 400+ whp and 10's in the 1/4 mile.

 

[posol]

goal: go fast in the 1/4. Check.
Budget: blank.

fill in the blank, and i can offer advice.

 

[handlebarsfsr]

i have no idea what it runs.. i just got it on the road a week ago, and im still working on getting it to run right. im having some hesitation issues, and im running the stock dx exhaust with a massive leak in it. besides, drag racing isnt my thing, im more about just a nice all around car that handles great and has great throttle response.

 

[Cashizslick]

Originally posted by handlebarsfsr@Sep 6 2004, 12:32 AM
i have no idea what it runs.. i just got it on the road a week ago, and im still working on getting it to run right. im having some hesitation issues, and im running the stock dx exhaust with a massive leak in it. besides, drag racing isnt my thing, im more about just a nice all around car that handles great and has great throttle response.

[post=386545]Quoted post[/post]​

I bet your car drives well for a daily driver (lower RPM range). To be honest, my car is a slug under 6k rpms - but its still faster than with the D16Z6 under 6k. . . . . . still though, i like the track, its fun to see how fast ur car is and to see how you imporve as a driver.

 

[handlebarsfsr]

Originally posted by Cashizslick+Sep 6 2004, 11:18 AM-->

handlebarsfsr

@Sep 6 2004, 12:32 AM
i have no idea what it runs.. i just got it on the road a week ago, and im still working on getting it to run right. im having some hesitation issues, and im running the stock dx exhaust with a massive leak in it. besides, drag racing isnt my thing, im more about just a nice all around car that handles great and has great throttle response.

[post=386545]Quoted post[/post]​

I bet your car drives well for a daily driver (lower RPM range). To be honest, my car is a slug under 6k rpms - but its still faster than with the D16Z6 under 6k. . . . . . still though, i like the track, its fun to see how fast ur car is and to see how you imporve as a driver.

[post=386624]Quoted post[/post]​

well i only live about 30 mins from you, maybe we need a hs meet sometime.. or will you be at the h-t meet at marcus dairy on the 25th? and the car has definite pulling power at low rpm- i can floor in in 5th on the highway and actually accelerate, even up hills. my d16z6 needs a downshift on almost everything.

 

[Cashizslick]

my d16z6 needs a downshift on almost everything.

[post=386638]Quoted post[/post]​

Thats why i got rid of mine . . . . what town are you from ->im from springfield.

 

[handlebarsfsr]

Originally posted by Cashizslick@Sep 6 2004, 03:20 PM

my d16z6 needs a downshift on almost everything.

[post=386638]Quoted post[/post]​

Thats why i got rid of mine . . . . what town are you from ->im from springfield.

[post=386677]Quoted post[/post]​

i live right outside of hartford ct.

 

[beerbongskickass]

You got rid of your D16Z6?

D-series > B-series...

 

[Cashizslick]

Originally posted by beerbongskickass@Sep 6 2004, 06:14 PM
You got rid of your D16Z6?

D-series > B-series...

[post=386702]Quoted post[/post]​

nice dyno numbers, ur car must be fun to drive (i know it'd beat mine now).

But i wanted a motor that had a lot of potential to work with so i got a Bseries, not wreakin on the D16 or anything, its just i wanted a solid, reliable, strong motor with which to work with.

 

[handlebarsfsr]

Originally posted by beerbongskickass@Sep 6 2004, 06:14 PM
You got rid of your D16Z6?

D-series > B-series...

[post=386702]Quoted post[/post]​

i still have my z6.. its just in my daily driver. the 2 liter is in my toy. and concidering it cost me less than 3 grand including the quaife diff, the car, and 2 swaps, i think i did allright.

 

[[Freemantle]]

I'm sure this topic was meant to educate somewhere along the way...

Sleeves are always a hit or miss issue. If you have a budget for sleeves, then the B20 isn't a bad idea. Remember that when you are on the dyno, nobody gives 2 shits about your horsepower. Only the guys on Honda-Tech.