Block guard

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Honda-boi

Junior Member
I have a block guard in my fully built ls it about half an inch or less but not sitting all the way at the top. My question is do i leave it in or take it out because some people say that it keeps heat at the top of the cylinder and causes them to crack after a while but my block guard is not at the top and im going to travel alot would be alright. Oh and if I should take it out i how do you do it because i tried and its very hard i could not get it and what do i use to get it out? Oh the setup is going to be ls Vtec
 
take it out, sell it, do the DIY block guard on the homepage. better block guard for about 40 bucks.
 
or, just sleeve the motor, and do it the right way :)

The diy block guard is cool, but sleeves are a gillion times more able to handle abuse.
 
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or, just sleeve the motor, and do it the right way :)

The diy block guard is cool, but sleeves are a gillion times more able to handle abuse.
hotrex is pushing around 387hp. he also claimed it was tested to 20 psi to be reliable. sounds good enough for me.
 
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or, just sleeve the motor, and do it the right way :)

The diy block guard is cool, but sleeves are a gillion times more able to handle abuse.
hotrex is pushing around 387hp. he also claimed it was tested to 20 psi to be reliable. sounds good enough for me.

How do you test for reliability? :p

I said that the diy block guard is cool, I'd just trust a thicker cylinder wall a lot more than just some polyurethane or whatever the diy blockguard is made out of.
 
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or, just sleeve the motor, and do it the right way :)

The diy block guard is cool, but sleeves are a gillion times more able to handle abuse.
hotrex is pushing around 387hp. he also claimed it was tested to 20 psi to be reliable. sounds good enough for me.

How do you test for reliability? :p

I said that the diy block guard is cool, I'd just trust a thicker cylinder wall a lot more than just some polyurethane or whatever the diy blockguard is made out of.
liquid aluminum i believe, but i get your point. however to me its more of a monetary thing. if the DIY can hold to 387 then ill go with that because i doubt ill own a car with that much power. around 40 bucks> around 800 bucks
 
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liquid aluminum i believe, but i get your point. however to me its more of a monetary thing. if the DIY can hold to 387 then ill go with that because i doubt ill own a car with that much power. around 40 bucks> around 800 bucks

Well, I'm not saying that it won't hold, even with more power. I'd just like to see someone go through the same stress and fatigue cycling tests that they do with sleeves to see how capable the diy setup is. Is the diy blockguard rigid enough to decrease cylinder expansion. I could see its ability to stabilize the cylinders at the top end, and I would guess it does an excellent job. I just want to see how it would hold up after beating on it over the car's lifetime, with a bunch of power thrown at it.

And to correct you, 800 bucks is >>> 40 bucks :p
 
387 isnt shit. Stock sleeves can handle 387 all day long provided someone tuned it properly. i know people making 4 and change on stock sleeves.

So just cause the car runs still and made 387 doesnt mean that the DIY filler actually did anything, just proves that its not needed. Now on the other hand, if hes making 550 on stock sleeves, reliably, for long periods of time then id have to say the filler helped
 
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387 isnt shit. Stock sleeves can handle 387 all day long provided someone tuned it properly. i know people making 4 and change on stock sleeves.

So just cause the car runs still and made 387 doesnt mean that the DIY filler actually did anything, just proves that its not needed. Now on the other hand, if hes making 550 on stock sleeves, reliably, for long periods of time then id have to say the filler helped
id rather be save than sorry. if im pushing 350+ it wont be on stock sleeves. however im also not shelling out 800 bucks.
 
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