Block Posting

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J

jeep45238

Junior Member
Where the hell do people get the aluminum posts for this? I'm on the verge of using some head bolts (they're subject to the thermal cycles of the block with both oil and coolant temps) for this, since I'm figuring that they must be able to expand at the same rate, or nearly the same rate, as the block itself.

Anybody have some links on this?
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Aug 19 2004, 10:37 PM
don't bother. its a waste of time
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I disagree.

There are few (many just one) companies I would put faith in what they do simply because of who they are, and Endyn is one of them.

If Larry didn't see them being worth the time and effort to install them, he most definetly wouldn't.

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone/

Read this for some info on block posting
 
I dunno about it being a waste of time.

This isn't for a honda, it's for an aluminum blocked saturn. There's probably 4 or less people over 300 horses (the rest of us are cheap asses). 1/2 of them have had problems with cylinder movement.

To me, there's not enough people making enough power to make a solid statement eiher way, and I'd rather be safe than sorry. Besides, 2 taps and some aluminum posts (which I've read cost around $25 or so) is cheap insurance.

So, does ANYONE know where they get the aluminum posts?
 
Originally posted by jeep45238@Aug 20 2004, 05:03 AM
I dunno about it being a waste of time.

This isn't for a honda, it's for an aluminum blocked saturn. There's probably 4 or less people over 300 horses (the rest of us are cheap asses). 1/2 of them have had problems with cylinder movement.

To me, there's not enough people making enough power to make a solid statement eiher way, and I'd rather be safe than sorry. Besides, 2 taps and some aluminum posts (which I've read cost around $25 or so) is cheap insurance.

So, does ANYONE know where they get the aluminum posts?
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Don't build the saturn, I tried, succeeded, then fell to the ground. I was pushing maybe 233.6 whp in it, then a rod snapped a month after the dyno and the whole project went down the drain. There is no need to make a statement from a saturn.

Of course I was new at engine building and it was completely my fault, I was a cheap ass (it was a saturn, who cares right?) and didn't want to buy new rods nor did I think I would need them. But FWIW it was somewhat fun. Wish I had broughten it to the track to see what it could do. I would say it coulda been in the mid to high 13s.

It was a real sleeper, but that 1.9 Turbo DOHC saturn had LOTS of potential believe or not, you just gotta take the right precautions.
 
posting will not solve a cracked sleeve problem.

posting will only help save the rest of the block in the vent of a cyl. blow.

therefore, i think its a waste of time and money.

Endyn... he has a lot of good ideas, and a lot of good parts...
but i just don't see the point to this one.
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Aug 20 2004, 09:09 AM
posting will not solve a cracked sleeve problem.

posting will only help save the rest of the block in the vent of a cyl. blow.

therefore, i think its a waste of time and money.

Endyn... he has a lot of good ideas, and a lot of good parts...
but i just don't see the point to this one.
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Its the same concept as a block guard. Of cource its not as strong as sleaving, but if you can direct some of the side loading forces that would otherwise cause flex in the sleaves (which leads to stress fractures) you will be increasing the life of the sleaves.

This isn't something he just thought up one day on the couch, it is a technique that he used for many years when building engines for nascar teams. Granted Nascar isn't the most high tech racing out there, if you think about the money they sink into their engines its pretty clear to see that the good ideas and the bad would be sorted out pretty quick.
 
I am NOT looking to keep the sleeves from craking, but to keep the cylinders from moving. I don't like to take chances when it comes to my crap, especially with a floating cylinder engine.

I don't need to be told not to buy something, I need to know where people get the aluminum ones. Carry on the arguments about the pros and cons elsewhere, I need to find this out while the block is in the shop and before the bore/honing begins.



92civic: I'm not being a cheap ass about it ;-) Crower rods are going to be ordered next week, the crank is coming in from the shop soon, and pistons will be ordered as soon as I get the block back from the shop, as I'm not sure if any boring will be required to get the sleeves right. I'm building a gem right the first time, no need to cut short cuts in a dragster.




Still waiting for someone with half a brain that can at a minimum point me in the right direction......
 
I inquired about posting also when building my last block. The simple answer I have is..

1. If you are really worried about the cylinders walking...sleeve it.
2. Sure the post add stability, but what happens when the cylinder gets really hot, the part of the cylinder not supported by the post has more of a tendency to flex and to compensate for the posted portion = out of round cylinder.

my $.02

matt
 
1. Good luck finding sleeves for a saturn. I'm seriously considering measuring them and seeing if anything aftermarket swaps in, but i haven't had the time to do that.

2. You'd get that even if the cylinder as a whole wasn't supported or if part of it is supported. Screwed either way.
 
if you put it on par with a block guard....
why does endyn NOT recommend one ?
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They do recommend them, if done properly.

The concept is really a good one. My personal experience with them is that the top of the cylinder bore runs extremely hot due to the lack of coolant. We have taken the unit and used a 3/8" end mill and scalloped the circular sections which surround the cylinder bores. We leave only 1/8th" sections every 3/8th". So you still support the cylinder, but only in 1/8th" wide areas, which allows much better cylinder cooling, and if you do this mod, and you really need the support, do it....it'll work. Make sure that after "fitting" the unit, bore and hone after installation. Also deck the block after installation and clean the block thoroughly before assembly. Do not, under any circumstances remove the blockguard after all this machining and prep, or you'll need to start over........................T.O.O. ..........................
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Further there is less blocking of the coolant jackets.

Originally posted by hybrid89@Aug 20 2004, 07:29 PM
2. Sure the post add stability, but what happens when the cylinder gets really hot, the part of the cylinder not supported by the post has more of a tendency to flex and to compensate for the posted portion = out of round cylinder.
[post=379888]Quoted post[/post]​
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The posts are made of the same grade alluminum as the sleaves, they will expand and contract at the same rate as the sleaves. There are braced in several places where the flexing is the greatest.

I have never herd of a case of out of round cylinders due to block posting.
 
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