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Brake Options for EG Race Car

Discussion in 'Wheels / Suspension / Tires / Brakes' started by CAFROG, Dec 6, 2014.

  1. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    I'm slowly getting into racing my 1992 Civic Si.

    Hoping you guys can educate me on some efficient brake options that won't break the bank. I want to run 15x8 wheels and would rather not switch to 5-lug but I'm open to opinions. At this point, I would like some Enkei PF01's.

    Currently I have stock 4-wheel disc brakes and brand new OEM pads. I know I'll need to do something better soon.

    I plan on putting new brake lines from caliper to hard lines. Any options on stainless brake lines? Seems to be a big variance in their prices.

    Any insight is appreciated :thumbsup:
     
  2. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    What kind of racing? Are you wanting to upgrade calipers, or keep stock?

    I know its a different platform, but I ran Brembo blank rotors with EBC Red Stuff pads on my Camaro. The combo had amazing braking power. No fade, and I didnt have to get any heat in the pads before they really started to work.

    In my research before I bought that setup, I found that slotted and drilled rotors are mostly a gimmick these days, due to the compounds that brake pads are currently made of. I found a lot of info saying avoid slotted and drilled rotors, but there are tons of people who have no idea what theyre talkin about who bought some off ebay and love em. So, reviews are mixed.
     
    E_SolSi likes this.
  3. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    I am looking into track racing like Thunderhill. I want a set up that will cool off efficently. I am looking into making ducts to direct air to rotors. I figure it's a better cooling option than slotted rotors.

    I think the Brembo option won't clear on 15" rims. Plus their price is like whoa. But they would be beefy.

    I want to keep my hub set up because (at least so far) it goes well with my axle set up. 4X100.

    I would like to try another set of OEM calipers for the fronts. I think I can get away with aftermarket pads in the rear.....but maybe I'm wrong?

    I've read that can run a DC2 ITR set up and redrill the rotors for my lug pattern. I think they is a company that sells such a rotor but I believe I'd have to source the calipers. Might be difficult to just source them without the whole 5-lug swap.

    I've read info (but not enough info) on other OEM calipers that guys put on their hatches. S2000 and some Acura Sedan calipers. I haven't been able to confirm what works and what parts/mods are needed.
     
  4. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    Saw this just now. Acura Legend caliper swap with rotors made 4X100. Supposedly fits my Si set up.

    http://m.ebay.com/itm/EK-EG-DC-Civi...Caliper-Big-Brake-Kit-11-Rotors-/251541040416

    I'm thinking I can keep an eye out for these Legend calipers and find me a set of 11" rotors that fit my lug pattern.

    My rear brakes.....they are a small rotor and caliper but I'm thinking an upgrade would be best served in the front. My rear with be pretty stiff and locking up the rear scares me.

    Any opinions on proportion valve swaps?
     
  5. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    The very first thing is to figure out WHAT you will be racing in... then get a rule book for it. Are you doing this for HPDE? or real wheel to wheel?

    It would be stupid to build your self into non-competitive class because you did something that bumps you into 911 turbo class.
     
  6. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    That's true. I really need to look at the rules deeper. I have no clue what class or types of events. I didn't know they had restrictions on brakes.

    I am planning on starting slow and start by going on days they teach.

    For my brake options, I've muddled my way through various threads on various sites (google). My current plan is OEM parts. Front brakes will be '96 Prelude VTEC 11.1" rotors (re-drilled to 4X100) and ITR (single big piston) or Legend (dual piston) calipers.

    Looks like proportion valve can be increased to the 1" or stick with my stock Si valve. Smaller valve seems to mean more peddle travel to brake. Not sure what's best for my style and courses I'd drive on. I don't want to be locking brakes up and crash. I'll probably start with my stock valve and go from there.
     
  7. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    IMO,
    resurface your current rotors, slap on a set of hawk hp+ pads, and bleed it clear with some good smurf jizz http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...+Brake+Fluid&partNum=ATETYP200&cat=BrakeFluid fluid as a starting point.

    having better brakes may actually make you a 'worse' driver as a noob. you'll have the tendency to come in too hot, miss the line, and then try to make up for it over and over again instead of being smooth.

    once you actually figure out what you want to do as far as actual racing goes, things may change. Like, cages, fire safety, licenses, etc etc etc. @B16 is in your area, he can probably offer you best guidance around there.
     
    |Chaz| likes this.
  8. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    Thanks, B. I have brand new OEM pads and resurfaced when I K-swapped. I think I'll take your advise on Hawk pads soon after I burn through the new pads.
     
  9. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    The fluid is probably the most important thing I listed.
     
  10. |Chaz|

    |Chaz| Well-Known Member VIP

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    Hawk makes exceptional pads.
     
  11. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    Money spending....brakes are down on the list. Probably going to buy a trailer first. My dad and I are going in on one together.

    I also want a Sparco Evo II US seat and a Nardi suede steering wheel. Can't decide on the regular or deep corn wheel. That's almost $1200 :(
     
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