Building an ls

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Marky Mark

New Member
Hey everyone, i just joined this site but im not really a newb im on clubrsx, clubcivic,honda-tech, and clubeg6 as well.. im getting toward the point where its time to build a motor and im just trying to get a setup thats going to be perfect for my application.. im starting with a b18b1 block.. im going to turbo most likely using the T3/T04E from garrett.. im trying to get in the 300whp range.. I really want to do it right the first time so ive been saving up..1. i was wondering what pistons and cr is ideal for my setup.. 2. I really dont want to go as far as sleeving the block but if i absolutely have to i will. i just think that for my hp i wouldnt have to go that far. and also for the head i was thinkin p&p and some crower cams... If you have any suggestions whatsoever i thank you in advance. And i have been doing alot of research on this topic i just want to get a feel for my own application not everyone elses.. im sorry for writing a book lol
 
Blanco pretty much gave you most of the good advice. As far as sleeving, in reality you don't need them but if ya want something more reliable I would cause you never know if you will be wanted for hp in the future. If your gonna sleeve it go with 10:1 CP pistons and eagles are a lot of everyones beginner rods for racing IMO. If your not going to sleeve it and if ya want it safe just go 9:1 CP pistons. Now for the head, P&P sounds good but 3 Angle Valve Job is really a good trick for extra HP. You don't send the valves to a shop and grind 3 degrees off, you send the head to a machine shop to grind 3 degrees off the Seat or whatever its called. P&P would help a lot too cause everyone knows that the LS head Flows like @$$. If I remember right Crower is more for Cams and Skunk2 is more for the valves, springs and retainers. I dont know much about turbos so I can't help ya with what suits what.
Blanco has helped me start with my first build and its been about a year or so since I starting working on it. I have a LS block that was bored .020" with CP 9:1 Pistons Eagle Rods. The block was Cleaned and inspected. I tap and dyed all my nuts and bolts so accurate torque specs. I also used Standard ACL bearings but everyone says go Honda OEM for reliablility. Obviously the bearings make a big difference but after building a motor you wanna make sure your not gonna spin a bearing after start up. I'm 90% done assembling my short block and as far as my head goes, I wanna do 3 angle valve job, minor P&P and call it good for the head and boost like max of 15 psi for my goal which is 300hp. Good Luck with your build
 
yeah, thanks alot guys, im new to the turbo stuff myself.. ive just been debating alot lately.. the whole reason i bought my hatch was to do a k20 but money caught up to me and ive really wanted to do a turbo since i was like 16.. So i guess nows the time.. i probably will save up to sleeve the block just to be on the safe side... and do cp 10:1 pistons with eagle rods. then for the head crower cams and a p&p 3 angle valve job.. then ill be ready for the snail.. thanks alot.. if anyone else has any more ideas or advice or anything just post it.. thanks!
 
im doin an 91 ls turbo build now just waitin for the machine to finish so i can drop it in.
im gonna be runnin arias 9.1 pistons, eagle hbeams, block guard with a cometics headgasket an for the head im just din a basic clean an 3 angle valve job. im useing a t3/to4e turbo prolly around 10-12 psi. ive been told the build is more than sufficient to handle the 300whp range now im not to sure about the map sensor tho ive heard its good up to 12psi but so any help on that subject would help i have a blox map bypass valve just need to no wat to do wit it
 
hey djking do you know if I can still install a blockguard in my block with wrecking anything or ruining something cause I heard your suppose to install it before machine work and once its installed than you machine the deck to get flat surface when its installed. Cause my block is already assembled but I heard I don't wanna put one in now cause it can crack my sleeve or something like that???????
 
i dont no to much into that. my machinist told me it needed to be done before hand then again ive talked to some people at shops that say just drop it in but id take the word of a machinist anyday thats wat they do
 
Ya I read some further installation tips on that and the correct way to install them is heat the block than install the block guard, let it cool, machine the surface and hone the walls. I heard if ya try to install one after machining has been done to it that you could warp your cylinders and possible crack them.
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