1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Cam timing help!

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by kchief89, Jul 17, 2008.

  1. kchief89

    kchief89 New Member

    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2008
    Location:
    Coopersburg, PA
    I just finished swapping a d16z6 into my 95 Del sol. The z6 I got didnt come with a water pump, timing belt or crank pulley. Got a new water pump and timing belt off ebay. Reused the crank pulley from the old d16z6 I pulled out of my sol, and got one new woodruf key and the two special washers that go on either end of the crank sprocket. With everything on and all the timing marks lined up, go to start and it just turns over. Did a compression test and all 4 cylinders make 35-40 psi. I took the timing belt off again and re-aligned all the marks. With the no.1 piston at TDC (where the pointer on the plastic timing belt cover is in between the V and lined up with the mark on the crank pulley) and the two horizontal marks on the cam sprocket level with the cylinder head, the only mark that looks slightly off is the 3rd diagonal mark / on the cam sprocket. Ive done D series timing belts before and im 99% sure im not a tooth off. Still makes 35-40 psi. Is it possible the belt could be the wrong size and that im 1/2 -1/4 tooth off? Help!
     
  2. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

    Messages:
    388
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2008
    are you sure you're doing the compression test correctly? you know you have to keep cranking it till the gauge stops going up right? just making sure you know that, cause that low of compression usually means completely melted rings, burned and warped valves or badly blown headgaskets. good luck with your motor.
     
  3. kchief89

    kchief89 New Member

    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2008
    Location:
    Coopersburg, PA
    ok so it turns out the head had been milled, and that the stock cam gear was 90 or so degrees off.... still didnt hit any valves. Put the adjustible cam on and advanced it a degree at a time. Best I got was 100 psi on #1 (the rest were even worse) before i advanced it too far and nailed exhaust valves. This z6 was sooo F#*ked up to begin with. Oh well i only spent 100 bucks on this "legit motor". Good thing irony aluminum has gone up at the scrapyard, and yes the compression was done correctly.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2008
  4. Bkkfarang

    Bkkfarang New Member

    Messages:
    302
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2008
    Location:
    Bangkok and Shenzhen
    bad deal man , think you can that a 100 in scrap for it ?
     
  5. kchief89

    kchief89 New Member

    Messages:
    28
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2008
    Location:
    Coopersburg, PA
    Yea I could get 100 for the engine I pulled and this beat one. I cant realli explain why the stock cam gear was rotated 90 ish degrees counter clockwise in relation to the cam. The way it was set up with the UP mark it had the exhaust valves starting to open at TDC1 and at BDC1 the intake and exhaust were slightly open, this is where it should have been at TDC1... and TDC2 the Intake lobes werent fully closed yet. I should post pics to show how seriesly screwed this was, there was also a random red mark on the stock gear which I now think was sapposed to indicate the "new" TDC on the cam, because on my adjustable gear (which I know works becuse I had it on my previous car before I sold it) advanced 12 degrees, perfectly lined the lobes up with the red mark, and where I also got my best compression reading. I also had two d16z6 cams, using the one with the botched cam gear as a reference while my other one had the adjustble gear on it and installed in the engine.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2008
Verification:
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page