Civic VTi Idle Problem

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akolev

VTi Rider
Hello guys,

I have a problem with the idle on my Civic VTi 1999 sedan. The problem used to be RPM drop after revving, downto 200 and slow return to normal level. This was very frequent so I started to investigate this. Mechanics have cleaned the EACV two times but this didn't help, that's why I insisted on cleaning the throttle valve, and it was a big mess there. The RPM drop was fixed, but now I have a different problem - RPM jump :)

After revving RPM goes down to normal level and jumps above for a while then slowly returns. I think this appeared after first cleaning the EACV.

Any ideas?
 
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Hey man, sorry to see no one has any ideas. it still sounds like you need to bleed your coolant cuz air bubbles are interfering with the FITV. you did do that right?
 
Hello,

I was not very sure which is the bleeding screw so I went to the mechanic and asked them to change all the coolant directly :) This didn't lead to any change, RPM is jumping all the way round so far. From here I have two questions:

1) On this picture can you point me the bleeding screw?

2) On the other hand, can you also tell me when adjusting the throttle valve idle screw, what do I need to make the computer remember the new idle RPM, and not to try to restore the saved value. That's what I suspect was done on my car and I wonder is this really possible, do I shortcut some ECU wiring before that or just disconnect the EACV and adjust?

Regards,
Anton
 
hey man, sorry for the late response...but here, i hope this helps:

Teg Tip: Bad Idle Troubleshooting - Generation 2 Integra Clubâ„¢ Forum

Proper steps for adjusting idle (credit to 'D See 2')
1. Start car and let it warm up.
2. Unplug the IACV (yes, you'll get a CEL)
** It might stall so be preparred to give it some gas...
3. Adjust idle set screw until car is idling at 650 rpm.
4. Turn car off.
5. Plug in IACV and reset ECU to get rid of CEL.
6. Start car and make sure idle is where it needs to be. Go back and repeat if necessary to get desired idle.
 
FITV and EACV on my car are one single detail, 2 hoses and 2 controlling pins... Obviously the FITV part of it is fooling because, until completely warm the car doesn't have an idle problem. but first things first, I'm still looking for the bleeding screw :) Help!

P.S. Autodata 3.16 says for my car idle without EACV should be 450+-50, with EACV connected becomes 750+-50
 
Oh yeah, lol. here ya go. best pic I could find was my own...
 

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yo man. was at another honda site, saw a different idle set procedure, thought i'd post it up:

for anyone who wants to know how to do it, its very easy.

1 car off unplug the iacv
2 start the car,(it will get a cel for iacv, ignore it) it may die but keep restarting and eventually get it to idle.
3 it will idle low and rough but you need to check what the rpm is. with the throttle body screw adjust it so the idle is between 5-600rpm.
4turn off the car
5 pull the radio fuse to clear the iacv code you just had from having the sensor unplugged

now the idle is within spec of the iacv's ability to adjust it. by adjusting the base idle with the iacv disconnected your getting it into its range of operation so you dont max out its duty cycle.

now that the code is clear

6 turn on the car with absolutly no load, no ac, no lights no nothing
7 let it idle for at least a minute no more then a minute and a half
8 now turn on the headlights and let it idle for 1 minute
9 now turn off the headlights and turn on the a/c and let it idle for a minute
10 your done

if you think im joking go ask a tech at honda.
--------------------

taken from idling at 700 rpm - PreludeOnline.Com
 
ok, well now i need your help. i just got my car back from my mechanic, and i've got your rpm jump problem now. The rpm falls to normal level, then raises some, then drops back to normal. What'd you do to fix that?
 
Nothing so far. What did your mechanic do to the car?

Actually I'm going to take my car at the original Honda dealership at some later time.
 
Took my car to the official dealer, they did some checking cleaning and tuning and now it's fine. It behaves a little eratically only with A/C turned on, but I don't see this as much of a problem.
 
The problem was finally solved by replacing the distributor housing cap and its rotor :) EACV was not involved after all, although I replaced it as well while chasing the problem solution.
 
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