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code 7,9,14

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by dok, May 22, 2007.

  1. dok

    dok Senior Member

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    ok guys finshed the obd2 gsr swap but car is running fuuny and when i run my jdm p72 i get codes 7,9,14 but when i run my chipped p28 i get only code 9 what do you guys think it is:( :( :( :( :(
     
  2. dok

    dok Senior Member

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    must say i love hondaswap i found out what the codes are 7 is the tps, 14 is the eacv, 9 is crank angle senor what i don't understand is why i am getting code 9 if i am running a obd1 ecu i thought that senor was only used on obd2 cars my obd1 wire harness dosen't even have a plug for the crank angle senor its the senor by the timeing belt right i am not sure??? the eacv is the senor on the intake runner i think????? and the throttle anle senor is the one on the trottle body i think?????? please help i can't afford to drive my v8 explorer any more gas is crazy priced and i drive alot
     
  3. custompainter

    custompainter drive it like U stole it

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    SYNOPSIS

    This article describes how to trick a U.S. OBD2a or OBD2b ecu into thinking a CKF sensor is wired in when there actually is no CKF sensor on the engine.

    What is the CKF sensor?
    The CKF is the Crank Fluctuation Sensor.
    On all 96+ (OBD2) Honda/Acura vehicles, this sensor is integrated onto the oil pump.
    (CKF images soon)

    This trick is mainly aimed to help hybriders who are using a U.S. OBD2a/b ecu in their vehicle, but their motors are lacking a CKF sensor. For example, running an JDM OBD2 engine in a US 96+ vehicle but retaining the US OBD2 ecu. For those that don't know, when using a US OBD2 ecu and the CKF sensor is not wired in, the engine runs like total crap. This trick basically taps the CKF into the CKP signal.

    This wire trick will save you money (around $300) and headaches!

    PROCEDURE


    1. Please refer to the ecu pin out page respective to your OBD2 type and take note of the CKF pin locations:
      OBD2a pin out schematics
      OBD2b pin out schematics
    2. Get 4 Scotch-lock/tap splicers
      Sometimes dubbed 'quick splice', these can be real life savers.
      Get yourself 2 of these bad boys and a pair of pliers for the squeezing-splicing portion of the job.

      [​IMG]
    3. Locate ECU pins

      OBD2a Users:
      This mod requires you to quick splice a total of 4 wires (2 wires per quick splice).
      Locate the blue ecu plug "C":
      [​IMG]
      Now locate pinout C1 (CKFP) and C4 (CYPP) ; using the pliers quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
      [​IMG] [​IMG]
      Then locate pin C11 (CKFM) and C14 (CYPM) and quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
      [​IMG] [​IMG]
      That's it!
      Your finished OBD2a quick-splice job should look something like this:
      [​IMG]

      OBD2b Users:
      This mod requires you to quick splice a total of 4 wires (2 wires per quick splice).
      Locate the blue ecu plug "C":
      [​IMG]
      Now locate pinout C22 (CKFP) and C29 (CYPP) ; using the pliers quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
      [​IMG] [​IMG]
      Then locate pin C30 (CYPM) and C31 (CKFM); quick-splice these two wires together as shown:
      [​IMG] [​IMG]
      That's it!
      Your finished OBD2b quick-splice job should look something like this:
      [​IMG]
    ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

    None. CONTRIBUTIONS / PROPS


    Special thanks to THIS THREAD on Honda-tech and to the poster omahaturbocivic who exploited this trick!!!
    The information in this article applies to:

    • All US 96-00 civics & 96-01 integra's
     
  4. dok

    dok Senior Member

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    thats a bad ass trick man
     
  5. dok

    dok Senior Member

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    the thing is i have a obd1 car and i am useing a obd1 p72 jdm and i don't know why the car is trowing that code and the car runs like shit
     
  6. custompainter

    custompainter drive it like U stole it

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    your car is set up with a jdm setup not usdm so your probly programmed for one try this trick and see what happens
     
  7. dok

    dok Senior Member

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    i changed the dizzy the code went away but i still gat code 14 and no signal or power in the senor and i had ro move the dizzy all the way back to get the car to ideal at 1000 rpm if not the car will ideal at like 100 or 200 if the dizzy is in the middle the car runs good but i can't stand a check engine light please help
     
  8. onesikdb8

    onesikdb8 Member

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    Have you tried replacing the IACV with a known working one?
     
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