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Compression result qs?

Discussion in 'General Tech and Maintenance' started by 96civyhb, May 5, 2004.

  1. 96civyhb

    96civyhb Member

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    Ok so I had another thread about this. Basically when I try to start my car it wont turn over and stay running. If I hold the key to start you can hear it crank and after about 7 cranks it will start but then die immediately and go back to cranking. SO last night I checked the plugs and they seemed ok and I check the compression. I found these results from left to right 80,70,40,110 . This is the stock d series non vtec motor. Does anyone have any ideas what the problem is. I know a guy who will sell me just a new head for 100 bucks. I also know a guy with a full motor that I could swap in for 450. Do you guys have any guidance. I just want to spend the least money I can right now so I can save for my motor swap in a few months. Im looking for greatness I just want to be able to daily drive it for a couple months.
     
  2. Arachnid

    Arachnid Senior Member

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    when did all of this start happening and what did you do to it before that started happening? have you done a leak down and compression test. it'll tell you alot. there are some forums on how to do a leak down and compression test. just type it up in the search or google it up.

    is there white smoke or anything bad coming from the exhaust? if so headgasket, anyways your results show that it might be a blown headgasket and you're buring up something that's not supposed to be in your cylinders (oil and coolent). plus the lower compresion in pistons 4,3,and 2 can only really mean one thing...blown head gasket between all three cylinders. that would result in your motor not even running (running on one cylinder won't get your engine started).
     
  3. 96civyhb

    96civyhb Member

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    Ok well thanks. i was just wondering if this is usually beause of something specific. I dont notice a lot of smoke and the compression just seems to want to tell me that there is a head gasket problem or maybe bent valves in the one with very low compression. I hope that what it is because I am going to pull the head tomm and take a look. if its a blow head gasket what should I see???
     
  4. Arachnid

    Arachnid Senior Member

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    i can't say, cause i had a blown headgasket, took off my head and found nothing that the naked eye could see, and yet there was milky stuff on my oil cap. once i replaced the head gasket the milky stuff was gone.

    my friend did a mini-me on his d15b7 and bent 4 valves cause his noob ass wouldn't listen to me about belt timing. and his car would just crank but no running engine. plus it did try to start but died right away when my friend released the key.

    but hey....why not just change the headgasket for about 40 bucks and see if that solves your problem. it just might be worth it!
     
  5. 96civyhb

    96civyhb Member

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    Ok well I want to cahnge the head gasket and try that but what do I need to know about belt belt timing? I have never really worked with timing. i mean I looked at the haynes manual but all it really said was to line up the marks on the crank and the block and then the marks on the camshaft that say up......I dont want to bend valves as I really just want to get this peicer motor running till I can buy a swap like above. It just needs to last a few thousand mile. What else do I need to do???
     
  6. Arachnid

    Arachnid Senior Member

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    geez, i was talking with my friend and they said that it may be worn piston rings or valve seals. in both cases you'll need to be familiar with engines to fix them.

    this is done with the timing belt off(belt on the camgear)
    the head gasket and timing on the other hand is a tad more easier. on the camgear (camshaft gear/sprocket) there is an "up" on it. it literally says up. and then their are two marks on the sides of the camgear, each 90 degrees from that "up" sign. you align those with the top of the cylinder head. note: take valve cover off. then you make sure they're perfectly aligned by runnin' a ruler or something straight from your head to the gear. i.e. you lay the ruler on the head horizontally to see if the top of the head aligns with the two markers on each side of the camgear.

    for the crankpulley: there should be 3 lines/markers on the crank pulley. and then there is the fourth one that is about 1 centimeter or so to the right of the three other markers. by looking down there should be something like a v shape that comes from the tan plastic cover. you get a flash light.... start moving the crank pulley by pulling on the belt that was on your camgear. by looking directly down you make sure that the fourth marker on the crankshaft is in the middle of that v shaped thing.

    now. without moving the crankshaft slip the belt onto the camgear (do not let either camgear or crankshaft move) if the belt is too tight do not use a screw driver to move push the belt up. simply put a part of the belt onto the right side of the camgear. the sprockets should go in a little bit. next use a socket and slip that into the bolt on the camgear and turn the camgear counterclockwise. at the same time not letting the sprockets from the camgear and belt move from their spot.

    all this is done with the end user knowing about torquing their cylinder head properly and after replacement of the gasket. anymore questions just ask me. i'll try to help as much as to my knowledge. note: two personell should be used to do a head gasket, as when you take that off it is pretty heavy and mass oil is loss. buy more oil and coolent. coolent is lost too.
     
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