Cranks?

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94Civintegra

Member
Hey guys...
I was wondering what kind of gains people have seen from a new crank in their block...
Anyone heard of a 383 stroker? I was thinking of doing something like that to a b20b4 block...
Im not interested much in HP, just TQ... 1/4 mile is what I care for.

A 383 stroker is a 350 with what I believe is a 400 crank in it.

Could somebody explain to me how to get more low end torque? Please say a little more than, longer stoke is more torque... please explain to my WHY it is... so then I can try to figure out the way to get the most low end torque...

I dont care if my car goes 103mph or 203mph ... as long as the 1/4 mile is faster

somebody please explain bore and stroke and compression sizes and how they affect the torque of the car.

Thank you SO MUCH... this is my biggest question about engines.
 
well putting in a stroker for ultra high torque in a honda is stupid. not trying to diss you or anything but hondas are build for revs, as you may have noticed they arent the biggest thing in the world.

longer stroke=more torque b/c MORE DISPLACEMENT. formula for displacement is S*pi(B/2)², where S=Stroke and B=Bore.

put mad low end in a honda and youll never have traction.
 
then whats a good thing to look for? I understand the traction thing. I think I will look for cars that are getting like 12's and 11's and copy them or something... I dont know.
 
with a honda you just want to create a good rod to stroke ratio. at least 1.5 or better.

increasing displacement adds both more torque and horsepower. you can add displacement by stroking the motor, or by boring the motor. each way has its advantages and disadvatages.

boring = thinner cylinder walls and more cylinder oscillation(also usually adds more horsepower than torque)

stroking = worse rod to stroke ratio and more pressure on the cylinder walls(usually adds more torque than horsepower)

with a honda you want the r/s as good as you can get it so you can maintain high revs so the best thing to do for it is to bore the cylinders. if you don't take it too far you can add displacement and not really cause any poroblems with the cylinder wall thickness.



Now you said you were after low end torque... i want to know why? you don't really need it, i mean look at how much torque a crotch rocket makes----> never more than 60 lb/ft and you can still get 12's out of one easy.

its the same with a honda... its becasue of the weight you don't need a lot of torque to get it to move. producing high torque low in the rpm band will cause you two problems, one is traction, and two is running out of power on top where you need it.

you should really be trying for a high horsepower number along with high revs----> around 8200-9000 is more than enough. thats what your goal should be becasue your car is light and will have bad traction problems becasue it is FF. rear drive cars can have all the torque they want becasue of the weight transfer onto their power wheels.

when a car with a FF setup launches all of its weight is taken off its power wheels so traction loss occurs.
 
Lots of partially correct information in this thread without "seeing the whole picture"... but I don't want to type anymore tonight. Will post more later...
 
First of all, the B20 has the same crank as an LS, which is the LONGEST stroke B series crank available.

The D16 has a longer stroke, but the crank will not bolt into a B series block.

Eagle Specialties has Stroker cranks made and available, but you will need custom pistons, and/or rods, which are available from Eagle as well, to use this crank.

Need any more info? Let me know.
 
d17 has a stroke of 94.4, whereas the d16 is 90, but the size of the journals are bigger or smaller, i forget.. so it wont just drop into a d16/d15.. and it wont go into a b-series.
 
so how do I found out the R/S ratio... and how do I know which one is going to be the fastest for 1/4 mile? And how do I know where I want the torque and when? This is all stuff I want to figure out before I build a motor.

Thank you
 
you divide the rod length by the stroke length to find out your r/s.
 
I know this going to be unpopular, but I will say it any how. Make the engine as big as possible. Rod Stroke ratio is overrated to a point. Think about it. Build a b16 as much as you can and build b18c as much as you can and put them in the same car, which motor do you think will be faster? B18c will always win.
I have done them both. And yes bigger is almost always better.
 
hondas arent built for very large displacement, so they use another method...revs. stroking the motor till you have a very low r/s ratio means you cant rev as high, which is bad. youre cylinders might go from circular to oval.
 
Originally posted by no2psi@Apr 12 2003, 09:33 PM
I know this going to be unpopular, but I will say it any how. Make the engine as big as possible. Rod Stroke ratio is overrated to a point. Think about it. Build a b16 as much as you can and build b18c as much as you can and put them in the same car, which motor do you think will be faster? B18c will always win.
I have done them both. And yes bigger is almost always better.
Click to expand...

look at it this way...build a b16 for high-end torque, say you peak torque of 120lbs@9500rpm. build a b18c with high-end torque also, but lower rev limit b/c of r/s. lets use max torque of 130lbs@8700. the b16 would have a max hp of 217hp, while the b18c will have a max hp of 215hp. pretty close huh. large displacement engines has the most advantage in low-end power. but if your car is light but doesnt gain traction that well, it will work against you. if you can create a large displacement motor with a very good r/s ratio, that would be the best thing, but it will also be much larger. i prefer boring the motor vs. stroking it.
 
blah-mutherfuckin-blah.... all of you bitches talkin' 'bout r/s ratio. no2psi is right. stroker kits are the shit. sleeve it and stroke it, you will have no problem with deformed cylinders. build your engine right and you'll rev to 9K+ w/ no problem.
 
OK, I know this would start some drama. I will say it again. The bigger the better. Just ask your mom. B) Kidding.
I am saying this from experience. I have built both types. Both going in a car that weighs 1700 with driver.
I didnt say that Rod Stroke ratio isnt important, I just think people read to much BS on the internet. Without trying it themselves. I am not saying stroking is better than boreing. I am saying do both. Bigger bore and bigger stroke = a bigger motor. You can only have 86mm bore on a b series motor any ways which limits you displacement. Does any one really think you can make a build a b16 that make more power than a h22? Get real. "94Civintegra"
just wants to race. "Erick Agular" didnt run 10.1 until he went to a 95 mm stroke. Bisi didnt run 10.2 until he got atleast a 2.2 liter motor. One last thing I ran 11.2 @ 120 with a LS/VTEC All motor. That a friend of mine and I built.
And the rod stroke on that motor blows! But its a 2 liter motor. Again he wants to drag race.
 
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