Well, I've stumbled into a problem with my cv boot on the right side of the car, and it being cracked. The joint isn't clicking yet but I've talked to a few people and they've told me to replace the whole joint, not just the boot. It has with stood over 5k mi's ripped and I never thought the wiser but would like to get it fixed. My question is should I just try to put a new boot on or replace the whole joint. I'm not to familiar with the whole front wheel drive thing when it comes to trans down, so to speak. I did attempt to price the joint at autozone, but they said that it was a half shaft. What does that mean, its the joint or the whole setup with both joints and such. Also should I have to replace both axles at the same time or would it be ok? Thanks -Gary
CV boots?
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GSRCIVICTN
Lost in a sea of rednecks
They are probably a little closer to $75, but the good thing is if you usually get a lifetime warranty on those things from Autojunk. It's also easier to do than replacing the boot.
usually runs 60 for a rebuilt one, and 80 for brand new. thats the whole axle.
Well I want to make sure that they are going to last because I know this car will be taking many 500 mi trips and don't need to break down and not to mention destroy my car. I also down the road would like them to hold up to a light turbo setup. Which I'm not looking at pushing more than 6-8 lbs of boost at any time. But my main concern now would be to get the main. done so that I have reliable transportation with out worries. So where do you all recommend getting the axle from, I've got a choice of auto zone, napa, and advance auto. I know everyone recommends Honda, which I will be checking prices, but I know from there, my buddy can get me it shop price so. Its going to be one of them more than likely unless I see otherwise, because last time I priced axles from Honda, it was for my 87 Prelude Si and they wanted 200+ per axle and such so. Thanks for the answers so far tho. -Gary
i just get mine from autozone. if you can get them at cost from honda then by all means go for it.
GSRCIVICTN
Lost in a sea of rednecks
As much as Autojunk does suck on a lot of their parts, I must say that the CV axles seem to hold up okay. O'Reilys' I feel are better. The boots don't seem to dry rot and crack as easily. Too bad that wasn't one of your choices. Napa typically has better parts than your other two choices.
eh, as long as theres a warranty tagged to it, it dont matter to me. its only about a 30 minute job to replace. just dont get them off ebay and you'll be fine.
I forgot about O'Reily's. I just found that we have one about 30 minutes away max. I'll price around and see what I could get. If its cheap enough, I might go ahead and drop both and such since I'd have the fluid dropped out and if its a 30 minute job then it shouldn't take too long. Plus I need to replace the stupid axle seals again because the shop must have done a pretty crappy job when they did it because it looks like they are leaking again. -Gary
GSRCIVICTN
Lost in a sea of rednecks
Typically you don't lose any fluid doing the axles. You'll lose a little when you do the seals. If you have to do both seals go ahead and do both axles if they are just as old, unless money is tight.
Well depends on price of parts. If cheap enough for my poor blood then I'm going to do both axles since they have a 180K that I'm aware of and the seals weren't put in right or just junk. But according to the book, it says I need to drain the fluid. Also says I need to drop the ball joint? Isn't there enough room to drop the whole thing out? And will I have to pack the new axles or should it come pre-packed? -Gary
GSRCIVICTN
Lost in a sea of rednecks
You don't need to drain the fluid. You'll lose just a little when doing the seals. Be sure to top off afterwards. You can disconnect the lower or upper ball joint. Or do both. That way makes fighting with the axle easier. Quickest way would probably be the lower by itself. Sometimes putting the nut back on the joint is a bitch because the joint wants to spin with the nut. Have a big pair of channel locks handy to squeeze the lower control arm and the spindle together while you tighten the nut. One of the two at least has to come loose. Axle won't come out of the hub, otherwise. The new axle will have grease in it.
its easier to undo the ball joints on the upper control arm and the steering. that way all you have to do is pull down and over on the spindle and slide the axle right out.
and get a small prybar to seperate the axle from the tranny after you get it out of the spindle, most people just tug and pull til it comes free but the pry bar is easier. its too hot to sweat more than you have to.
make sure that your careful when you put the axle seals in, theyre easy to fuck up.
and you may have to unbolt the bottom of the strut tower, the axle goes through that and it may not fit to pull straight out. b- series axle wont. not sure about d series though.
if your slow then it'll probly take you a while longer than 30 min. but its still an easy process.
and get a small prybar to seperate the axle from the tranny after you get it out of the spindle, most people just tug and pull til it comes free but the pry bar is easier. its too hot to sweat more than you have to.
make sure that your careful when you put the axle seals in, theyre easy to fuck up.
and you may have to unbolt the bottom of the strut tower, the axle goes through that and it may not fit to pull straight out. b- series axle wont. not sure about d series though.
if your slow then it'll probly take you a while longer than 30 min. but its still an easy process.
GSRCIVICTN
Lost in a sea of rednecks
Strut has to be unbolted. +1 on the prybar. Wouldn't even waste time without one.
