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Cylinder head gasket question

Discussion in 'Civic and CRX - EF' started by Speed Box, Mar 26, 2007.

  1. Speed Box

    Speed Box New Member

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    I just want to start, this is a great forum with lots of smart users, much props.

    I have 89 honda civic si. Car is stock except for lowering springs. I have about 220k on a stock d16a6. I resently notice gunk (oil?) build up in my coolant reservoir tank and under radiator cap. Ok so, head gasket is probably busted. Right ?

    Head could also be warped, cracked, I so hope not thou ( car was not over heated).

    I was thinking of pulling the head and changing the head gasket over the weekend. Ok my question is are gaskets from auto parts store ok to use other than OEM? price wize they are 1/3 the price than OEM. I just heard OEM is best etc. etc.

    2nd question. To clean up all the gunk I heard that its possible to use Shout ( laundry detergent ) instead of coolant for like 30 min (running) and then flush it. It cleans up cooling system so oil dont mess up the hoses.

    And also is it mandatory to resurface it?
     
  2. mikey bottles

    mikey bottles Prof. Bottles

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    yea sounds like the head gasket is bad... the coolant looks like a thick milkshake right? at the shop i work at we use aftermarket gasket sets so yea your fine using aftermarket gaskets. and to flush your cooling system id recommend the prestone flush kit.. its really easy to use and really effective. its not mandatory to resurface it but its a really good idea to at least get it checked.. especially due to the mileage. its also a good idea to change the thermostat while you have it out, especially with the coolant the way it is
     
  3. Speed Box

    Speed Box New Member

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    MB I'll definately use the prestone kit then, and good call on the thermostat. I pulled radiator cap and took some photos on my phone (low res). I'm guessing you know what you're talking about.

    I had b18a1 just motor no trans for like a day and sold it the next after i checked hasport mount prices and they are a grip + also needed new flywheel and clutch. I just want to take this motor till 300k for kicks.
     

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  4. mikey bottles

    mikey bottles Prof. Bottles

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    yea i really cant tell a whole lot from those pics.. but usually when you get oil in your coolant or vice versa it looks really sludgy.. usually turns into like a thick tannish sludge depending on how bad the leak is. your local pep boys or autozone or whatever should have all the parts in stock to do that. if your really not sure if its the head gasket.. and dont know how to check it yourself then go to a local shop and have them verify it.. then do it yourself. Another thing you might wanna do after the head gasket too is find someone like Pep Boys that does the Gumout Engine FLush and get that done.. that way you dont have any of that sludge left in the engine. hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2007
  5. Periculum

    Periculum Senior Member

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    I agree fully with the flush. I replaced my headgasket on my 91 HF only to have it continue overheating after all was said and done. The overheating was due to the bad circulation or blockage from the oil/coolant mix. After the flush, there were no more cooling issues.

    Changing your water pump wouldnt be a bad idea either. One year after I did my head gasket, my water pump began to leak. 20 bucks and youll have the timing belt off anyway.
     
  6. mikey bottles

    mikey bottles Prof. Bottles

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    i agree doing the water pump is a good idea as well... if your really gonna go that far into it.. you can do a headgasket without removing the timing belt.... but again.. due to the mileage... it cant hurt. the only thing is.. getting that crank bolt out can be quite a hassle... i had to heat mine with an oxy acetilyne torch.. then it came right out:D
     
  7. Speed Box

    Speed Box New Member

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    Thanks for everyones input on this.

    I haven't done anything like that before, but I have a general idea of what needs to be done and also got the manual + the tech write ups on hondaswap are sick!!!

    Are there any special tools I need? Cuz I got basic socket set (4.5mm - 19mm) different brands some 'snap-on'. Ratchets 3/8 and 1/2 also a Torque ratchet (Breaker) to set different lbs. I'll gather all the parts on friday night ( head gasket, thermostat, waterpump, timing belt - if needed, crate of oil, honda coolant and flush- I'll check different ones and such) And sat. morning swap out the parts.

    Not to get off the subject if anyone has problems passing smog most likely its the TPS sensor on the throttle body. Just get a new/used TB and it should pass.
     
  8. Speed Box

    Speed Box New Member

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    Yeah I'll definately get Gasket scraper and remover. Now, from what I understand d16y8 is a 96-00 civic gasket. Will it fit stock ef block without problems? And also if anyone knows where to get those ARP head bolts? Auto parts store pepboys kragen don't have anything like that they don't have stock ones in stock either. I just want to get the parts and not wait for them to get it in x number of business days.
     
  9. Speed Box

    Speed Box New Member

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    When using Y8 gasket ( it costs like 20 bucks more) are the torque specs will be the same? Its 22 lbs step1 and 49 lbs step 2.

    And is it really a must for new head bolts(I'll find out $$$ from honda tomorrow)? Can a die be used to remove corrosion?

    Also there is a good writeup on head gasket for d motors in the tech section. my question do you have to remove spark plugs to set motor Top Dead Center?
     
    Last edited: Mar 28, 2007
  10. mikey bottles

    mikey bottles Prof. Bottles

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    honda head bolts are not Torque-To-Yield style bolts, so no replacement is not necessary, if your going to change them, spend the money and use the studs, otherwise you can use the originals.
     
  11. Speed Box

    Speed Box New Member

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    Good points from both sides. If I was building something like lsvtec then ARP would definately come into play. W/b18 I just want to have an excuse to sport fat 5s, not on a stoker thou (just my opinion!).

    My main problem and concern is Top Dead Center and timing belt change (might as well while at it). Whats the most simple way?

    Pull #1 spark plug, then put something in there, turn the crank till its at the highest point, remove valve cover then cam cover and check the markings on the cam. Right?

    Other method is take off distributor cap, mark something, turn the crank ( well its in the manual)

    I was thinking something like wd40 for the crank bolt. Or something of that nature that I'll search for in a hardware store as well as carpenters T.

    I'll assemble a parts shopping list when I'm a bit more sober.
     
  12. Speed Box

    Speed Box New Member

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    what are the torque specs for a d16a6 with d16y8 gasket?

    right now its -

    22,49 haynes manual

    20, 45, 60 Blanco recomendation

    22, 47 in a book about torque specs

    whats the best to use?
     
  13. mikey bottles

    mikey bottles Prof. Bottles

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    ive always used the 2 stage torque process in the haynes manual.. but blanco seems to be very knowledgable so id go with his recommendation.
     
  14. mikey bottles

    mikey bottles Prof. Bottles

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    yea the factory setting for the a6 is 49, and the z6 is 53
     
  15. Speed Box

    Speed Box New Member

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    Well as of right now my car is non-operational. Ok, 2 head bolts were snapped at 20 lb setting on first round( same bolts were used). Thats not good but its ok.

    Now for some reason it seemed like a good idea to just mark the cam and timing belt at the dashes on the timing belt, instead of setting tdc. Because technically belt will not move and the head will be in the same place. Teeth will match the cam etc. etc.

    Well, car won't start because timing is off, possible. There is fuel there is spark. So I need to get a timing gun.

    Also for some reason bolt for the oil pan got stripped. No clue how it happened. Now you can't tight it or untight it. Its just there. Don't drink like 10 beers and try to change a head gasket. Also there were no need to take crank pulley bolt, just exaust manifold and it comes off

    So, does anyone know any tricks to get busted head bolts out of a block?

    I also think that setting timing will be a problem.
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2007
  16. Speed Box

    Speed Box New Member

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    My plan is to pull the motor ( hoist) , drain everything (probably the other way around) , clean everything spotless take it to a machine shop that takes them out - whole bottom end

    Because 2 bolts broke at 1/2 thread others were cool. And oil pan bolt (replaced oil pan on integra mad bolts to take out thou.)

    I need major tools; my set is cazt, I guess - 1 extension broke, 1 ratchet, one socket spread apart the other one got stripped on inside.

    This motor will click 300k or 500k. Honda better give me a new fit or something.
     
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