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D15 vtech starts but sounds off???? PLEASE HELP

Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by Andystopa, Jan 30, 2008.

  1. Andystopa

    Andystopa New Member

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    I have a 95 civic dx with 1.5 nonvtec. blow motor. Replaced the whole motor with 1.5 vtech.It turns on but its idiling inbetween 1 and 2 thousond rpms. All I have Gotten for the new motor is an si distibutor and it siunds a little better now But not sure.

    The question is can I still run my vtec motor with the NONvtec wiring harnes and/or chip (p08 I believe I need to get a p28 for the vtec) or do I NEED to get a new wiring harness and ecu chip for it to run, not just crack vtec?? Please help. :)
     
  2. 93civicracer

    93civicracer Oh, I do a little here and there.

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    You need to run the vtec wires yourself from the solenoid and pressure switch thru the firewall to the ecu pins. And you need a vtec ecu. If you have the d15b vtec motor you can use either the p08 or the p28 ecu, I'm running a p08 in my swap without problems. Or at least not ecu-related problems...lol.

    Rywire sells a vtec subharness to make things easier.
     
  3. Andystopa

    Andystopa New Member

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    So what your saying is I can leave my p08 there? Well atleast I think thats whats in already had in for my nonvtec motor........does that make senses? or doe the nonvtec run off of something eles? .....But then just make sure all the solenoids are hooked up right?
     
  4. Andystopa

    Andystopa New Member

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    Oh ok I think I have a p06 my bad. So Can I just get a p08 or p28 to atleast run my car? and then need the subharness for the vtec to actaully work? Because I'm just trying to get it on the road for right now lol, dont really care about vtec. I'm gonna take it to a tunning place for the vtec to work after I get it up and running. But So I NEED p08 or p28 and she should work? to altleast get it on the road with no vtec?
     
  5. 93civicracer

    93civicracer Oh, I do a little here and there.

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    The p06 ecu should run the motor fine without vtec if it's the d15b7 ecu. But yes, you should have a p08 or a p28 chipped to run p08 maps. You can't really get much better than what was originally meant for the motor, the p08.
     
  6. Andystopa

    Andystopa New Member

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    ok. that makes senses but I think I might have found the problem. I have a vtec throttle body I put on and its a p08 throttle body And it didn't come with the tp senor (tps) so I took the old one off my nonvtec motor and but that on my p08 throttle body. May that be the reason its idealing? do I need a Vtec tps? Is there even such thing "vtec tps"? And for my throttle body in general, since its a p08 throttle body do I need the p08 ecu, or can I use p28, or can I even use my nonvtec p06? You know just to get it up and on the road.


    Please help again? thank already for the info. Much appriecated. I'm new to this whole honda scene if you havn't noticed yet. :)
     
  7. 93civicracer

    93civicracer Oh, I do a little here and there.

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    To be honest...I haven't solved that problem with my swap yet either. I swapped from d15b7 to d15b vtec and here's what I did. I used the IM from the D15B VTEC, and the old throttle body so that means I used the MAP sensor from the firewall, and the new TPS on the throttle body. But to use the new intake manifold you have to cut some of the vacuum lines and use T- or Y-brackets to seal off the vacuum. Also the intake manifold from the d15b vtec doesn't have the purge solenoid, so if you use it you gotta watch out for emissions. They don't test where I'm from but they might by you.

    So I used new intake manifold, old throttle body and MAP sensor on the firewall. Reason I used old throttle body is because the new one doesn't have a vacuum outlet on top.

    And I could NOT get it running right with the p06 for some reason, even though it's said to work with the motor. So I just hooked up a p08 that I bought with the motor and voila!

    But I'm STILL having idle problems. On mine the idle is a little rough and it's around 1,000 rpm, then you can rev it up normally til you hit 1500, and when you rev harder it knocks harder, then you can continue revving normally all the way to redline.

    And Vtec has NOTHING to do with either of those sensors. It affects NOTHING except vtec sensors located from the vtec solenoid next to the head.
     
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