D15B JDM swap into 97 DX Ignition Timing

[f22b1 coupe]

Alright, so I have an issue with a JDM block and head I swapped into a 97 Civic DX, originally D16y7. I used the same intake manifold and exhaust manifold, all sensors, distributor, ECU, everything from the original engine. I used a timing light and got the idle dead on at TDC, and when I rev the engine it runs solid all the way to redline- except for takeoff. It is SLOW. REALLY slow. As in, put the pedal on the floor and for the first few seconds its like you got out and pushed the car, then as soon as it is going a little it winds out like a race engine again. Any ideas? Btw, when I first bump the throttle body while shining timing light on the pulley, it drops back and is retarded for a second, then revs up and advances into the range it is supposed to (the three marks on the crank pulley). Any ideas anyone?

 

[f22b1 coupe]

I suppose my new question is this: Is there any difference whatsoever in the head and block from the JDM engine vs the USDM? They were both identical by my book, but that doesn't mean the crank or cam couldn't be different.

 

[f22b1 coupe]

Could it be the catalytic converter? A frind just suggested that may be it, and since the old engine was run out of oil (and subsequently got very hot) I could see that ruining the cat, it already has a cracked manifold around the O2 sensor so it could stand to be replaced anyway- so on those all in one cat/manifold combos does anyone know if when they go out if they make the car bog on low end but not on high? And could running the car extraordinarily hot do that?

 

[f22b1 coupe]

Ha, well, the girl I did the swap for is stranded on the side of the road with it now, she said it wont start back up now, it bogged and bogged and bogged and shut off and it wont restart- either the cat took a huge dump, or its not getting spark/fuel entirely now. I guess this will accelerate the rate at which I find my answer. FYI everyone, if you don't own a timing light, buy one, it's the greatest thing ever- I went without one for 5 years now, and I just figured out that its a great instant way to check for spark without having to pull a plug and ground it on the body- on top of its actual intended purpose

 

[f22b1 coupe]

Still firing, I used the timing light to verify it still has spark, so its either fuel (most likely the filter)... or a clogged cat. I'll know when they get it towed back, standing on the side of the interstate was not something I wanna do again, and that's coming from someone who did roadside assistance for a living for awhile.

 

[krazykid711]

hey tell me what you find out i got mine timed and it is doing the same thing yours is.

 

[f22b1 coupe]

You can read my post in the 92-00 civic subforum, its running too rich I deduced, I am trying to figure out if my O2 sensor code is related (it was there before and it ran fine) or if one of the other sensors is the problem. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and nothing man. just follow my threads, I am going to be on this until it is resolved.

 

[krazykid711]

ok i will definitely do that, and i have been researching and there has been couple of people saying that it is the o2 sensor so i think im going to change mine and i will let you know how it turns out

 

[f22b1 coupe]

okay please do, thanks!

 

[f22b1 coupe]

pulled the exhaust manifold back from the head and cranked it (not as loud as i expected running open head)- and it still won't start. So I am leaning more toward it being a a sensor of some sort making it run rich than exhaust obstruction. Since no one here seems to know much about this problem it looks like I will be going to my local dealer tomorrow to speak with a tech.

 

[90rs]

Hey i have a question im a new member on here and i own a 90 integra rs. And im having a issue wit smoke comin out of tha tail pipe and my wipe is burnin oil alot. can anyone help with this issue?
what could it be? HELP!

 

[krazykid711]

F22 if you do go to the dealer can yo tell me what they say thanks.
90rs If your burning oil the only thing i could think of is it could either be your piston rings or your valve seals. So you should probably get your compression checked and if one of the cylinders isn't right then it is your rings, but you should try starting your own thread and you might get more replys.

 

[f22b1 coupe]

Well I got it running again but it still has absolutely no low end power- and every time I use the timing light to move the distributor the ECU compensates for timing, so it seems like it's not that manually adjustable. The dealer gave me a hard F you, well, that particular technician named Ben at Penske Honda in Indianapolis did. I've had good techs and bad and despite walking out of the parts department with an arm full of overpriced dealer parts, he still treated my like I was being a freeloader for wanting a couple of minutes of his time, he directed me to set up an appointment for a minimum of $93 to diagnose it- no thanks.

Well I cleared the codes once I got it running and it only shows "Manufacturer Ignition Control malfunction or cylinder misfire" so I am going to have the ignition module tested for kicks, can't imagine it being off on the low end and not on the high, wtf? I'm not even sure what that code generally indicates.

 

[f22b1 coupe]

I've done some research and the P1336 code seem to be related to the crank sensor (sonovabitch) or the distributor sensors/pickups built into the housing. I have a spare distributor, as fate would have it, so I am going to try it tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I will try the crank sensor (sonovabitch) since it is only $26 at auto zone. If that didn't fix it and I tore it down to the timing belt and shit I'd be royally pissed. I swear that distributor better be toast, I did the gosh damn timing belt while I had the engine on the ground and I swapped the crank sensor over from the old engine- if I replaced everything behind the cover EXCEPT the one thing that was bad, I will from now on, with every timing belt job, replace that damn sensor.