hey guys i'm getting a 91 civic dx (free) with the d15b2. the head has a burnt valve and i happen to have a d16y7 engine with a good head but the bottom end knocks. my question is i am using the dual point efi and the distributor out of the b2. if i use the y7 head will i need to swap cams? and will i see a decrease in performance by using the y7 head with the stock b2 stuff. thanks
d15b2 to d16y7 head swap
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phoenixdeathriders
New Member
im going to be using the same set up but mltipont manifold for more power and no you should keep the cam from what i hear it gives more hp
GlassHeadlights
West West Yall
I believe everything will bolt up, but ask someone to see what cam and cam gear to use. It will be a power upgrade, but only slighty because of the Dual Point fuel injection.
SnakePliscan
New Member
The D15b2 block i mention here is a 90 were the D16y7 head is a 00.
You can't swap cams even with the help of a genie, the layout up top is way different, that said the Y7 has a better cam profile taller valve springs better valve angles a 3/4 point compression boost with flat tops and ports for torque so ya baby fly with it.
The most significant and never mentioned difference between the b2 and y7 head is cam location, the y7 cam is moved back on the head some 2 1/2 inch's hence the spark plug tubes being relocated to the front of the head.
This to is the never mentioned reason for the requirement of the shorter 103 tooth VX belt, cam to crank center height only drops 0.050" with a b2 head gasket.
This cam position shift does change timing, it retards the cam about 1 degree and puts a ton of slack in the 106 tooth b2 belt.
The b2 and y7 38 tooth cam gears are interchangeable and you can run with ether but a replacement adjustable cam gear is so cheap ($30ebay) why bother and it's nice to be able to adjust more or less and see what this swap likes..
B2 head bolts carry over but the one at left rear needs a 3-4 washer stack as the y7 head boss there is shorter.
The B2 plug wire boots won't fit, their to chubby at the wire end, you could carve them down in a pinch use the y7s. The timing belt covers don't match up so a little tweaking is required or leave the top part off. Ive read the 104 tooth 16y7 belt will work too.
The jacket water outlet on the y7 head is different so you'll have to carry over the b2 one.
The picture below of the 1/2" hole drilled into the bellhousing is how i held the flywheel with a big screwdriver because i couldn't find my chain wrench to hold the front pulley while i undid the the bolt on the end of the crank. well the GF held the screw driver.
The adjustable cam gear didn't come with a key so i made one cut from key stock with a zip disk, size is 3/32 square x 3/4.
Picture below of bolt hole depth gauge made from mechanics wire.
You can't swap cams even with the help of a genie, the layout up top is way different, that said the Y7 has a better cam profile taller valve springs better valve angles a 3/4 point compression boost with flat tops and ports for torque so ya baby fly with it.
The most significant and never mentioned difference between the b2 and y7 head is cam location, the y7 cam is moved back on the head some 2 1/2 inch's hence the spark plug tubes being relocated to the front of the head.
This to is the never mentioned reason for the requirement of the shorter 103 tooth VX belt, cam to crank center height only drops 0.050" with a b2 head gasket.
This cam position shift does change timing, it retards the cam about 1 degree and puts a ton of slack in the 106 tooth b2 belt.
The b2 and y7 38 tooth cam gears are interchangeable and you can run with ether but a replacement adjustable cam gear is so cheap ($30ebay) why bother and it's nice to be able to adjust more or less and see what this swap likes..
B2 head bolts carry over but the one at left rear needs a 3-4 washer stack as the y7 head boss there is shorter.
The B2 plug wire boots won't fit, their to chubby at the wire end, you could carve them down in a pinch use the y7s. The timing belt covers don't match up so a little tweaking is required or leave the top part off. Ive read the 104 tooth 16y7 belt will work too.
The jacket water outlet on the y7 head is different so you'll have to carry over the b2 one.
The picture below of the 1/2" hole drilled into the bellhousing is how i held the flywheel with a big screwdriver because i couldn't find my chain wrench to hold the front pulley while i undid the the bolt on the end of the crank. well the GF held the screw driver.
The adjustable cam gear didn't come with a key so i made one cut from key stock with a zip disk, size is 3/32 square x 3/4.
Picture below of bolt hole depth gauge made from mechanics wire.
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