DC Header

[jamesA]

Ok I seem to have found a decent deal on a DC 4-1 header.

here. I think I'm going to go with this since it's CNC machined stainless steel over that of a real JDM ITR header.

Does anyone have any dynos of what kind of gains to expect off this header?

after this is done I'm thinking about starting to save for the RSR exmag catback.

 

[K2e2vin]

i dont know about the gains but back in the days(not really lol) thats what lots of the honda street racers use.

 

[UDT]

Expect a slitly adjusted powerband and 2-6 hp give or take.

 

[jamesA]

slight adjusted as power band moving up to a slightly higher RPM?

 

[UDT]

Originally posted by revolution8k@Nov 21 2004, 01:09 AM
slight adjusted as power band moving up to a slightly higher RPM?

[post=419962]Quoted post[/post]​

mid range. The 4-2-1 will put it a lil higher.

When i say adjusted i mean more linear. Not as many spikes.

 

[jamesA]

the header i'm looking at is the 4-1, which i've been told will focus on top end power, right?

 

[Cashizslick]

Originally posted by revolution8k@Nov 21 2004, 04:23 AM
the header i'm looking at is the 4-1, which i've been told will focus on top end power, right?

[post=419979]Quoted post[/post]​

yeah, the long runners on the 4-1 move peak torque to a higher rpm

 

[phunky.buddha]

Originally posted by revolution8k@Nov 20 2004, 11:20 PM
Ok I seem to have found a decent deal on a DC 4-1 header.

here. I think I'm going to go with this since it's CNC machined stainless steel over that of a real JDM ITR header.

Does anyone have any dynos of what kind of gains to expect off this header?

after this is done I'm thinking about starting to save for the RSR exmag catback.

[post=419923]Quoted post[/post]​

Wow, they machined the whole header from a block of steel? That's talent!

Both headers use the same manufacturing process....

Performance-wise, the 4-1 "JDM" DC with the 2.5 inch collector will outperform the JDM ITR.

 

[K2e2vin]

Originally posted by Calesta@Nov 21 2004, 04:04 PM
Wow, they machined the whole header from a block of steel? That's talent!

[post=420073]Quoted post[/post]​

i thought the same thing, untill i read this

CNC mandrel bends with robotically-welded fittings deliver perfect fit

CNC-machined and threaded flanges and O-ring seals eliminate leaks

 

[jamesA]

for the love of God... sorry I can't remember everything.

Thanks for hte help Cal, sort of.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Originally posted by K2e2vin+Nov 22 2004, 01:21 AM-->

i thought the same thing, untill i read this

CNC mandrel bends with robotically-welded fittings deliver perfect fit

CNC-machined and threaded flanges and O-ring seals eliminate leaks

[post=420275]Quoted post[/post]​

Yeah I read the description... I was just poking fun at the way he wrote the original post.

revolution8k@Nov 22 2004, 01:31 AM
for the love of God... sorry I can't remember everything.
Thanks for hte help Cal, sort of.

[post=420279]Quoted post[/post]​

You're welcome.

The real JDM ITR header uses NC cut flanges too, I'm sure...

 

[jamesA]

So cal, what do you think of this setup.

~Crower stroker kit. 81 mm bore, 89 mm stroke, 1.83Ls - $2300
*not sure if I should get the 4340 billet crank for 1500 or not, would it be wise to invest in that?
~Crower stage two NA street/strip cams, $1260 (480 is for recommended 84161 retainers)
~the CAI I already have.
~DC sports header, 4-1 stainless steel (refer to first post for link) - $270
~RS*R 2 1/4" catback - $600
~A'Pexi VAFC

With a good tune, 200-210 wheel hp?

 

[phunky.buddha]

Skip the cash on the stroker kit and just buy a B18B. You'll save yourself about $1800. You can spend the difference on better tuning, a VTEC head, or an entire VTEC engine. Everything else looks good. I doubt you'll get 210whp on an all motor non-VTEC block pushing pump gas though, especially if you're only going to use a VAFC to tune it.

 

[jamesA]

Eh. I don't want to buy a non vtec block. The point of it is to see what I can get out of a b16a.

To get it tuned perfectly should i invest in a hondata over the vafc then?

Seems everyone likes to do 180s in every other thread about tuning advice.

 

[sohcslammer]

Originally posted by revolution8k@Nov 22 2004, 02:49 AM
So cal, what do you think of this setup.

~Crower stroker kit. 81 mm bore, 89 mm stroke, 1.83Ls - $2300
*not sure if I should get the 4340 billet crank for 1500 or not, would it be wise to invest in that?
~Crower stage two NA street/strip cams, $1260 (480 is for recommended 84161 retainers)
~the CAI I already have.
~DC sports header, 4-1 stainless steel (refer to first post for link) - $270
~RS*R 2 1/4" catback - $600
~A'Pexi VAFC

With a good tune, 200-210 wheel hp?

[post=420297]Quoted post[/post]​

I agree, fuck the stroker kit. What c/r are you going to have? Instead of stroking it, you should sleeve and bore it. Also, check out the zex/comp cams 57200. I really like the specs as well as the price. Expect to pay around $800-850 for the cam and valvespring kit. Cams, springs, ti retainers, and assembly lube.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Originally posted by revolution8k@Nov 22 2004, 10:59 AM
Eh. I don't want to buy a non vtec block. The point of it is to see what I can get out of a b16a.

To get it tuned perfectly should i invest in a hondata over the vafc then?

Seems everyone likes to do 180s in every other thread about tuning advice.

[post=420333]Quoted post[/post]​

Well, for the money you're planning to spend on the stroker kit, you can go with some crazy standalone setup and a B18 block. 81mm bore and 89mm stroke is what you get from a non-VTEC B18, and it'll have better geometry than a B16 stroked to 89mm too. Why spend $2300 to get it if you can do it for $400? Spend the $1900 somewhere else.

 

[B16]

for that price of that 4-1 you could get the JDM DC 4-1 from titanmotorsports at $250 shipped. hell of a deal. if they still have the deal going on, check them out. thats where i got mine, much better than the US header.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Oh yeah- your price on the cams is really high. If you were thinking of getting the stroker kit because of the billet cam, there's no reason to- the stock B18 crank can run 600whp and 10k rpm without any issues. Just make sure its spin balanced at a good machine shop.

 

[jamesA]

Originally posted by Calesta@Nov 22 2004, 12:09 PM
Oh yeah- your price on the cams is really high. If you were thinking of getting the stroker kit because of the billet cam, there's no reason to- the stock B18 crank can run 600whp and 10k rpm without any issues. Just make sure its spin balanced at a good machine shop.

[post=420375]Quoted post[/post]​

you mean the billet crank, right?

Titan motorsports eh B16? thanks for the heads up. I'll look into that. I was gonna get that 4-1 because it's cheaper than a jdm itr.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Originally posted by revolution8k+Nov 22 2004, 09:43 PM-->

Calesta

@Nov 22 2004, 12:09 PM
Oh yeah- your price on the cams is really high. If you were thinking of getting the stroker kit because of the billet cam, there's no reason to- the stock B18 crank can run 600whp and 10k rpm without any issues. Just make sure its spin balanced at a good machine shop.

[post=420375]Quoted post[/post]​

you mean the billet crank, right?

[post=420729]Quoted post[/post]​

Yes.