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distrubtor for mini-me?

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by 89' Project Civic, Mar 16, 2009.

  1. 89' Project Civic

    89' Project Civic d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"

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    Hey guys, I have a 90' Civic Cx and I am doing the "mini-me" swap I was just wondering which dizzy should I use on my d16a6/d16y8 mini-me swap with an OBD1 conversion harness. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!.
     
  2. Korax

    Korax New Member

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    I hope a mod deletes the previous post. This is a DIY write up over a year old. make a new thread. Oh, and I believe the answer to your question is not even one minute of reading from the top.. and that's a 5th grade level.
     
  3. 89' Project Civic

    89' Project Civic d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"

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    Wow, someone woke up on the wrong side of the bed!. I realized that after I took time to read the whole thing. Sorry.
     
  4. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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  5. sevenhillsbilly

    sevenhillsbilly New Member

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    well if look at the sheet that came with the conversion harness you can prob go to the junk yard and get the clips you need. so if its a y8 head get the y8 dizzy...
     
  6. 89' Project Civic

    89' Project Civic d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"

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    Will the y8 distributor work with my OBD0 - OBD1 conversion harness?. I hear that the z6 dizzy will bolt right on to my y8 head and work with my conversion harness. I'm still waiting on the conversion harness though, I bought it for $60 on eBay.ca. As well, I am currently de-soldering my ECU to convert my (non-vtec) p06 to VTEC, should be fun to solder up again:p. The kit for the 11FO is only $18.00, whereas if I get pherable.net to do it I believe it is just under $50. Thanks for the reply!.
     
  7. hatukazi

    hatukazi ambitious...but rubbish

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    you need jumper plugs to run that distributor with your engine harness,
    you also need to run 2 wires back to your ecu plugs.

    blue/yellow to C2, blue/green to C1
     
  8. 89' Project Civic

    89' Project Civic d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"

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    Thank you for the reply, I am seriously looking for a dizzy now and I need to know which one will fit!. As stated above I am doing the mini-me swap (d16a6/d16y8) combo. I have an OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness and need to know if the TD-42U, 92-95 Honda Civic d16z6 VTEC, distributor is the one that will fit right onto my d16y8 head.
     
  9. 91crxdxy8

    91crxdxy8 New Member

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    okay hers the deal you need to go with an obd1 dizzy why im not sure but it is what the ecu is loking for because of tdc ckp and cyp sensors but you can use the y8 dizzy all bolts line up unlike the obd1 dizzy only 1 lines up the you have 2 choices you depin the plug and repin to obd1 the use jumper harness or try to repin it in obd0 style so it plugs in good luck
     
  10. 89' Project Civic

    89' Project Civic d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"

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    So the d16z6 V.T.E.C. distributor does not line up with the d16y8 bolt pattern?. I am wondering if I can just use the d16y8 distributor then, I do not want to re-fabricate my dizzy because that would require drilling holes in the head and I am not comfortable in doing so. I have done the p06 non-V.T.E.C. to V.T.E.C. conversion making it very similar to the p28 so could I get away with the d16y8 dizzy, if the conversion is done?. Thanks in advance!.
     
  11. 89' Project Civic

    89' Project Civic d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"

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    Sorry, I did not read your post thoroughly before re-posting. What I think you mean now is that I can use the d16y8 dizzy with some electrical work. I will do electrical no problem.
     
  12. raceinspiredrex

    raceinspiredrex New Member

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    i literally just did the swap a month ago. you need a d15b7 distributor from a 92-95 honda civic lx or dx. it doesn't have to be a "vtec" distributor. all a distributor does is distributes the spark to each cylinder, nothing more. you should be very happy with the swap. i hope you're planning on getting it tuned afterwards or have the right basemap to put on a chipped ecu. do you? cause if you run a stock p28 ecu you run really rich in some areas and really lean in others, because the maps on a p28 are completely different than what you need for this swap
     
  13. c-rex-beat

    c-rex-beat yeah, it's a vtec.

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    I know a td-o2u dizzy will work just fine.
     
  14. raceinspiredrex

    raceinspiredrex New Member

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    i'm not sure what dizzy that is. but i made it simple, get a dizzy from a 92-95 civic lx or dx, it will have a d15b7 motor. that's what you need, it's really simple
     
  15. 89' Project Civic

    89' Project Civic d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"

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    So what you guys are saying is that if I buy a d15b7 distributor it will be the same bolt holes for my d16y8 head. As well, is the d15b7's dizzy an OBD-1 or OBD-0?. Will it activate VTEC still?.
     
  16. raceinspiredrex

    raceinspiredrex New Member

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    the dizzy isn't what activates vtec, the vtec solenoid activates vtec. the only thing the dizzy does is delivers the spark to each cylinder, that's it, that's it's only job really. so yes, the d15b7 dizzy is obd1, you have to use an obd1 dizzy if you're using an obd1 ecu, which you're probably going to do. and yes, the d15b7 dizzy's bolt holes will match perfectly to the y8 head. i'm telling you this because i went through a bunch of stuff when doing this swap, i just finished this over a month ago. honestly, if you haven't done the swap yet, i would question yourself. it's honestly 100 times easier to use the z6 head setup. can you tell me why you want to use the y8 head?
     
  17. 89' Project Civic

    89' Project Civic d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"

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    Alright, so the distributor has nothing to do with V.T.E.C., that is a huge relief. I have a p06 e.c.u. and bought the non-v.t.e.c. to v.t.e.c. conversion kit and I am going to solder it in soon. I bought the d16y8 head because I heard that it has better air flow and tumbling ports. I got it for $100 and did not think I could go wrong. I am rebuilding it with all new seals and a Crower "stage1" camshaft. Which swap did you do and how did it run?.
     
  18. c-rex-beat

    c-rex-beat yeah, it's a vtec.

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    I did mine with b7 bottom and z6 head. arp studs for which block you are using, timing belt from the block you will be using. obd0-1 jumper harness, made a jumper for dizzy, it's simple, 4 wire o2 and preferably the two clips for vtec solenoid and pressure switch. To make life easier I recomend using the a6 intake mani and the z6/y8 throttle body because you will be using that map sensor. if you need any mini me parts get at me, they need to be gone.
     
  19. raceinspiredrex

    raceinspiredrex New Member

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    i have a crx si so i have the d16a6. i'm using the stock a6 bottom with a y8 head, intake manifold, and throttle body. i'm also using a p28 ecu.

    you don't use whatever arp head studs match the block, that's where some people go wrong. with the a6/y8 combo, you have to get a special kit from lightning motorsports which gives you 1 extra stud to use for the top left bolt hole that's a little longer, because the bolt hole there is a little deeper.

    anyways, then you have to use a d15b7 timing belt because anything else will be too loose. you would use your same water pump and everything else for whatever block you're using, in this case for the a6. you must get new spark plug wires as the vtec wires are shorter or longer than any others, i dont remember exactly but you do need different wires. of course you're gonna want new spark plugs. and a head gasket of course.

    i used the y8 throttle body which has the map sensor on the tb itself rather than using the one on the firewall. all you do is extend the wiring to use the one on the tb. or you can just keep using the one on the firewall, it doesn't matter if you leave one unplugged, just remember if you use the one on the firewall, you have to have a vacuum line running to it.

    you're going to have to change the way that all of the vacuum lines are ran. there isn't a lot of them, but there just isn't the same combination of places to tap in on the intake manifold. it's easy, but you just have to play around with them. make sure you get several feet of vacuum line. another vacuum line you have to run is for the vacuum canister. whether you took it out or not, you have to run it to a port on the intake manifold. the other taps on the intake manifold are used for the fuel pressure regulator, brake booster, and pcv valve.

    you're gonna need an intake and exhaust manifold gasket as well. the biggest thing is using the right adjustable cam gear. there are 2 different types. you have to use an adjustable cam gear with this setup. there's the z6 one and there's the y8 one. the difference is that the different gears are offset differently. if you have a z6 gear, i think you leave it at either 0, or advance it 9 degrees. with the y8 gear, you retard it 4.5 degrees.

    if you're using the y8 manifold, be sure it's from a manual car, because then the iacv on the back will use the exact same 2 wire plug as your car. you're going to have to extend the wiring for that just a couple of inches. if you use the y8 manifold, you have to use the y8 fuel rail. you can still use the obd0 injectors and keep the resistor box. or you take out the resistor box and use obd1 injectors but you have to change the injector clips to use them.

    also, the iat sensor and plug that was usually on the intake manifold of the a6 and z6 intake manifolds isn't on the y8 manifold, on the y8 motor it's actually in the intake tubing. so i just got the sensor from a junked car and ran it the same way. you just drill a hole in your intake tubing, install the right sized grommet, then push the sensor in. you have to extend the wiring from the driver's side of the engine bay to the intake tubing, which is less than 2 feet.

    to swap to obd1, you have to get the conversion harnes. basically you're just going to run 7 wires from the ecu area to the engine bay. 4 wires for the 4 wire o2 sensor that you'll need, and then 3 wires to the vtec solenoid.

    you'll have to get that ecu chipped and run the right basemap because the fuel and timing maps will be all wrong. i'm still not running right because i'm still in the process of trying to figure out exactly what map to run. my car runs pretty strong, but not as strong as it could/should.

    going with the a6/z6 setup is 100 times easier and if i had to do it all again i would go that way. it's way easier and actually is better for making any kind of power. without getting into tons of detail about it, the head is better flowing and will make more power than the y8 head. not only that, but instead of having to mismatch everything to install the y8 head, everything is matching and easy to put together. and you can use a stock p28 which is what matches the head, rather than having to get an ecu chipped and finding the right basemap for your setup. either that or getting a chipped ecu and paying a bunch of money to get your entire car tuned. just think about it before you dump a bunch of money into your setup.
     
  20. 89' Project Civic

    89' Project Civic d16a6/d16y8 "mini-me"

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    Thanks!

    Thanks, I have already put too much time into this setup and have my P06 chipped to the P28 standard. What is a basemap?. I am buying my Crower "Stage 1" camshaft this month, as for the adjustable camgear I have the d16y8 gear and set it back 4.5 degrees. Thanks a lot for that little bit of information. I found it very useful, but how do I run the vaccum lines if I don't have a diagram?. Also, do you know anything about dowel pins?, my question is should I buy 2 and put 1 on the exhaust side and the other on the opposite intake side -OR- just buy 4 dowel pins to solve any confusion and have more insurance that it is on right.
     
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