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Doing A Swap Next Month

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by Liquidblaze, Jan 5, 2003.

  1. B20B & LS Tranny

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  2. LS/vtec

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  3. 0 vote(s)
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  1. Liquidblaze

    Liquidblaze Senior Member

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    My 1998 Civic DX Coupe is getting on my nerves and I need more power. I am coming across some money next month and I have an open source of engines listed above (all JDM). I have a friend who has his own shop and he goes to Japan every six months and brings motors back with him.

    Well, I don't quit know what would be the best way to go thats why I am asking for everyone's help. I am taking suggestions on other engines also. I don't know if I am going N/A or if I am going to boost it, but I am leaning more towards a turbo.

    BTW, I was looking in Hondaswap.com Reference Section and I thought that the B20 was a vtec, is it or is it not?

    Thanks for your help!
    -Chris
     
  2. djextremity

    djextremity Senior Member

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    in your rearview mirror..wait..
    Why not LS + LS tranny? If you're leaning toward boost, you'll want to resleeve (and bore) anyways, so you might as well save yourself the money you would have spend on a JDM B20. In fact, why not just pick up the LS from a junkyard here? It'll probably run you like 1500-2000 complete (I dunno how much your JDM friend can get it for), and it's always easier to smog a USDM engine than a JDM engine.

    B20 is not VTEC in any trim.
     
  3. Domeskilla

    Domeskilla Senior Member

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    b20's aren't much more b/c you can't use the crv tranny.. so you pay 800 or so the long block and then 300 or whatever for ls tranny.

    bore and resleeve the ls = b20

    bore and resleeve the b20 = 2.2

    so.. i would just go b20 b/c it will always make more power if some mods done to it as done to the ls.

    (ls swaps are around 1200-1500 depends where you are located)
     
  4. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    Not voting on either one of your choices. Go with either the LS (no vtec) and bore that out to 84 mm or go with the crvtec if you want to go NA
     
  5. SleEPeR_CRX

    SleEPeR_CRX Senior Member

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    Dude, if u wanna go N/A go CRVtec, it will kick everything on theres ass, but they are also a fair bit of money. I would also go b20 but work all the internals so it can handle high rmp's.
     
  6. Liquidblaze

    Liquidblaze Senior Member

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    I can get the B20 for 1500 if that helps.
     
  7. chet

    chet Senior Member

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    b20z's are vtec.

    b20b's are not.

    get a gsr transmission, ls transmissions suck.
     
  8. SolReaver

    SolReaver Senior Member

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  9. Domeskilla

    Domeskilla Senior Member

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    b20b/z info

    According to pic.. the b20b is usdm and the b20z is jdm.. no vtec.
     
  10. Liquidblaze

    Liquidblaze Senior Member

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    I can get a b20b with a gsr vtec head for $1800. What all would I need for the swap? I know that in the package I get the engine, ecu, wire harness, axles (if I want them), and shift linkage (if I wanted). Is there anything else I need. Once I put it in and go N/A, what kind of power am I looking at, I understand you can't really tell but a rough estimate would be great.

    Thanks for everyone's help.
     
  11. prawjEKt Cx

    prawjEKt Cx Senior Member

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    b18b, no vtec head, 84mm GE sleeve.
     
  12. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    just remember, by the time you are done with this swap (if you do it right) will cost you well over 5k. It is not just that simple slap the gsr head on that block, your going to need all new internals.

    About rough estiment, I am not totally sure but it is going to be the trq. that is going to give you a heart attack. (doesnt happen much in hondas)
     
  13. paragus

    paragus Senior Member

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    im gonna be the only one to say this.. h22!
     
  14. kyleirwin

    kyleirwin Retired OG

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    that is not true a b20 block basicly is equal to a bored ls... not a re-sleeved ls. and that is just the block, the internals are pretty different.

    if you're leanin' towards boost, i'd say go get an ls (b18b) and build an ls/t.

    as for the h22, i talked to brian a little bit, and h22's in street driven civics are pretty fucked. they're too big so they have to sit low in the engine bay so it affects handling (not cuz of the extra weight, but cuz of the weight distrabution [sp?]) and also cuz it sits lower, the axles are slanted upwards so you're gonna need some tough aftermarket axles if you don't want to be breakin' axles left and right and then after you boost it, that still might not be enough to keep yourself from breakin' axles. plus with the h22, you have to get it sleeved if you wanna run forged pistons.
    all the h22 info is basicly stright from brian, but it may have been a little distorted in my translation though.
     
  15. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    BAH! chet you fucktard.

    you owned yourself right there man. :p b20z are NOT vtec. the difference between a b and z series is the compression ratio/domed pistons, and the intake manifold.
    the head casts are both identical to the LS
     
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