DP-MPFI for D15B2 with PG7

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peanut

Member
Yes, I went ahead to get my mpfi swap done on Christmas eve.

First,

I changed out my DX camshaft to the SOHC ZC one. It has a slightly higher lift and longer duration. It was the easy part.

Second,

I did my wiring as per normal with a TD02U

For distributor wiring, I am also running a MSD external coil and ignition box. From the ignition box I have two wires spliced to the black/yellow & blue wires on the 2-pin plug. I got all the wiring done for the 7-pin plug. Added orange and white wires instead as my DX dis had blue/green and blue/yellow wires. My DX ecu also has blue/green and blue/yellow at C1 & C2.

For the injector wiring, I soldered the black/yellow wires from the two DPFI injectors to the single black/yellow wire to the resistor box.

After about 5 hours of labour, we turned the key and there was blinking at the ecu. Tried to start but can't. Suddenly, we found gas leaking at the fuel rail and radiator coolant running into the cylinder nearest the radiator water port. WTF, I thought I am going to trek 6 miles home. After an hour of removing the previous manifold bracket, tightening the intake manifold and fuel rail connections that problem was solved.

However, there was a problem with starting the engine, apparently there was no spark with the MSD coil and ignition box connections, the clear cap gave a good indication of it. I have no choice and de-wired the MSD components and use the stock internal coil and cap. Managed to start the car. However the check engine light came on and the ecu still gave out 5, 6, 10, 13 & 20 short flashes. I took the car for a spin despite the problems. The sound was different. My previous DPFI was higher pitched. The MPFI with the much larger throttle body gave out a low growling sound and was incredible at high throttle. However, I was rather disappointed at the low end torque. At which rpm, I do not know because my rev meter is dead. Is it some wrong connection? I also have some problems with the vacum hoses. Any kind soul willing to guide me on this one?

However, I managed to drive home despite the check engine light and celebrate Christmas with my family.

Merry Christmas everyone.
 
After much struggling, managed to get rid of all the ecu codes except 13 & 20. The tachometer is still dead, most probably due to code 20 (Electrical Load Detector Faulty). This swap is not as easy as it sounds. Is there a possibility I shorted something while soldering? I have one plug left after the swap with no where to connect to. Anyone know where is the atmospheric pressure sensor or baro sensor located?
 
Originally posted by peanut@Dec 25 2003, 02:09 AM
After much struggling, managed to get rid of all the ecu codes except 13 & 20. The tachometer is still dead, most probably due to code 20 (Electrical Load Detector Faulty). This swap is not as easy as it sounds. Is there a possibility I shorted something while soldering? I have one plug left after the swap with no where to connect to. Anyone know where is the atmospheric pressure sensor or baro sensor located?
Click to expand...

sounds like a problem in the wiring - the baro sensor is located on the passenger side kick panel behind the dash - http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-11-7.jpg
- doubt you have a problem with it as they seldom, if ever, go bad - make sure all of the wiring is correct
 
Originally posted by jlicrx+Dec 26 2003, 09:51 AM-->
jlicrx @ Dec 26 2003 said:
peanut
Click to expand...
jlicrx @ Dec 26 2003 said:
@Dec 25 2003, 02:09 AM
After much struggling, managed to get rid of all the ecu codes except 13 & 20. The tachometer is still dead, most probably due to code 20 (Electrical Load Detector Faulty). This swap is not as easy as it sounds. Is there a possibility I shorted something while soldering? I have one plug left after the swap with no where to connect to. Anyone know where is the atmospheric pressure sensor or baro sensor located?
Click to expand...

sounds like a problem in the wiring - the baro sensor is located on the passenger side kick panel behind the dash - http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-11-7.jpg
- doubt you have a problem with it as they seldom, if ever, go bad - make sure all of the wiring is correct
Click to expand...

Thanx for the info and diagram. :angel2:

Guess what. I think I am missing the baro sensor. I have no wire coming out of ecu plug at C9 even when it was DPFI.

Anyone know how does it look like and what type of plug connects to it? Can it be bought from the dealer? I need something to get that check engine light off.
 
Got almost everything running with the exception of ecu error code 13 as I am missing a PA sensor. Anyone know where to get a used obd0 PA sensor with the plug?

Another thing, the DP to MPFI swap power increase was significant. With my previous DP setup, the same in-city driving style and similar foot pressure on the throttle I got about 30-33mph before shifting to 4th. Now I change to 4th when I go up to 39-42mph. The torque increase was also significant. Due to a sensitive throttle and a problem which I will elaborate later, the tires were screeching at 2000-2500rpm.

Why did I burn rubber needlessly? This was due to an experience with bogging effects when the a/c was on. The car ran like shit with the a/c on. I also drove it around with the a/c on right after the swap was complete with 2 unresolved ecu error codes at that time making me think that the low end sucks with the higher lift and longer duration camshaft. Whenever the a/c was on, I have to step the throttle more before taking off but still there is still this HUGE hesitation which is very dangerous at the cross-roads. The car bogs at take off but once speed is picked up, it becomes normal.

So whenever, I want to take-off fast, I have to switch off the a/c. I adjusted the idle quite high to compensate until my idle without the a/c was at 1000-1100rpm. I adjusted to normal 850rpm without the a/c on the night before, but whenever I press and depress the throttle together operating the a/c. The tach needle just goes up and drops to zero and my car stalled.

Is something wrong with my EACV? But I am not getting any codes relating to it.

Or is it my ecu is in limp mode due to error code 13? But why is there so much more torque and power with the a/c off? (With the a/c on, the power is worse than my previous dpfi setup with a/c on)

Or did I ground my shielded cable for crank angle sensor (B10 & 12) wrongly to A18 (Ground)?

Any experienced thoughts.
Thanks.
 
Hey,

I am doing the same swap, and I have codes 10, and 20... and the car won't start... I am getting spark, but it won't fire...also, when I turn the ignition off, the lights on the gauge cluster remain on, but very faded for a few seconds... then the everything shuts off...

Anyways, how did you get rid of code 10 and 20???
 
Originally posted by drasticdezignz@Jan 1 2004, 02:45 PM
Hey,

I am doing the same swap, and I have codes 10, and 20... and the car won't start... I am getting spark, but it won't fire...also, when I turn the ignition off, the lights on the gauge cluster remain on, but very faded for a few seconds... then the everything shuts off...

Anyways, how did you get rid of code 10 and 20???
Click to expand...

Initially, I have this very faded lights on the gauge cluster at times when I turn the ignition off. Are you also using MSD box/coil/cap as well?

Check your new wire connections, hoses connections, re-adjust your timing and idle speed setting. I managed to start but the car died when the throttle was depressed. Did a run-up of the above and managed to start in limp mode with 6 error codes! Managed to clear 4 of it soon after.

I had code 20 because I am driving a JDM EG8 and the main fuse bx do not have ELD, I cleared it by removing component BR1 on my USDM ecu. If you are driving a USDM model, most likely you need to check your ELD but refer to the link below.

http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/...es/91-11-68.jpg
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/...es/91-11-69.jpg

For code 10,
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/...es/91-11-58.jpg
http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/...es/91-11-59.jpg


I am left with code 13 as I do not have a PA sensor on board and the a/c is grinding down my car to a snail's pace at take off.
 
Check to make sure that the two white wires on the distributor are in the correct order after you change the plug. When I did this swap that was why mine didnt start.
 
Originally posted by Jeef@Jan 1 2004, 11:38 AM
Remove the a/c and save like 50 pounds in the front of the car.
Click to expand...

I'll wish. But the tropical weather here is killer sweatin' humid, I could die of heat stroke at the wheel driving past mid day. There are also the frequent showers and I have to wind up the windows. Don't want to fog up the glass inside.

In fact, I blew a rubber bung located below the dis when I was pushing my car hard past 4000, causing coolant to leak. I send the car in for servicing and my mechanic friend did a proper tuning and cleaned out the throttle body and the attached pipes. It was okay and the bogging was largely absent from most take-offs. Cost about 12 bucks.

Now all I have to do is to get rid of code 13.

Is it true that the ecu will go into 'limp mode' regardless of any error code? What happens during 'limp mode'?
 
Hey,

well the the distributor seems to work, but I am having trouble getting power to the injector resistor box... it seems that the two black and yellow wires from the two DX injectors aren't giving me any power.. Any suggestions????
 
If you have a digital camera post a pic of what you did and how your wired the resistor box.
 
I decided to run the injector resistor to the ECU pin A15..... got power, but still the engine won't start.....
 
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