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drivers side kick panel

Discussion in 'ECU's, Electronics, and Tuning' started by reckedracing, Jan 25, 2006.

  1. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    someone told me about a blue box behind the drivers side kick panel on hondas that go bad and cause a no start issue, i was just wondering what this "blue box" is...

    some sort of relay i assume
     
  2. B16RacerN2NR

    B16RacerN2NR Working Hard VIP

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    I never seen a "blue box" in the driver kick panel area. They could be talking about your Main Relay but that's not blue, or at least the ones i've seen aren't.
     
  3. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    lol, have you seen any box in the drivers side kick panel area?

    i have had many hondas apart and don't remember anything like this either...

    whats the symptoms for a main relay failure?
     
  4. kyleirwin

    kyleirwin Retired OG

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    turn the key on and nothing happens. it's often intermittent at the beginning and progressively takes more and more key turns to start the car before it eventually completely fails.
     
  5. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    ah, i thank you much
    i don't think its the main relay...

    i looked in the helms and according to that, the TCM(CVT) is behind the drivers sid kick panel...
    tcm = transmission control module and the notes say CVT

    wtf is cvt?
    i'm guessing constant velocity transmission...?
    would this mean a 5 speed?

    ok.... cvt = continuously variable transmission
    but my sisters car is a 5 speed, so this box is more than likely not the cause of the no start...
    damn it
     
  6. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    someone tricked you and shoved a greddy blue box fmu in your car :cry2: that sucks
     
  7. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    if only it were that simple...

    this car is kicking my ass
     
  8. D See 2

    D See 2 Senior Member

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    What exactly is the problem?
     
  9. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    97 civic lx or dx junker

    had a CEL for TDC sensor

    autozone read the code as a misfire, sold my sister plugs and wires and cap...

    so she changed those and then no start...
    did the wires one at a time etc etc...
    so then i told her she should have just gotten a dist. cause that houses the TDC sensor and they start to go bad then just die

    so changed the dist. and still no start
    it sputters a bit like it wants to start but nothing...

    i got the firing order just to double check again on the wires...

    but when she was able to get it started after the tune up the CEL light was FLASHING, not on, not off, but flashing... not codes either, just flash flash flash, wtf?

    the only time i have see the CEL flash is when i left the jumper clip hooked up and started my car... [​IMG]

    i am thinking bad ecu maybe?
    the kicker is i pulled wire #4 and its got spark...
    doesn;t seem like a shit load of spark, but its there non the less...
     
  10. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    if tdc is off, check your timing... grab a lite.
     
  11. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    you think it jumped timing?

    we just did a timing belt about 4-6 months ago...

    i think it was water pump, timing belt, and tensioner...

    now that you mention it it did seem to be spinning a bit faster than normal, but i pulled the dist and saw the cam turning so i assumed it was ok...


    you mean a timing light?
    can you check your ignition timing without the motor running?
     
  12. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    oh, i thought it puttned around...

    check the crank pulley against the cam gear. make sure the BTDC and Up arrow on the cam gear are legit. jumping 1 took on the cam gear can fuck your whole wolrd up.

    ask E.

    one of his adjustble cam gears got loose.. and after replacing the fuel pump and a bunch of other crap, did it turn out that the cam gear had loosend and moved.

    cam is off- valves open at wrong time, no air fuel gets in, car doesn't start.

    bam.
     
  13. MXDesa

    MXDesa Senior Member

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    Flashing Check engine light when the car is running indicates a severe misfire. The ECU blinks the light when the misfire is severe enough to damage the catalytic convertor. Make sure the plug wires are in the right firing order.
     
  14. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    damn you;re good mang...

    so i stopped by her house last night
    wires were fucked up, but the car still won;t start
    removed the fuel line from the fuel rail, seems to be getting lots of fuel...
    whats the chances the "autolite" or whatever shit plugs she got would have gotten "fouled" from having the wires wrong?

    should i just get ngk's to be on the safe side?
    i didn;t have the tools to check the timing lastnight, might try that tonight...

    thanks for all the help guys
     
  15. MikeBergy

    MikeBergy Blah blah blah....

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    def. go with ngk's, but that is probably not the problem. How about the ignition timing? Is your distributor off too much? I'd check that too. Usually to get it in the ball park, just loosen the distributor up and try rotating it a little bit while someone else is trying to start it. That's what I did when I forgot to mark it.
     
  16. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    i've gone from fully advanced to fully retarded and everything inbetween
     
  17. MXDesa

    MXDesa Senior Member

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    Any Update?? It is absolutely possible that the plugs could be at fault. From flooding the engine while the wires mismatched could have put in excessive fuel...
     
  18. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    no update yet

    i sent her out to get new ngk plugs, i;m hoping the severe misfire lead to fouled plugs...

    but i;m guessing the misfire could have made it jump a tooth as well
     
  19. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

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    ok, update...

    went to my sisters house lastnight
    checked the timing belt, seemed ok
    checked to see if the rotor was pointing to #1 at TDC and that was good
    checked the coil wires inside the dist and they seemed good...
    replaced the bosch plugs with new ngk's

    turned it over and over and over
    nothing

    pulled off the air filter, put some gas directly into the intake
    turned it over, got some puttering etc
    more gas, repeat again and again
    and then finally she fired off...
    kept it going and now it seems to run fine

    now its got a surging idle, 1K to 2K after its warmed up
    checked coolant and it was a bit low, topped it off, but it still surges...

    i;m thinking possibly a bad TPS...
    but no codes after 2 10-15 minute test drives...

    or it could be the fast idle thermo valve...
    gotta check that out too...
     
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