Engine noise

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bigwormpaul

New Member
Hey guys need some advice, driving home last night and my engine starting making some noise. i would say tapping to a slight knock only does it between 1500-2500, after 3grand cannot hear noise sounds like it is in the cyl.head on #3 or 4 cyl. let me know wht you guys think. motor b18c1 all stock:(
 
could be almost anything, i would pull the valve cover and check to make sure your rockers are all adjusted correctly, I have seen the jam nuts loosen up on an engine that has never been touched before, it causes alot of noise and misfire, but also if that were the case you woudl hear it all the time not just at a certain rpm
I would take it to a good shop somewhere and let them take a look at it, then take it for a second opinion so you don't get screwed, you don't want to let it go too long to where it may cause irrepairable damage.
If you live near upstate NY I would be more than happy to take a look at it.
 
hey thks for the offer i live in K.S. i pulled the vale cover and checked the timing and valve lash is good more of a knocking noise and getting worse,i am going to pull engine and take a look at the mains and rod bearings:(
 
Yah, that was going to be my next suggestion, a rod knock is almost always noticable at a certain rpm, or under a certain load, hopefully you can get away without having to get a new crank. Sorry to hear it tho.
 
it is a knock at idle to about 3000rpm sounds like about half way between motor and head on cyl. 3 and 4 pulling engine today to check it out
 
well got motor pulled out and pulled off oil pan, spun #4 rod bearing. bearing is very thin crank looks like it could be cleaned up i hope. does anybody know who can build a gsr short block?
 
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pics of the crank offending rod journal? Ill let you know right now if it's worth saving.
 
yah, It's shot, time for a new crank, and try to find out why it did that in the first place, none of the other journals are scratched?? maybe check number 4 and 5 main, you might have something in the crank or block blocking the oil flow.
Eagle makes a good aftermarket crank, or just try to find another OEM one.
 
wht do you guys think about B20Z2 with the gsr head wht kind of comp. can i expect?
 
there is a compression calculator in the refrence section, basically you should expect 10%more comression with a gsr head, but that is just am estiamte, there are alot of other factors that will contribute to the compression of the engine, including pistons, headgasket, decking etc.
 
is that a decent combo B20Z2/with gsr head,it is going to be all stock. will it run just as good as the b18c1?
 
b20 anything with the gsr head will have more hp and torque than the gsr and if built correctly and a little tuning can have more hp and tq than the type R, personally I have seen some really good b20/vtecs pull over 200 wheel hp with stock internals, adj. cam gears, type R cams and hondata,
On the other hand tho, the same build can be botched and run only a little more hp than the GSR, it all depends on what you put into it, if you modify the crank, use hondata or crome or the like and the adjustable cam gears play a huge role in the ls/vtec either b20 or b18 because the timing belt doesn't allow the cams to line up perfectly with the crank, you either get a little retarded or a little advanced with the stock cam gears. Either way if you know how to build an engine you are fine.
 
just going to put to stock, already found the B20Z2 low milage. going to have gsr head redone valve job,new seals,poss resurface head and new gaskets get the vtec conversion kit. i half to get this engine togather start collage in a week1/2. wht should i sell the b18c1 short block for? thks for everybodys help.
 
used gsr short block in good shape should sell for 400-600, maybe more depending on who you sell it to and how you sell it.
 
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