Engine swapped... running rough and "D" light blinking... help!!

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bangandow

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Just finished swapping an auto OBD2 F22 into my '95 accord... Swapped in the OBD2 ECU using an adapter, but kept the OBD1 alternator because it matched up with the engine harness.

Fired it up and it's running rough... the engine's shaking all over the place and it's making this sputtering kind of sound like it's hanging on for dear life. At the dash, the check engine light is on and the "D" (drive) light is blinking...

I figured maybe it was a timing problem, so I tried slowly adjusting the distributor position with the engine running... As I advance it, it begins to sound smoother, but it's still bad off with it in the furthest "advance" position...

Any light you guys can shed on this would be much appreciated... I'm gonna go finish assembling some other stuff to make her roadworthy and see if I can make it up to autozone to get a timing light and check out that CEL... in the past they said they can't check 95's but I'm hoping they can now since it's OBD2... :confused:
 
Southside... just inside Chesterfield off of Midlothian Turnpike...

Worked some more on it today... got the timing right, but it's still running kinda rough... didn't risk a trip to get the CEL checked out, but I know I need to... the D4 light is still blinking... when I give it some good gas it revs up and just kind of falters, either dropping back to idle or stalling out completely. Checked all the vacuum hoses and everything seems kosher.

Even tried putting the OBD1 ECU back in and it actually smoothed out some, but still faltering when I give it gas. My thinking was that the fuel delivery isn't advancing with the ignition when I hit the gas... but the white smoke sputtering from the exhaust makes me question that thinking.

Two things I want to stress that are worrying me...
1) Let me reiterate that I'm using the distributor from the '95 because the plugs match the engine harness... is that a problem when used with the OBD2 ECU and engine?
2) There's a plug on the OBD1 harness that's supposed to hook up to something on the fuel rail... this "something" and the lines going to and from it simply don't exist on the OBD2 engine, so the plug on the harness is just hanging free.

As always, thanks for any help you guys can offer... and boosted, it would be awesome to get some help!
 
Pm me your number and I can call you . I live right off courthouse at providence. Your only a few miles away ..
 
Based on the advice of a local shop, I swapped back in the OBD1 intake manifold and a few other things and hooked the OBD1 ECU back up and she's running much smoother... new problem now, though: when I start it up, it climbs right to 3000 RPM's and creeps up a little bit past there...

Any suggestions? My thinking is to swap the spare throttle body in to see how it reacts, but I'd like to know if that'd just be a waste of time or if there's something else I should look into...
 
Is it still saying its in drive? Do you have your trans position switch hooked up properly did you check to make sure you didnt have to change any pins or anything. You could have a problem with your position sensor if its saying its in drive.
 
It's running fine now... I swapped everything peripheral to the engine (distributor, intake, etc...) back to the OBD1 parts and plugged the OBD1 ECU back in and everything went much smoother. Boostedf22 was kind enough to come over and point out that I had two plugs mixed up, and voila! She runs great!

From what I'm told, this using the OBD1 parts and ECU with the OBD2 engine just isn't done... but I don't understand why. It was incredibly easy... only problem that arose was an air leak from an improperly installed intake (mea culpa)... it seems that, given the ease and low cost, this would be the preferred way... *scratches head*

Also found out that the "D4" blinking is the transmission's equivalent to a check engine light... which was solved when everything was switched back to OBD1.
 
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heres the wiring diagram ....

So heard anything from your bro yet ?
 

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