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F22 head swap question!

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by Bird333, Apr 12, 2004.

  1. Bird333

    Bird333 Member

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    I got a 96 Accord LX that I am interested in putting a F22 VTEC head on. My only question is how do I wire up vtec with the LX harness? I need to know if I can asap, because I may be buying the head from a guy. Btw, I got the ECU issue covered.

    Thanks!
     
  2. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    You would need to add a VTEC pressure switch, and wire the solenoid. This means you'd be adding two wires from the engine to the ECU, and grounding the solenoid.

    Just having VTEC is not going to make the difference you want. 10 more horsepower, and very little more torque. I don't think it is worth the trouble.

    Other options, off the top of my head:
    • Put in a good cam. VTEC would give you a little more performance by adjusting your valve timing and control. A better cam could make more power with less trouble.
    • Boost it. More money, but lots more power.
    • Naws. Same thing.
    • H22. Better platform, more power. More money. Your choice.
     
  3. Bird333

    Bird333 Member

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    Do I need the connector that plugs into the switch (is there one) or do I just solder bare wires to the switch?

    Here is a quote from an article about this. Can someone please explain this? It is not clear to me. If you want to read the whole article here is the url: http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum/showt...=&threadid=1526

    Prepping the wiring harness:

    For the most part this will remain unchanged, but a couple things do need to be added and one item moved. You'll be
    adding 3 wires:

    1.) VTEC solenoid trigger
    2.) VTEC pressure sender
    3.) ground wire for VTEC pressure sender

    Add these 3 wires to the thermostat housing/EGR area of the wiring harness and we'll discuss ECU pinouts later in
    the how-to.

    Now the item that needs to be moved is the IAC / EACV (whatever you wanna call it) plug & wires [2]. You'll find
    this plug on the plastic injector wiring bar. Open the plastic injector wiring bar and pull out as much of it as
    you can from there. Cut the connector off and untape the harness enough to get the 2 wires heading toward the TPS
    sensor connector. You're going to have to solder about 12-14" of wire to make it reach. I just loomed the TPS & IAC
    together and made a Y so they could reach their respective recepticals. As I said earlier this is the OPTIMAL time
    to totally retape & loom the wiring harness if yours looks bad like mine did.
     
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