Fried ECU

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92civicb18b1

92civicb18b1

The Trisexual
Due to me being real impatient and not wanting to wait for the ECU I think mine's gone.

I get power to everything non-ecu related, headlights, interior lights, that stupid buzzer thing etc.. But no juice to anything else, no check engine, hazards, blinkers etc..

Fried ECU...
Yes..?
No...?

Whaddya think
 
Originally posted by 92civicb18b1@Nov 11 2004, 09:59 PM
Due to me being real impatient and not wanting to wait for the ECU I think mine's gone.
[post=415598]Quoted post[/post]​
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What do you mean by being impatient? What did you do? Have you checked your fuses?
 
I didnt want to wait for the p75 so I was using the stock CX ECU, with a ghettofied obd0 to obd1 dizzy.

All the fuses I checked were fine.
 
Hazards and blinkers are not ECU related....check the rest of the fuses and your "ghettofied" wiring before you apply power to it again.
 
I coulda sworn the hazards were linked in with the ECU..I could be wrong.
I know for a fact the turn signals are linked with the hazards.

Only the dizzy is ghetto because it was an OBD0 converted to OBD1, and it was done right. I just consider it ghetto because its all spliced.

I'll check all the fuses but I highly doubt that's my problem.
 
I rechecked the fuses. None were blown. Hazards do work fine, turn signals don't. I'll figure that out later though.

As for the ECU I really think it's fried cause everything was fine yesterday.

I had a helms, sold it when I finished my first swap.
 
Originally posted by 92civicb18b1@Nov 11 2004, 11:09 PM
I had a helms, sold it when I finished my first swap.
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Get another Helms. I keep adding to my collection of them.
 
I'm defenitly gonna invest in another one. I actually only used it once the first swap. And that's cause I couldn't figure out which way the linkage went together.

I'm sure it would be much helpful now, my vacuum lines are outta control.
 
You can't convert an OBD0 distributor to OBD1 easily.
I'm very curious what you did... In order to do this conversion properly, you need to take apart the distributor and swap the 16 tooth OBD1 reluctor for a 24 tooth OBD1 reluctor... Having the wrong reluctor wheel for CKP will cause car to not start / run like ass.

Regardess of any distributor kung-fu, you should hear the fuel pump kick on + see CEL at startup for 2 seconds. Check your fuses, and then check to see if you are getting +12v to the appropriate pins on the ECU with the key in the on position.

Andy FYI, the CX P05 should be able to at least start+idle the LS.
 
yea I know all that, thats why i know it's fried.

No CEL, No Fuel pump.

I ran the P06 on my first swap for more than a month and it worked fine.

Ha, I didnt actually convert it, I just made it so the electrical connections would connect...which in turn fried the ECU, just like pissedoff said it would. If I had done it right I wouldn't be having this problem, I didn't want to wait for the dizzy in the mail either.
 
I call bullshit.

I've connected OBD0 dizzies to OBD1 ECUs before. The car will run, but things are very unhappy. Nothing fries - the ECU receives an incorrect signal and thinks the motor is running much slower

I still say you need to check and see if you have +12v at the ECU plugs. I'm willing to bet the answer is no.
 
wrong,
ecu was fried. I'm not an electrical god but as soon as I swapped the ECU everything came back on. I don't know anything about the electrics inside or out of the dizzy or ECU.

Either way, now there is defenitly something wrong. The P06 i got in there now holds up fine for it. But whenever the dizzy is connected it immediately blows the Ignition fuse. I figure I just wait for the right dizzy and work from there, whihc woulda been the smartest thing right from the beginning.
 
I think I may use it and see what I can do with it. Maybe play around with different chips if I can get it working again.

I'm not an expert so I thought I could learn with it.
 
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