H22 running EXTREMELY rich

[ReDLiNe_9700K]

im having a problem with my car running EXTREMELY rich...its running to the point where the first 5000 rpm's it feels like im pulling a fuckin tractor trailer and once it hits vtec the thing is like a beast from 5200 on..i only feel the pull once hits VTEC. and my air/ fuel guage dosent even move now it stays on rich throughout all rpm ranges. what can i do to lower the fuel range? cuz it causing a serious loss of power off the line and i can even feel the car trying to pull but you can tell that theirs something restricting it .someone suggested a VAFC but i have an aftermarket mugen p13 in it so it might counteract with it...what do u suggest i do

 

[dave_255]

i think im having the same problem any suggestions

 

[kingmarc63]

i had the same problem stemming from the same shitty mugen p13 ecu
I had 2 solutions (maybe there is more):
1. get rid of the mugen chipped ecu and go back stock
2. get a vafc to tune out some of the richness of the mugen p13.
(which will be counteracting it because all the ecu is doing is dumping a shit load of fuel)
mugen ecu does 3 things: removes the speed limiter, ups the rev limiter and dump too much fuel. Good luck

 

[TeamUrbanChaos]

damn this must be a really common thing with these fucking aftermarket chipped ECU cuz the same shit is somewhat happening to mine too. i got the jun chipped p13 and my air fuel gauge always reads rich from 1000 rpms to 8000 rpms but when VTEC kicks in it feels like a DAMN mustang... its just keeps pulling and pulling. but the first 5500 rpms theres a hugh amount of hesistation in pick-up. i thoought it might have been 1 of 3 things.

1) that ECU is dumping a shit load of fuel into the motor and probably has fuel maps from a god damn boeing 747

2) i never got around to change my timing belt also because i didnt kno how to and maybe it needs to be changed or possibly the timings off but i dont think its that cuz the motor ovibously came out of a working car and it runs fine

3) maybe its the complete opposite.. maybe its not gettting enoughf fuel and the fuel pump it working twice as hard to pump fuel and cant keep up with the demand of fuel under extreme conditions.



but i really think that its the ECU thats doing the dammage but at the same thime i also think i have a weak fuel pump so that might be it but it seems the this is happening to everyone that has an aftermarket ECU.

 

[dohch22a4]

Chipped ECU's that don't utilize a standalone like Hondata and Uberdata are dog shit. Just go buy a stock H22 ECU. What is it, P13 or something like that? You'll run correctly and make more power with the stock ECU over some eBay chipped piece of junk.

 

[dohcvtec_accord]

I think everyone is discovering firsthand the problems associated with the shitty-ass "tuner-chipped" ECU's. They're a generic tune and they're also tuned on the safe (i.e. rich) side of things, so you won't blow up your engine by installing one of those worthless ECU's in your car. The obvious solution here is to get a stock P13 ECU and install it. That ECU ran my car like a champ.

As suggested, you could also get a VAFC or some other fuel map-altering device, but you'll want to tune it on a dyno to make sure you're not doing even more damage than the Ebay ECU did originally.

 

[reckedracing]

i concur, chipped = shit...

i would only run something like that if i knew it was straight from mugen and from a very reliable source, but even then i prefer stock...

your air fuel may not be working right, thats the first suggestion i have for you, the second is run a stock ecu...
fuck the vtec controller, STICK TO STOCK...
"mugen" chip and then VAFC on top of that, you are just asking for trouble..

my third suggestion is that you should advance your timing, i have seen this so many times... H22's are dogs off the line, but once you advance the timing its almost double as fast getting to vtec, its really amazing the diffrence it makes...

 

[tab]

I agree. I wouldn't run a chip unless I knew it was tuned to my specific engine in MY CAR.

 

[ReDLiNe_9700K]

well i guess i have no choice but to get the VAFC and call it a day because its really not going to be cost effective for me to get a stock P13 and a VAFC and i also have no knock sensor so im going to need one of those as well but im hoping that the VAFC will retard the timing and lower the damn fuel curve a little.. its to the point where i turn the car on and you can smell the fuel and whenever i step on the gas from idle the car pings before it initially revs EVERYTIME so somethign needs to be changed and i think that ECU is fucking up my shit

 

[bluenutz5]

yea i have the same prob....i have a skunk2 chip on my p28 for my h22...
how much do u suggest to advance the timing?

 

[reckedracing]

pinging at bottom end def sounds like either shitty gas or a severe timing issue

i had the same problem...

loosen your distributor and pull the throttle to like 2500 rpm and twist the dist back and forth till you get it in the right spot... then see if you still get the pinging

 

[reckedracing]

whenever i step on the gas from idle the car pings before it initially revs EVERYTIME so somethign needs to be changed and i think that ECU is fucking up my shit

also sounds like maybe a tune up would help you out along with higher octane gas

 

[bluenutz5]

Originally posted by reckedracing@Jan 14 2005, 10:46 AM
i concur, chipped = shit...

i would only run something like that if i knew it was straight from mugen and from a very reliable source, but even then i prefer stock...

your air fuel may not be working right, thats the first suggestion i have for you, the second is run a stock ecu...
fuck the vtec controller, STICK TO STOCK...
"mugen" chip and then VAFC on top of that, you are just asking for trouble..

my third suggestion is that you should advance your timing, i have seen this so many times... H22's are dogs off the line, but once you advance the timing its almost double as fast getting to vtec, its really amazing the diffrence it makes...

[post=445561]Quoted post[/post]​

how much do u suggest advancing the timing? and what do u guys think i should set my vtec at?

 

[reckedracing]

loosen your distributor and pull the throttle to like 2500 rpm and twist the dist back and forth till you get it in the right spot... then see if you still get the pinging

what aren't you getting here

no two cars are alike so there is no preset value i can give you here

your car is fucked up, so i advise you turn your distributor until it sounds like its not pinging and not a pig off idle...

and you should set your vtec at FUCKING STOCK
you are using a chipped ecu with some wack ass program that is NOT MADE FOR YOUR EXACT CAR... and then trying to throw a VAFC on top of it cause you THINK its running too rich

you would be smart to just run a fucking stock P13 and not try some ghetto shit with the VAFC, but obviously smart and you do not mix well together

and in case you missed it... TURNING THE DISTRIBUTOR WILL ADVANCE OR RETARD YOUR TIMING.... turn it back and forth until you get it into a position where it doesn't ping and isn;t a pig off idle, this is not a challenging concept...
you simply loosen the dist bolts, then turn it to various positions and hit the throttle in each new position, if its WORSE, then thats not the right position... trial and error here...

what octane are you running?

 

[ReDLiNe_9700K]

i usually run mobil 93

 

[reckedracing]

my response was directed at bluenutz5, but i have seen something exactly like your car where the h22 is guttless until it hits vtec

this happened to my friends accord and he was thinking of getting an msd system, or a vafc cause he thought it was a computer or timing issue, but we advanced his timing via turning the distributor and it made a HUGE HUGE diffrence, thats where i would advise you start, i'm pretty sure this will help your bogging before hitting vtec

 

[TeamUrbanChaos]

well i havent actually gotten time to change my timing belt yet maninly cuz the cars off the road and i dont kno how to do it so but im try your distributor thing and see how that works

 

[reckedracing]

well i havent actually gotten time to change my timing belt yet maninly cuz the cars off the road and i dont kno how to do it so but im try your distributor thing and see how that works

changing your timing belt isn't that hard to do if you know about cars... i suggest getting a helmes manual as they are the most complete... but before you do that you can check auto zone's website for their repair section, they have the steps to changing your timing belt along with pictures of your timing marks and how to put it back together correctly

i;m sure you know this, but the timing belt is quite essential so just follow the directions EXACTLY and you should be ok, if in doubt rotate the engine by ratchet to make sure there's no clear interaction between piston and valve before you start it up...

 

[ReDLiNe_9700K]

yea it may not be hard to change but ive never done one before and ive seen too many of my friends fuck up their valves or even seize their motor because of a bad timing job. theres too many thing that could go wrong and the chance of something happening is way too likely. and on top of that i need a hoist dont i?? because im gonna have to drop the motor out correct?

 

[reckedracing]

no hoist needed, just jack up the motor and remove the mount...

and yea, its possible to fuck up your motor but you have 3 timing marks to worry about, one on each cam and one on your crank... thats it...
and if you spin it over by hand to make sure everything clears then you're usually in the clear...