h22 temp issues

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driver1

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My car doesnt heat up to normal operating temp, alot of the time unless i leave the car running for a long period of time while sitting still. Ive tried changing the thermostat and the coolant and still no luck. The car hould run at about 190 or so thats what the temp of the thermostat i have is. Now the funny part is if i let it sit runnning it will slowly get to the 190 and the thermostat opens up and the fans kick on just like everything should. :blink: Laso i seem to be getting fairly poor gas mileage, like something around 200 mules a tank of 93 octane. I am not sure but i think this may have to do with the car runnign to cool? otherwise the only time the car will get hot is if its like a 90 degree day out and im beating the everliving hell out of it. Otherwise driving normally down the road it stays at like anywhere from 110 to like 140??? any help is appreciated

Matt
 
The thermostat should do it. Whether it is hot or cold outside, that thermostat shouldn't open until the desired temp. My H22 never gets hot either, even when I drive it hard. It does however get right up to temperature.

Your mileage will depend a lot on your foot. I don't get shit for mileage, but I'm leadfooting it almost everywhere I go. I also do mostly town driving.
 
Im not understanding your question, are asking why your motor doesnt fully warm up? Mine stays about 1-2 bars below the middle even when im racing but i have a 1200cfm slimline fan so i wouldnt know if thats whats making it stay so cool.
 
no what im askin is why it doesnt run at normal operating temp....the car will not come up to the normal 190 degress unless it ists running or its really hot outside and im beatin on it. Otherwise normal driving around it will never come past 140 degrees...i have an autometer watertemp gauge.
 
If your car is not cooling well enough, there can be a number of things going wrong. However, if your car is not heating up well enough, the possibilities shrink dramatically.

I still think it's your thermostat. If your fans aren't running all the time, then what else could it be? You don't blow cold air over the engine or have a kick ass oil cooler that I know of.

You have a temp guage right? Test a pot of water at boiling. I don't know what level you are at, but of course sea level(where I am) is 212 deg. F. If the guage is close, lower the temp of the water to 140 degrees or so, and test the thermostat. You know it doesn't take long at all to pull. When you see the thermostat open, read the temperature guage. It shouldn't open until roughly 180 or so. I know 140 is low, but I think 190 is on the high side for the H22. I could be wrong.

That's what I would do. Also, and this is important, check the condition of the thermostat. My car was the same way last year. There was a rubber seal between the valve and the housing of the thermostat. Half of that rubber was gone. That 1/16 of an inch gap can flow a lot of water, letting cool water into the engine..................It runs fucking cold. It took me 15 minutes of driving to warm up the car. I fixed the thermostat, and now it takes <4 min of driving.

Hope I helped. :thumbsup:
 
well first off i dont have a stove in my garage that i can boil a pot of water on and test my temp sensor for my gauge but as i said im quite sure its not the gauge be cause as soon as it reads around 190 the thrmostat opens up and the fans kick on as they should.
also as i stated in the first post i already changed the thermostat once...no luck still the same deal...the only thing i could do is pull it and check it to see if there are any gaps like you said but i dont belive there would be as i just replaced it last yr, and have since only put about 1000 miles on it.
 
Originally posted by driver1@Jun 1 2004, 09:54 PM
well first off i dont have a stove in my garage that i can boil a pot of water on and test my temp sensor for my gauge but as i said im quite sure its not the gauge be cause as soon as it reads around 190 the thrmostat opens up and the fans kick on as they should.
also as i stated in the first post i already changed the thermostat once...no luck still the same deal...the only thing i could do is pull it and check it to see if there are any gaps like you said but i dont belive there would be as i just replaced it last yr, and have since only put about 1000 miles on it.

I believe you. I mentioned it because of my experience. Best of Luck. :)

Oh, also, the fans are controlled by temperature switches seperate from a sensor.
My car has a ECT, IAT, two switches, and a dash sender. You probably know that, I'm not trying to be an ass.
 
also if my cra sits and heats up to normaql operating temp, as soon as i drive it down the road it drops back down to like 140..... :blink: ?
 
My car always cools well. I haven't heard my fans come on except when I popped my radiator. If I hear the fans, something's wrong. :blink: :blink: :blink:
 
Originally posted by driver1@Jun 2 2004, 09:15 PM
ya but when you car comes up to normal opertaing temp will it go back down if you drive it?

Well, just so we're clear on this......My car usually runs approx 1/3 of the way into the normal range. It won't vary 1/8 of an inch from there, no matter how I drive, or what season. I can let it idle for an hour, doesn't matter. The temp guage did go up slightly when I was pulling a 1000 lb trailer(yes I have a hitch and a trailer. :lol: ). Even that instance was an uphill pull at 80 mph on the freeway, with a passenger.

Other than that, no. My temp does not drop when I drive. If airflow around your engine and through your fan cools your engine off too much, then the thermostat isn't doing it's job. I can't think of any other device that would dramatically cool your engine by just driving, unless you added some other form of cooling. Of course, there is the heater core, which in itself is a mini radiator. If you crank the heat up, and turn on the fan, that might contribute.

I'm as stumped as you. I just can't say what is normal for your car. I run on the low side of normal, with a stock radiator. I have the stock thermostat, which I fixed with high quality sealant. My local parts store gave me the wrong thermostat, and it was an evening fix. It didn't take that long. I still bought the right thermostat, but everything is still fine, so I don't feel like pulling it.

I must strain that the gap I spoke of was very tiny. I tested the thermostat, which I thought was stuck open. It wasn't stuck at all. :shrug2: A little sealant, presto, heat and VTEC in under 3 minutes of driving.
 
hmmm i dunno it just doesnt seem right to me....i have no toher form of cooling other than my thermostat and radiator but the one other thing that i could think of is that i have no hood seals on my hood (in the front where they go) i dont know if this is making things much cooler than normal or not.....i dunno it runs god and all and vtec works shortly after ive been drivin and it warms up some. also does less than or right around 200 miles per tank seem right on 93 octane gas? cause to me that seems quite low and that is what im getting ruoghly and only worse if i drive it hard
 
evey now and a agin it will throw a code but most of the time no, i pulled the code out of it a long time ago when it threw it but its been so long now i dont remember.....also it does it very rarely so i havent botyhered with it in a long time
 
if your car is not getting up to proper temperature, u may have a faulty engine water temp sensor, try changing that, i had a problem with it, gas mileage does go down when this sensor starts to fail, because it tells the car the vehilce is either to cold or to hot, and runs the vehicle rich or lean. hopefully this will help u out
 
Hey, im a new member and stumbled across this when I was serching temp sensor issues. Im thinking my 1993 sir accord has a problem with its sensor as it has very poor fuel economy, 400 kms per tank. It also blows alot of black smoke out the exhaust. If anyone out there knows anything about this, could you please let me no. Cheers.
 
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not exactly sure whats causing that problem, but usually just changing the map on the ecu helps that (i say it like its easy, but it usually costs around 300 minimum to do that).

thats all im gonna say for now, please dont bring back OLD threads. i really like the fact that youre searching, but if you dont find your answer in the search, please, just make a new thread.

:locked:
 
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