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H22A rebuild

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by accordguy, Mar 15, 2006.

  1. accordguy

    accordguy Member

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    Ok guys just to make a long story short, I got screwed on eBay with a JDM H22A. So now I’m trying to turn a negative into a positive. Since the 2nd and 4th cylinders are pretty much blown (very low compression) I will now do a rebuild and hopefully end up with a much better motor then I could ever get from an importer.

    I just want you guy’s opinion on what I should replace and which parts should be after market parts or OEM parts. For the aftermarket parts which brands should I go with.

    I have never done a rebuild before so this information would be helpful.
     
  2. 2.3 prelude

    2.3 prelude Member

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    why does that not surprise me ebay wise
     
  3. jdmh22hatch

    jdmh22hatch Member

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    Use OEM pistons and rings unless you're going to sleeve it, then the skies the limit. Do not run forged pistons on the stock sleeves or you'll be in for a lot more trouble and money then you bargained for. If anything, possibly mahle pistons on the stock sleeves ( this is much debatable though, I read some good and some bad, so do a lot of research before purchasing) but personally I wouldn't. Also keep in mind future plans (forced induction or nitrous). If this is the case, sleeving is the only really reliable way to go.
    If your pistons and cylinder walls are in good condition, then you'll be able to get away with just rings and you'll be good to go. You could do much more, I don't know your budget and hp goals.
     
  4. accordguy

    accordguy Member

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    My goals are to simply get the motor to OEM spec and power, my budget is around 12-15 hundred.
     
  5. jdmh22hatch

    jdmh22hatch Member

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    You have more of a budget than I had, so you can easily restore your engine to OEM specs and power. I changed my pistons, but only because I had broken ringlands on 1-3. I got lucky and my cylinder walls were fine. You're not gonna know exactly what condition everything is in until you get it opened up, but if your pistons and cylinder walls are fine, then you're only into it for a set of rings and a head gasket. Would recommend changing belts, pulleys, water pump and an auto to manual tensioner swap, but only to save yourself future trouble. LOL - I didn't, and I had future trouble. My engine has a lot more miles on it and was blown up on spray, so you shouldn't have as many problems. More precautionary than anything. Plus labor if you're not doing this yourself.
     
  6. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    oil pump, water pump, belts, tensioner, not the pulleys, rings, maybe pistons, head gasket, change of all fluids.
     
  7. HatchSpeeD

    HatchSpeeD ...Hi...

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    Just to clarify, #3 cly. is not really holding compression/very low. Wouldn't even break 60psi. 1 & 4 were in the 200's & # 2 was around 180ish. I heard it could be the headgasket, but its very doubtful. Most likely the rings or bent valve correct? If hes going to have this motor apart, he might as well change the rings, bearings & maybe do a little minor head work...depending on the cost. What do you guys recommend for bearings & such, OEM or something like ACL? How big is the price difference? Also, the rod bolts/head bolts etc...oem (used, new) or ARP?
     
  8. HatchSpeeD

    HatchSpeeD ...Hi...

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  9. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    I'd go OEM, unless you need extra strength. Re-tap the holes and clean the threads on the old stuff, it'll be fine. You'll notice damage.

    OEM bearings last a long time, but I'd probably buy them new, unless you are not turning the crank, and the bottom end is good.
     
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