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H22A4 to JDM H22A swap NO SPARK! PLEASE HELP

Discussion in 'Prelude' started by DoubleAron42, Nov 29, 2009.

  1. DoubleAron42

    DoubleAron42 New Member

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    Ok so I'm freshly new at this forum stuff other than doing a little reasearch. This is number 1 post for me so forgive me if I've done it incorrectly or what-not. This swap is pissing me off to the point where I just want to get the damn thing out of my garage!

    But anyway here is the story. I agreed to swap a buddy's H22A4 out of his 99 Prelude for a 96 JDM H22A. I did a little reasearch on this and found that it is pretty much a direct swap other than doing a little re-wiring so the USDM wiring harness will accept the CKP and TDC sensors in the distributor. ( Didn't want to pull apart JDM Engine to swap oil pumps) Essentially I cut all the wires on the JDM Distributor and soldered on the USDM plugs (after doing a little wiring schematic research)(also would like to use US external coil). Then I made a jumper by soldering lengthened wire to the male end of the CKP/TDC connector and running it to the distributor. At the distributor I soldered the four lengthed wires to both sensors according to wiring schematic comparisons found on the web.
    JDM US
    CKP - BLU/GRN---------------- BLU
    BLU/YEL-----------------WHT
    TDC - ORN/BLU-----------------GRN
    WHT/BLU-----------------RED
    Parts from US put on JDM -
    Alternator
    A/c compressor
    Fuel injectors
    VTEC Solonoid & Housing
    May be forgetting a few things....but i know I DIDN'T change the Knock sensor because the US one broke and everything plugged in ok.

    Got everything hooked up and double checked. Went to start the car and it wouldn't start. Irregular/out of time/ weak spark. Preformed a spark test by pulling all four plugs out, connecting them to the plugwires and laying them on the valve cover. I turned the engine over while a buddy positioned the distributor so that all four plugs seemed to be gettin excellent spark at their given time. Tightened distributor in exact position and re-installed plugs and wires. No spark again (verified through another spark test). Replaced external coil, cap, button and put in a brand new battery. Still no spark. Checked power to coil-ok Checked plug gaps-ok. Checked power and gound to ICM- ok.Triple checked and cleaned grounds. Double checked fuses...

    Its almost like the computer is ordering it not to spark. could it be bad TDC/CKP sensors? they look in very good shape. I've read that a MAIN Relay could maybe be a cause but I am gettin fuel. Does anyone know about a bench test for the ICM?

    I cant figure out why it won't spark. If anyone has any helpful advice/information about this it would be grately appreciated. thanks
     
  2. DESPAIN

    DESPAIN yep....mmhhm.......yep...

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    check your dizzy and make sure all the plugs on the dizzy are making good connection. also check the grounds. also try using the other right dizzy. sounds like you got some wires mixed up.
     
  3. ziggyb20b

    ziggyb20b New Member

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    have u gotten anywhere with ur lude man ive got a 98 & im having the same problem!! i cant believe there isnt someone who can help?? ive got a H23A blue top, p28 & obd1 conversion harness with an obd1 dizzy ...my cyp/ckp/tdc wired right to the ecu my injectors are opening but no spark & ive replaced everything coil tests good gettin 12v to according wires can not figure out whats going on??? please iv lost money and sleep over this if any1 can help even random suggestions
     
  4. 1991 honda accord f22a1

    1991 honda accord f22a1 New Member

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    well it sounds to me that its probably a ground, if ur getting spark to the plugs then the should start,,,,but the only thing i can think of is maybe when u put the plugs in the block that it grounds it out check all of ur ground and negitive wires its like something simple....
     
  5. mysi92

    mysi92 HTI Werkstatt

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    To run the JDM H22A You will need to use your stock wiring harness and ECU. Also, you will need to swap over your H22A-4 oil pump w/ crank position and TDC sensors (not hard at all). As well, you will need to run your H22A-4 distributor (again, not hard at all). You will need to use the injectors from your H22A-4 also. The JDM type S engine might require a different ECU, I can't say for sure.

    Moved over the following from the old H22A4 motor:

    a) Wiring Harness (OBD-II)
    b) Distributor
    c) Coolant Thermostat Housing
    d) Oil Pump Housing
    e) Crank Position Sensor and Top Dead Sensor (attached to OBD-II oil pump)
    f) Exhaust header (JDM 4th Gen is different)
    g) Intake manifold (if not using 5G IM, then move your fuel injectors over and get a 4G MAP sensor)
    h) Knock sensor (BE VERY CAREFUL TAKING THIS OFF, THE CONNECTOR BREAKS EASILY)
    i) Oil Pressure Sensor
    j) Oil Pan & baffle
    k) Oil Pan/Transmission Stiffener
    l) Various gears from the timing belt side (crank gears especially - required for CKP/TDC sensors)
    m) VTEC solenoid pressure switch (the connector seemed to be different on the H22A one?)


    Onto the list of things you need to swap over:

    1) The P5M (USDM H22A4) motor wiring harness.

    2) The H22A4 knock sensor, usually they break, but should still be same PN

    3) The H22A4 VTEC Solenoid - the connectors are different.

    4) The H22A4 oil pump assembly.

    5) The CKP and TDC sensors - doesn't exist on the OBD-I H22A.

    6) The crankshaft pulleys... all of them. Required for the sensors in #5 to work.

    7) The oil pan and baffle from the H22A4 - required to mount the stiffener and, therefore, the transmission on the 5th Gen.

    8) H22A4's Distributor

    9) The H22A4's Intake (The JDM H22A series is slightly different.) If you don't use the H22A4's intake, then you need to move your injectors over as they are different!

    10 The H22A4's Exhaust Header:cool:
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2010
  6. pjschmitt

    pjschmitt New Member

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    I would check the connection of the ground wires that control the ECU and everything else. It is on the driver side or intake manifold and connects to the IM with a 10mm bolt.

    Then I would check to see if all the ground wires are connected and go from their.

    It can only be spark or fuel right?

    Is the fuel pump priming when you turn the key on but not starting the engine for like 5 seconds each time?

    Hope this helps.

    Probably something minor.
     
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