how much stronger are oem ITR axles ?

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stmotorsports

stmotorsports

Senior Member
car in question is a boosted B16 powered 2000 Civic Si. The kid I got the car from put NAPA oem-replacement axles in the car and at least one of them is bad already. I'm just wondering if I would be ok with ITR axles or should I get something like Hasports? Budget is always a factor so I'd hate to drop $$ that I really don't have to.

thx in advance for input :)
 
im runing on stock axels on my civic with ls/vtec turbo with 17 psi and im fine but is up to u how u drive the car and if you drive hard then you need strong axels:ph34r:
 
Make your choice depending on how you drive and how much ponys your laying down.

IMO If your going over 200whp than get new axles.
 
OEM axles aren't going to be any stronger, whether they're ITR, GSR, Si, etc. Some good aftermarket axle manufacturers are Gator and DriveShaftShop...I've got Gators in my CRX right now, and I love them. Before that the axles were in a friend of mine's 11.30 hatch, and before that they were in my old allmotor 89 hatch...so they've taken over 2 years of 200+whp abuse, and still have zero problems. DriveShaftShop, on the other hand, I'm not too fond of. Another personal friend of mine had the DSS stage 3's with upgraded DSS hubs, and broke the axle shaft REPEATEDLY...I've noticed on H-T that many people feel exactly the opposite (Gator sucks and DSS is the shit), so I'm going to venture out and say that they're both good axles, and like any other product some people have bad experiences and some have good experiences. I can personally vouch for Gator axles being the shit, though.

Another factor that will affect your axle breakage is how low your car is (the lower your car is the more your CV joints are put in a bind, and will cause them to wear out and/or break) and what type of clutch you have. A puck clutch (or a stage 3/4/whatever) is going to beat the hell out of your axles on hard launches, whether you've got high HP axles or not.
 
hmm I may have to go with some type of aftermarkets then, I'll be running over 200whp and 140-150wtq. The car isn't that low, currently sitting on H&R sports so prob ~1.5ish drop front. Not sure how long I'm going to keep this setup tho, since I'm planning on eventually going k-series so I dunno if it would be worth it getting $$$ high-hp axles

so ITR axles are no stronger at all? not even slightly? why the diff part # then?

like I said earlier I think the axles that are in the car now need replacing anyways and I already talked to the guy at the parts store and he said he could exchange them for ITR ones, thats kinda why I was wondering if ITR ones would be any better
 
well heres the latest scoop- the guy at the parts store told me I can bring the axles currently in the car and exchange them for the ITR versions, but they're still napa axles. Since I know alot of peeps that have had probs with the napa axles (including myself in multiple cars now), I'm wondering if maybe I should do the exchange but not install them in the car & just see if I can sell them off and find genuine oem axles in the meantime... would I be better off with new napa replacements or used oem ones?

any thoughts?
 
look on honda tech and read some of the reviews and comparisons on axles but you can not go wrong with drive shaft shop... as a side note i have broken many many raxles dont use them and i even broke my gators and bought drive shaft shop stage 2.5s and havent had a single problem.
 
I say upgrade might be more expensive but you'll only have to do the job once, hopefully. saves you time working on the car and keeps the car on the road instead of on jackstands.
 
all you guys that keep breaking axles- what kind of hp/tq are you running? what kind of driving- autox/drag/?? lot of launching/clutch drops?

even after I do the bottom end swap and up the boost later this year, I should only be running around 240-250whp/150-160wtq. I rarely do any super hard launches or clutch drops, just mostly aggressive street driving and autox. are high hp axles necessary even for this?
 
well the car has an itr trans in it and hubs should be the same right? i thought the only difference between b-series axles were the 98+ jdm itr had the larger 36mm hubs and on the jdm driver side axles/intermediate shafts the male-female are reverse of the usdm versions neither of which would matter because we're talking usdm itr axles on a usdm b-series non-abs car

somebody correct me if I'm wrong cause I was going to go pick up the axles tomorrow and try to put them in, I'd rather not waste a couple hrs if it's certain that this won't work
 
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