I need a good Jet Black paint color...

[ssl2k]

Alright just to give ya a little bit of background information....

this car is owned by my gf's brother. It is a '86 monte carlo w/ a built 454. All motor it pulls like 500hp and he is setting it up for like a 150 or 200hp n2o shot.

The car is extremely mean lookin...large street tires in the back, and has a nice big chrome blower/air intake in the hood.

Alright. That is cool and all but he wants it painted jet black. And he wants to go with a decent brand of paint (why not right? the kid has money to spend).

driver1, i know that you like martin senior paint...can you give me a good jet black color code if you know of one. I don't mind going with martin senior products, i know they are good. But will i get anything special out of using ppg/dupot/house of kolor type paints if im just lookin for a nice jet black color?

What is the price differences between ppg/ dupot/ martin senior?

And this is a full size car...so i'm thinkin i'll need roughly 3 quarts of paint right? Is that about right or should I just go with a gallon?

and i'm going to prolly buy a gallon of primer = $200 for martin senior + a gallon of clear coat.

does this seem about right or am i going to be buying way too much paint?

any advice is welcome

nathan

 

[driver1]

as far as a good jet black base color , i wouldnt be able to give you a code off the top of my head...but i weill ask my paint rep tommorow. You just want a standard black without any metallic i assume thats what u mean by jet black? as far as what advantages there are between paint manufacturers, there really isnt any if all your lookin for it a fairly standard black with no metallic. Price differences all depend on whether you use the best paint that each manufacturer makes , and as far as all that goes theyre relativley close in price.
3 quarts should be plenty for that car, shouldnt be any need for a gallon. as far as primer goes get a gallon of 5102 martin seniour uretane primer which you will need 5155 tec hardener for and also ts3 tec solvent (reducer). a quart of each of those will be plenty for the gallon of primer. Your gonna want to mix it 4:1:10%....4 patrs primer 1 part hardener and 10% tec solvent....this way you will get a nice build and be able to block it out nice to nake it super straight. and yes your gonna need to buy a gallon of clearcoat, you wont use it all but you gonna need that much because you will use more than a half gallon.

Any other questions lety me know...i havent had time yet to write up an article but when i get time to i will, Maybe if i do one in enough deatil with all the martin seniour mixing ratios i know and what not, i cold get some moderator status out of the deal.

 

[ssl2k]

Okay Yeah I just want a strict black paint. extremely glossy.

so here is my little plan ... i figure that 95% of a good black paint job is in prep work on the primer so...

1. lay down the good high build primer then wet sand to either 1000 grit or 1500 grit?
2. spray w/ base coat
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now i don't know what i should do, i just read that other big thread where you're dicussing a black paint job.

do i want to wet sand the black paint job or should i just run over it with a tac cloth to pull all of the overspray off? there shouldn't even be an over spray on this with martin senior paint correct?
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then spray the clear

now is there any special process that i want to do in order to get an extremely high gloss on this car? I want it to like just bust out and shine the hell out of everything.

someone was saying that i should spray like 2-3 coats of clear then wet sand w/ 1000grit then spray a few more layers of clear on and it'll be good?

thanks
nathan

 

[ssl2k]

btw, driver1 , what are the part numbers for the clear coat that im going to want to use??

The local napa guys told me that the ecnono body paint was a really good quality paint and i dont trust them compaired to you. ( seeing that you do this for work and they are just there to make the sale)

how much will the clear be for a gallon + reducer / harder for that for a good napa brand? (well you can just give me the product numers and i'll call)

what about for the 3 quarts for the black paint...what will they roughly charge me?

nathan

 

[tab]

Originally posted by ssl2k@Jul 28 2004, 09:19 PM
Okay Yeah I just want a strict black paint. extremely glossy.

so here is my little plan ... i figure that 95% of a good black paint job is in prep work on the primer so...

1. lay down the good high build primer then wet sand to either 1000 grit or 1500 grit?
2. spray w/ base coat
--------
now i don't know what i should do, i just read that other big thread where you're dicussing a black paint job.

do i want to wet sand the black paint job or should i just run over it with a tac cloth to pull all of the overspray off? there shouldn't even be an over spray on this with martin senior paint correct?
---------------
then spray the clear

now is there any special process that i want to do in order to get an extremely high gloss on this car? I want it to like just bust out and shine the hell out of everything.

someone was saying that i should spray like 2-3 coats of clear then wet sand w/ 1000grit then spray a few more layers of clear on and it'll be good?

thanks
nathan

[post=369520]Quoted post[/post]​

99% of a black paintjob is the prep work. ANY imperfection, during the steps will cause a blemish, or worse. Hopefully there are no bad spots in the black base. If there are, you have to wetsand the whole thing, or sand and respray. I had a bunch of buddies walking in to check out my progress while I was doing black before. I had to start over, because the opening of the plastic I hung was enough to fling dust over the whole job. Do not have bystanders. A tack cloth is a good idea.
I'll let driver1 tell you the mixing instructions, since you'll be using his favorite kind of paint.
For a really deep looking finish, more clear helps. 2-4 coats is about all you want to do in one application. I usually do 3. Wetsand as per paint instructions after cure period, then I shoot 4 four more.

With seven coats of clear(shot properly), you better be able to buff the shit out of that thing. It looks like a sheet of glass over the paintjob, and feels like you can't touch the paint at all. I use different products than driver1, but only because my local NAPA is ran by idiots. There is an automotive paintshop closeby that specializes in painting cars. It's a family business, and they are very knowledgable about many products.

Oh, and I don't know what the paint will cost, since it all depends on the product. But I usually spend 200-400 in supplies. Basic paint and shit, is over a hundred. Base/Clear, maybe 100-200. Base/Clear/Primer, probably 300. Base/Clear/Primer/masking supplies/buffing compounds, probably 400.

Just a stab. You can spend $700 on a base coat, and $75 on a clear. Or, you could spend 100 on base, and 200 on clear. Name brands and proprietary colors can kill you.

 

[tab]

Also, Fleet black is a color I used before. It's just a standard black, and it looks great. It's about as cheap as I could find.

By proprietary, I meant that Viper yellow is about $700. Ford Probe yellow is about $100. They're both just a bright yellow, but the name and copyright causes a huge price jump. When you chose a color, many times that color will be mixed using the same base, and of course the same kinds of tint. In slightly different proportions of the same product, you pay 7 times as much. That's commerce.

 

[driver1]

Originally posted by ssl2k@Jul 28 2004, 09:23 PM
btw, driver1 , what are the part numbers for the clear coat that im going to want to use??

The local napa guys told me that the ecnono body paint was a really good quality paint and i dont trust them compaired to you. ( seeing that you do this for work and they are just there to make the sale)

how much will the clear be for a gallon + reducer / harder for that for a good napa brand? (well you can just give me the product numers and i'll call)

what about for the 3 quarts for the black paint...what will they roughly charge me?

nathan

[post=369521]Quoted post[/post]​

Econo-body is decent ...i guess its what i use on any dealer work i do for my brother or any toher cheap shitball job that i do...take what u want from that, then decide for yourself and after u do that tell your napa guy hes a tardcart. anywho...i use 8637 maximum performance clearcoat...it is very good and was the best stuff martin seniour carried until just recently when they released the i beleive tc730 which is supposed to be better. I do not know yet cause i have yet to use it. but anyhow you can take my word for it (which you dont seem to have a problem doing) that you will be more than satisfied with the 8637. My price at body shop discount for a gallon of clear and a quart of reducer and hardener(its mixed 4:1:1) is roughly 229 bucks or so...and as far as the black base goes it should be roughly 60 bucks a quartat the most.
As far as coats go your not gonna want to put more than 2 coats at once, and that is all martin seniour reccomends but if your not satisfied with the finish wetsand and apply two more coats. I wouldd not do more than that tho because to much product will lead to early paintjob failure. The reason TAB told of using 7 coats is prob because the pasint he uses is desinged to be used with more coats of clear to generate the perfect shine.

Once again im sorry i havent been able to get an article up yet, but as ive said before being a one man show owning your own business is alot of work and i work long hrs, also i recently turned 21 so ive spent some quality time in the bars as well. Otherwise ill get it up asap for you guys

 

[ssl2k]

alright...cool

i'll let ya know how it all goes down..

 

[tab]

Yeah. I used 7 coats, for the perfect shine. Show winner. You wanted a cheap, good paintjob. I'd use a cheap black, and a good clear. 2 coats can be a good paintjob. More coats is for the effect of depth, and is basically just for show. On my own car, I'll probably shoot 3 good coats of clear.