idle control valve
- Thread starter vg_Ace
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8ballsin
New Member
idel
ihave the same problem i justtook off my idel control valve a cleaned it now ihave a dumb question can i blow dry it to put it on faster or will that mess up the internals and the other question is i have a new one but it does not have the little screen how do i take it off to switch them out
ihave the same problem i justtook off my idel control valve a cleaned it now ihave a dumb question can i blow dry it to put it on faster or will that mess up the internals and the other question is i have a new one but it does not have the little screen how do i take it off to switch them out
check your actual fast idle valve as well under the throttle body - should have 1 coolant line that runs to it and unscrew 1 side and using a large screw driver tighten everything back down (can be done without removing the valve itself)
also could replace your IACV on teh back of teh intake manifold - or check your wires for it - wiring to the IACV gets damaged or goes out more often than the IACV itself.
could check your vac lines but check those 2 things first -
also could replace your IACV on teh back of teh intake manifold - or check your wires for it - wiring to the IACV gets damaged or goes out more often than the IACV itself.
could check your vac lines but check those 2 things first -
LS_VTEC
you get the BRAKE
It is much easier to repair a FITV if it is removed. Especially if the plunger is "loose". You have to press very hard inward and twist. The purpose of a FITV is to hold the idle up when the engine is cold. When the coolant temp. gets warmer, the plunger inside starts to close and lower the idle. If the idle does not surge when the engine is cold, only when warm, than I do not suggest bothering with the FITV. It is most likely a vacuum leak, or a faulty IACV.
As for the wiring getting damaged, thats not very probable. There is nothing back there to damage the harness or clip. The valves arent made to last forever. Especially the FITV.
8ballsin
New Member
idel
ok i just had the same problem iu just fixed it look at your ecu and if you are getting 3 and 5 flash code it is that map sensor i just changed mine and it is running perfect now i would suggest changing the map sensor it is really exspensive so if you can find one in the junk yard get it there and put it in your pocket try it if it works add to my rep
ok i just had the same problem iu just fixed it look at your ecu and if you are getting 3 and 5 flash code it is that map sensor i just changed mine and it is running perfect now i would suggest changing the map sensor it is really exspensive so if you can find one in the junk yard get it there and put it in your pocket try it if it works add to my rep
roninallout79
Plan B
Everyone having this problem check your ECU if its flashing either a code 3 or code 5 change your map sensor and the problem should go away.
90_EF_Hatch
Señor Member
where would the map sensor be located?
roninallout79
Plan B
Depends on what motor you have 8ballsin. Some motors have the map sensor on the fire wall. Some have it on the top of the throttle body remember??
I have done several still on the motor but I can also pull it off and repair it and have it back on in like 20 minutes max.
As far as the Wiring it "goes bad" more often than the valve - the valve doesn't move much and not much to it - who said it had to be the harness or clip - pull the motor out - have a bad torque mount - have a car sit for a while - electrical problems happen - and you are obviously new if you have never seen a wire that carries a consistent signal eventually die...I've had an 88 crx SI report and suspect the IACV bad and it was wiring then even - have had my newer civics do teh same.
LS_VTEC
you get the BRAKE
LOL new eh? I guess you could say im new to Honda's. Only 9 years experience and a few ASE certs. Your theory about "wiring carrying a 'consistent' signal"... lol ... one, it is called current flow. Two, every sensor on an engine that sends signals back to the ecu do the same. This is possible due to the wonderful Ohm's Law. Resistance. Everything electrical on an automobile rely's on resistance.
Unless its a rust bucket with a wiring hack job, 9 times out of ten its not the wiring UNLESS the obvious is shown when you look at it. Connections from the wiring maybe, but not so often. I speak from experience from not only Honda's, but just about every other make and model out there. I see different cars daily with all different types of issues, especially electrical. When you get in the field and learn as well as EARN your way up in the automotive field as I did than come see me. Not everyone has the same car, same engine and same problem your "friend" had on his civic and your theory was the cure.
EDIT: you said, a bad torque mount... Ive ran cars without even using the torque mounts. They are somewhat stationary so to speak. All they do is eliminate vibrations. Even a bad engine mount... the engine would have to literally drop out of the engine bay and hit the ground for any of those wires to be affected.
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idle problem
I have a 89 civic that I converted from dpfi to mpfi and have done many before. But this one for some reason is throwing code 14. Checked EACV/IACV on my other mpfi converted car and could hear it click open. Does not click open on the 89 for some reason. Checked all wires and ECU, its all good. I have problem when I start the car it instantly dies unless you hold the gas pedal at a steady RPM. Can not figure it out. Kinda the same as everyone else. Anything?
I have a 89 civic that I converted from dpfi to mpfi and have done many before. But this one for some reason is throwing code 14. Checked EACV/IACV on my other mpfi converted car and could hear it click open. Does not click open on the 89 for some reason. Checked all wires and ECU, its all good. I have problem when I start the car it instantly dies unless you hold the gas pedal at a steady RPM. Can not figure it out. Kinda the same as everyone else. Anything?
this thread was started because I was having an idling issue with my crx. I was advised to bleed the coolant and check the IACV. It turned out to be the IACV was dirty. After cleaning it, it completely solved the problem. Somehow this has gotten way off topic though. Post your responses in another New thread and you will get a better response. I don't understand why people are still posting in this thread.
charger11213
New Member
MY car is dong the same thing and its over heating i dont no why but the fan is not comeing on.
