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intake manifold, Ignition, water pump, Ect, ect

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by smooth_criminal, Oct 24, 2005.

  1. smooth_criminal

    smooth_criminal Senior Member

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    OK so on top of new pistons, rods, oil pump, all gaskets and seals.

    1. I'm also looking at getting a new intake manifold, From what i've read you only really see gains in the higher rpm range, Is this true? And if it is i guess it would be pointless on a boosted ls that doesn't plan on going over 8k.

    2. Ignition? Should i go with an after market setup or will my stock ignition hold true to 300whp?

    3. Will a GSR water pump fit my LS block? If so does it flow more? Would it be better to run the GSR or LS water pump?

    4. I'm still not sure of what fuel managment i'm going with. And i still am not 100% set on a tuiner yet. Anyone have any input on a great tuner in the new jersey area?

    5. What else would you guys go with? New radaitor? grounds?

    6. Valve train? What needs to be done to my head / block to hold 8k all day? I need the extra rev room for my turbo.

    Let me know.
     
  2. EGProject

    EGProject YEEEEAAHHHHH

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    Skunk 2, and STR make some good manifolds, but make sure to get a new TB with it as well, and have it port-matched.

    As far as ignition goes - I've heard the stock system will handle some extra horsepower, but MSD wires, MSD Blaster Cap and a Blaster SS/HVC external coil would be a good idea just in case.

    As for the waterpump, not much experience - so I don't really know if it will work.

    From what I've heard on here (mainly from [​IMG] Crome or Uberdata would be the way to go. Other names that I can think of (for not the much money) are Zydne, Xenocrome, and Hondata.

    If you have a new(er) raditor, I wouldn't worry about it. Just flush the system and add some water wetter to it. Change your thermostat with either a gutted OEM one (not recommended), or get a lower-temp one from PE, Mugen, Spoon, or whichever. If you drive the car regularly, and want heat during the winter - a stock thermostat should work fine.
    Grounds? Just check and repair the stock ones. Just make sure you have a new timing belt and tensioner (probably would be a good idea while the head is off), and check your seals.

    Headwork? Maybe look at some cams, a good set of gears, springs, retainers and guides. The valves themselves should hold.

    Additionally, get a new fuel filter, and check all your vacuum lines.

    Happy boosting!
     
  3. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    Edlebrock Victor-X is the IM of choice for price and flow. but if your LS head is stock, don't bother-- THATS going to be your downfall, not the IM. the ls head flows like crap.

    stock. no need unless you run into problems with breaking up. i hit 300 whp no problem on stock ignition. just get a colder plug.

    yup. gsr pumps fit.
    theres a bunch of great tuners near you. I suggest running Crome.
    contact chris harris. he's from xenoncron, and currently 1 of our sposnsors, and he is in your area.

    dont bother unless you need them, or your mani/turbo don't clear your radiator...

    springs, retainers, and the ls rods aren't too freidnly at 8k..

    if you want to hold it all day,
    inner/outer valve springs, retainers, eagle rods, a nice 9.5:1 forged piston, a head that makes power at 8k (ie, port the ls (there's a nice one for sale in the classfieds right now already done) and a cam taht makes power at 8k like the crower 402t's)
    i did [​IMG]
     
  4. hotrex

    hotrex Senior Member

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    chris harris touched my peepee when we were tuning... watch out for him. his sessions come with a happy ending [​IMG]
     
  5. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    WOAH! :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r: :ph34r:
     
  6. smooth_criminal

    smooth_criminal Senior Member

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    does chris tune on a dyno? or street? Do you guys know if i would need my own wideband? And what are the chances of frying my new engine, The only reason i feel iffy about letting someone tune my ride not in ther own shop is because i just spend 4 grand rebuilding the car and don't want to blow the motor.
     
  7. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    chris knows more about electronics and tuning than probably most of the active posters here. i'd let him tune my car no questions asked. he knows his shit.

    he isn't a shop and doesn't have a dyno, but that doesn't mean you can't GO to a dyno and bring him as a tuner.

    street tuning is great. you can save a lot of time by working out the bugs around town, and then the followign day, take it to the dyno to fine tune and make the most safe power.

    its hard to tune part throttle on the dyno anyway... unless the facility has a load-inducing dyno.
     
  8. smooth_criminal

    smooth_criminal Senior Member

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    Thats what i was saying, You think he would be willing to come to a dyno as my tuner. I guess i'll just get in touch with him and talk about the ish. Anyone know how to get in contact with him?


    Also wheres the cheapest place to order Wiseco pistons from, i found them for 415 at no limit was wondering if anywere else sells them cheaper, Either way they will be ordered today.
     
  9. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    email- chris -AT- xenocron.com
     
  10. smooth_criminal

    smooth_criminal Senior Member

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    OK another thing, I used to run RC 310 injectors, Should i set up to 550's? and should i upgrade my fuel pump, If so what a 255?
     
  11. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    310's are too small... those will only take you to about 230 whp maxed out.

    450's will probably be fine. the Ls doesn't rev that high, so you can get away with a slightly lower duty cycle.

    500's won't hurt though, but 450's are much cheaper, esp. if you go the DSM route.

    pump is a 255lph. walboro makes it. its 90 bucks. buy it.
     
  12. smooth_criminal

    smooth_criminal Senior Member

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    If i go the DSM route what do i need to do, i rememebr somehting about they have to be blue tops and you need resistor packs. some shit like that. Also how can i test to make sure they are working right before i put them in, Don't want to put a bunk injector into a 3000 motor.
     
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