Is my CRX fubar or not?

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utn

Member
Alright, so I own an '89 CRX DX with a B16a in it (and if i wasn't lied to, it has about 60k on the engine) and it isn't quite normal. To start off, the air intake makes a funny noise when I turn off the car, or when i quickly hit the gas or pull the throttle cable under the hood. To put it in text it sort of sounds like a *psswoosh*. The car also smells like something is burning, could be oil or something, im not sure, but what I am almost positive of is the engine is burning oil, sometimes under acceleration white smoke comes out of the tail pipe, the car smells like a go-kart on the outside.

Is my engine in need of a re-build or a drastic tune up?

And is there a way to see if I have the proper ECU in my car for the VTEC engine? The ECU has some japanese charaters written on it (not by machine).



Thanks for any help,
Scott
 
Hmm....The intake sounds like the regular sound when you have a Cold Air intake or a good Ram Air.

But, white smoke is usually not associated with oil burning, or atleast I didn't think it was. I would check your head gasket, oil of course, and do a compression check, and pending that, a leak down test just to see how it is.

To check for the proper ecu on the side of the ecu itself, where the screws mount it in the floor, you look in the #'s directly underneath what looks like a serial bar and it should be middle letter and numbers. The proper ecu should be a PR3 I believe.

Hopefully this helps.
 
If it reads P28 or anything of the sort, you indeed have the wrong ECU.

PR4 etc...
 
To start off, the air intake makes a funny noise when I turn off the car, or when i quickly hit the gas or pull the throttle cable under the hood. To put it in text it sort of sounds like a *psswoosh*.


ahh the lovely sound of twin cam whooshing...
lol

hondas tend to burn some oil, especially when vtec engages...

the smoke may be because its running too rich, what ecu are you running?
did you already do the MPFI swap?
look on the ecu for any white label with lettering...

the buring smell and other things may be because the motor sat for a while?
how long have you had it in?
how long have you been running it?

need some more info to better help you
 
I checked the ECU and its says PR3 (thanks for that info). I have had the car for about 5 weeks (3 weeks in the shop due to broken axle & suspension control arm). Yes the car does have the Multi Port Fuel Injection unit on it. My engine also stops reving at about 7.5-7.7k RPMs I think it could be the fuel cut off line but im not sure, seeing as how I should have the right ECU. For example, I'll be in first gear starting off the line with hard acceleration, runs smoothly all the way through 7k then at about 7.5 it jolts and the engine sounds a little different and wont go higher, as soon as I felt this I took my foot off the throttle, I didnt want to try to push it past this point. Does anyone have an idea of what this could be?

Thanks again,
Scott
 
I have another question about my Rex. My gears sometimes grind :( I dont know if its my infernal clutch or the gears and synchros them selves. At high RPMs the chance of me grinding them is very easy, and then at low RPMs I almost never grind them, (i think ive done it 2 or 3 times at low RPMs). The reason why i think it might be my clutch is, my clutch is VERY VERY touchy, anyone who tries to drive it for the first time stalls it. The clutch grips almost instantly, and if not done absolutely perfectly will jolt the car a little. The person I bought it from said it was a "Racing Clutch" and the people at 76 said its either an extremely tough clutch that wasnt meant for this car, or it could be the clutch cable that makes it so touchy. Any ideas on why my gears grind? Or why my clutch is so intense?

Also, my transmission is leaking oil, its the gasket that connects the transmission to the engine, it leaks very slowly and I just had it topped off yesterday, but I want to get it to stop leaking, because under hard acceleration the leaking oil burns (i think) and smells bad. Am I going to have to take it into a Transmission repair shop or could I possibly stop it my self?

Thanks so much, (yet again)
Scott
 
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