mozzandherb
Senior Member
I know this topic has come up a alot, but would someone be able to give me some websites or other posts about boosting an h22a in a 92 Accord. I've done a little bit of searching, but I know there's more out there. Thanks
Looking for some info
- Thread starter mozzandherb
- Start date
- Replies 15
- Views 791
We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms
mozzandherb
Senior Member
I guess I'm looking for the whole deal. Is it possible (I know it is), is there a lot of modifications I have to do to fit it in? What do I need? Different manifold...intake manifold...exhaust manifold? I already have a complete exhaust new headers ect will they be of use?...As you can see I don't really have any idea where to start? I would like to add a significant amount of hp, but I don't even know what psi I should run for that. If I run say 7 psi, is that alot...not really eh, but would add a significant amount? Change internals? I'm looking to do it next year so I have some time to work on it and get as much information on what would be the best way to approach this project, but if you have some info any will be greatly appreciated. I know I'm all over the place, so maybe give me your opinion on how you would do it. Thanks
well at 7psi youll be okay with stock internals. From my research, the GT30R is a great investment, but its expensive, and at 7psi, your barely in the working range.
If you want to go higher later, i would recommend new sleeves and forged internals. Unfortunately, the FRM sleeves (yeah, i got it right this time) dont like those forged pistons. Its an $800 to sleeve a closed deck(A and A1) H22...$600 for an open deck (A4).
I dont know about the clearance for the exhaust manifold. Maybe hotrex has seen it done. Ive never worked with it or known anyone who has done it on an accord.
If you want to go higher later, i would recommend new sleeves and forged internals. Unfortunately, the FRM sleeves (yeah, i got it right this time) dont like those forged pistons. Its an $800 to sleeve a closed deck(A and A1) H22...$600 for an open deck (A4).
I dont know about the clearance for the exhaust manifold. Maybe hotrex has seen it done. Ive never worked with it or known anyone who has done it on an accord.
whoa, i think you're talking way over his head
lol
go to homemadeturbo.com
this is a basic walk through of a teg install, with all parts labeling, pictured and numbered with a discription
http://www.cse.uconn.edu/~yelevich/turbo/turbo.html
here is another EXCELLENT READ
http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
i suggest you stat by reading the bottom site, then the second to the bottom, then finally move onto the top site and look at some of the setups, the costs and parts involved
i am basing my reply on your questions such as can you use the brand new header you just bought
you have a long way to go my friend.... lots of learning to do
and then after you get the basics then we can focus on going turbo witha swapped car with virtually NO room under the hood
start reading on perhaps slim radiators, slim fans, and battery relocation to get you some more room
psi is a false idea, a common mistake to new comers
psi is a set standard but the amount of air flow from diffrent turbos at the same psi will greatly vary...
a small turbo pushing 7 psi will be a much smaller HP increase as compared ot a larger turbo pushing the same 7 psi...
read and you'll get what i mean
lol
go to homemadeturbo.com
this is a basic walk through of a teg install, with all parts labeling, pictured and numbered with a discription
http://www.cse.uconn.edu/~yelevich/turbo/turbo.html
here is another EXCELLENT READ
http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html
i suggest you stat by reading the bottom site, then the second to the bottom, then finally move onto the top site and look at some of the setups, the costs and parts involved
i am basing my reply on your questions such as can you use the brand new header you just bought
you have a long way to go my friend.... lots of learning to do
and then after you get the basics then we can focus on going turbo witha swapped car with virtually NO room under the hood
start reading on perhaps slim radiators, slim fans, and battery relocation to get you some more room
psi is a false idea, a common mistake to new comers
psi is a set standard but the amount of air flow from diffrent turbos at the same psi will greatly vary...
a small turbo pushing 7 psi will be a much smaller HP increase as compared ot a larger turbo pushing the same 7 psi...
read and you'll get what i mean
mozzandherb
Senior Member
Thanks for the help. I will do my research. If anyone else can add something please do.
mozzandherb
Senior Member
Where do I find slim radiators and fans??
i think to do the H22 turbo you're gonna need to run a race radiator, 92-95 civic style half radiator to give you room for the manifold and turbo
how much room do you have between the head and your radiator?
and you can get slim fans anywhere
ebay to auto zone
your choice
just looked at a pic of my friends h22 accord and you;re good on the radiator...
just get a slim fan and put it on the tranny side and you should have more than enough room
how much room do you have between the head and your radiator?
and you can get slim fans anywhere
ebay to auto zone
your choice
just looked at a pic of my friends h22 accord and you;re good on the radiator...
just get a slim fan and put it on the tranny side and you should have more than enough room
mozzandherb
Senior Member
So put both fans on the tranny side? Or just have 1 fan? I appreciate the help man.
think about what you just said, seriously.
the slim fan would be on the engine side where you need the extra room for the turbo and piping.
i would run one fan on the tranny side, and relocate the battery to the trunk...
best (read: cheapest) way to relocate the battery is wal mart's multi amp wiring kit by scosche
i think its 4 gauge with fuse block and distribution block...
or get your own wiring and do a DIY relocation...
keep in mind your battery vents gases and things, get a dry cell or box it...
and mount it firmly in the trunk....
the slim fan on the tranny side should provide more than sufficient cooling capacity and give you more than enough room...
now look into manifolds...
inter wastegate is cheaper, if you use a junk yard turbo for example, but an external wastegate has shown up to a 40 hp increase right off the bat...
you can run stock internals to an extent..
i would spend your money on things like high flow fuel pump, injectors (you could even go dsm if you are running peak and hold/resistor box) and managment...
look into a P28 ecu, widely used for chipping and tuning, or the GSR ecu if you are using your stock intake manifold with the dual runners and IAB's
I really should think before i type. I was just trying to clear up what he said....THINK NEXT TIME REIKO!
mozzandherb
Senior Member
O.K so let's clear this up...slim fan on tranny side or drivers side? Also why wouldn't I want an external wastegate if it improves hp?
remove both factory fans and install a slim fan on the tranny side fi you need more room...
uh, there really is no reason to not want an external wastegate
external = more expensive...
no stock turbo car ever came with an external wastegate, so junkyard setups have to deal with internal...
external = more expensive manifold, and extra purchase of the wastegate
some other things to consider...
you'll prob want a dump tube that will vent low in the engine bay cause it is after all dumping dirty exhaust gases...
and i hope you don't like in cali
uh, there really is no reason to not want an external wastegate
external = more expensive...
no stock turbo car ever came with an external wastegate, so junkyard setups have to deal with internal...
external = more expensive manifold, and extra purchase of the wastegate
some other things to consider...
you'll prob want a dump tube that will vent low in the engine bay cause it is after all dumping dirty exhaust gases...
and i hope you don't like in cali
