LS/VTEC Help

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HatchSpeeD

HatchSpeeD

...Hi...
Looking to just use LS block & find a vtec head for a LS/Vtec. Been doing some research the past week & have read up on this over the years. Probably gonna go with the GE kit. My question is, ive been searching for gsr/b16 heads & alot are incomplete. Was wondering what sensors/electronics are on the heads that I would need if it was a barehead. I still have my obd-1 LS head & was wondering what I could use from that if anything. Obviously I wouldnt have the vtec solonoid...but just so I have an idea. Could I use the injectors or anything else from my LS head if things were missing? Thx
 
Anyone? Also what would I need to be able to safely rev 8200+ rpms? I know the rod bolts are notoriously weak & was going to use ARP rod/headbolts etc...was hoping to retain the stock bore assuming the walls were ok. Is a block girdle a good idea? If so, could I use a gsr girdle?
 
my ls head has two sensors iat and coolant temp but it is obd0 so I have no clue what a vtec obd1 head has just buy a complete head you'll probably save money than buying a bare head. if you want to rev higher than 8200 get cams that breathe past that upgrade valve springs (don't want to float the valves) block girdle isn't necesary you'll be fine without it and stock sleeves will be fine
 
HatchSpeeD @ Mar 20 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
Looking to just use LS block & find a vtec head for a LS/Vtec. Been doing some research the past week & have read up on this over the years. Probably gonna go with the GE kit. My question is, ive been searching for gsr/b16 heads & alot are incomplete. Was wondering what sensors/electronics are on the heads that I would need if it was a barehead. I still have my obd-1 LS head & was wondering what I could use from that if anything. Obviously I wouldnt have the vtec solonoid...but just so I have an idea. Could I use the injectors or anything else from my LS head if things were missing? Thx
Click to expand...

For the actual head, you'll need ECT, VTEC solenoid, and I believe the rad. fan thermoswitch is on there too.
Intake manifold, you'll need IAT, IACV/EACV, TPS and Injectors. You should be able to switch all of those except the vtec solenoid over from your ls head.


HatchSpeeD @ Mar 20 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
Anyone? Also what would I need to be able to safely rev 8200+ rpms? I know the rod bolts are notoriously weak & was going to use ARP rod/headbolts etc...was hoping to retain the stock bore assuming the walls were ok. Is a block girdle a good idea? If so, could I use a gsr girdle?
Click to expand...

Do the arp bolts if you don't want to buy forged rods.
meh. block girdles are good insurance, but 8200 isn't a big deal. Go with the z10 block girdle if you are going to get one though, as they were designed for the ls main caps. The gsr girdle would require some research which I have come across in the past, but couldn't tell you exactly what you need.
 
I'm finding a lot of obd-0 b16 heads, one guy tells me the only difference between the first gen & second is the distributor...is that true? To run an obd 1 setup would I only have to switch the distributor & maybe the IM?
 
you'll have to get a conversion harness and different injectors and unless you run hondata you have to drill out a spot for a knock sensor save yourself the trouble and get an obd0 head
 
Ok, I'll save myself the trouble & get an obd0 head :thumbsup: :p
I know what u meant...
Anyway assuming I was going to use an obd-1 harness, obd1 dizzy, use the injectors from my obd-1 LS & used a obd-1 IM or aftermarket (skunk 2 or something) would I be good to go on a obd0 b16 head? What are the differences. As far as the knock sensor, thats for the block & besides i'm not worried about that because I am going to use a p28 which won't look for one.
Bippety bumpity boo...
 
Is your car obd-0 or obd-1? if its obd0 get an obd0 head if it is obd1 geat an obd1 head it will save you a head ache when your throwin codes. I said get an obd0 head in my last post because I thought your car was obd0 but I read your first post and you have an obd1 so now I don't know what you have
 
:blink: You confused yourself on that one bud...heh
But yea, just to clear up any confusion the car is a obd-1...i'm aware of what you are saying but my questions are still not being answered...I would like to know just for the sake of knowing & to keep options open..ya know MANG? Ahhhh :deadhorse:
 
okay so let me see if I got this right probably not but here goes. You have an obd1 car and want to do ls/vtec but your having a hard time finding a complete obd1 head so you want to know what needs to be done in order to go from obd1 to obd0 right? or did I completey confuse myself again :confused:
 
Not exactly sure, but everything should be the same between obd0 and obd1 with the exception of the injectors, distributor, IACV, and o2 sensor. The obd0 o2 sensor is a 1-wire, while the obd1 is a 4-wire o2 sensor. You should already have a 4-wire sensor that works if your car is already obd1. I thought you said your LS head was obd1? Why aren't you just using the sensors off of that? If you are going to get an obd0 head, just make sure you get an obd1 intake manifold, and use the obd1 stuff off of your LS head, get and obd1 vtec distributor, and call it good.
 
Thx Mike, that was the idea but I wasn't sure myself thats why I posted. Haven't decided to use an obd0 head but like I said i've seen a lot more 4sale out there & cheap. So, again just wanted to know to keep my options open.
 
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