LS/VTEC or GSR?

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R

Riceras

Senior Member
$2200 - Full Swap Package (axles,mounts, shift linkage)

www.hmotorsonline.com

In order to do LS/VTEC a few things are needed to do it First

$150 P30 Pistons w/rings
$150 B-Series DOHC VTEC Dizzy
$100 ECU that matches my OBD (P72)
$60 GSR Water Pump
$60 GSR Oil Pump
$60 GSR Timing Belt
$150 ARP Head Bolt Set (B18C1)
$200 Golden Eagle MFG VTEC Conversion Kit!!

PLUS THE COST OF THE HEAD!!!! <$500

Equals $1430!!! :( :( :( :(

Why not just pay $1100 More and Get the GSR Full Swap!!!!! What makes LS/VTEC Worth doing I just dont understand it please Explain!
 
its all up to each individual....when i built my lsv; i already had an ls block so it was a no brainer.....in your case....buy an ls change over then later buy the vtec head..and other shit...thats what im doing for my 99 cx lst then lsvt......
 
The Reason It doesnt make much sense in my eyes is the fact that you take a bigger risk when changing all the Internals like pistons, Timing belt, Head, You just have to also calculate in the price of labor for doing the LS swap then doing the VTEC head swap!!@!@!@!

There are just so many ups and downs to both you know what i mean
 
yeah, but youll have a fresh motor usually with all oem parts.......it cost me aprox.....1.2k to do my lsv plus 450 for the 99 si head......its worth it
 
isn't there also a rod bolt issue when reving an LS block to vtec rpms? I thought I read that somewhere and they recomended switching to ARP rod bolts in the LS rods. Some please correct me if I'm wrong
 
yes thats true...its the least i would do to the bottom end.......
 
The issue is that the LS engine wasn't design to the tolerances of the GSR. If you rev your LS/vtec like a GSR you will have issues, unless you build it up. But if you stay within a 6.8K redline then you do not need to rebuild your bottom end.

*Note most stockish engine stop making power before the redline. Each car is going to be different, but lets use my integra LS as an example. The redline starts at 6.8K, but my more stops making power at 6.2K. So there is no point going over 6.2K revs in my car.

PS If you want futher explanion PM and I will share my dino graph and more details
 
i would assume that the ls bottom end has nothing to do with the power curve because the cams in the head is how the motor breaths....meaning use the red line of the head you have....... not from the block....and lets not start this rod/stroke ratio bull shit......i have an lsv and only used arp rod bolts/head studs...i use a pr3 ecu and rev the motor to 8k almost on a daily basis....no problems. its all on how you build the motor.........
 
My .02 an Ls/Vtec is only worth is if you have either the block or the head already, if not just get the gsr.
 
with all that money going into the LSVTEC, you could have a mildly built GSR already. Look around, there are reasonable prices. I bought mine for 1400 longblock+ecu+Axles+mounts. Try to find a JDM as it has a higher compresion of 10.6 compared to the US 10 flat.
 
no way you're wrong.......... an lsv with pr3 pistons and a b16 head...against a mildly built gsr.....the lsv will take it....if in the same car with same clutch same driver and tranny.......thats why people build the lsv....... bottom line
 
i agree... i did a dyno day w/ 3 del sols a few summers ago... the guy with the gsr made like 165/125 to my 184/138.5... his disadvantage was low compression pistons.. as he was mid-turbo build. my web page also has a list of what was modified in the del sol. it was mildly built.. pr3 pistons / CTR cams etc. mainly OEM stuff and hondata

https://hondaswap.com/~pills/lsvtecdyno.html
 
I have drivin a GSR and it does not compare to my LSVTEC setup, if you are gonna crack open the bottom end, i sugest you replace the rods anyways, and if done right, the LSVTEC will rule all
 
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