LSVTEC ARP bolt HELP!??!

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mountaindewguy

Junior Member
ok, for my LSVTEC i was told to go w/ b16a2 pistons as they'd fit in w/out any modification to anything, and decent compression for daily driving and for long trips.. however i was also told to use ARP rod bolts as well.

i was told i need to get the rods resized w/ this. so what i need to know is if someone can take me step by step through the process of working w/ ARP rod bolts... such things as:

what size ARP rod bolts, i was told to go w/ the 8mm, correct?
what exactly is rod resizing, and is it necessary?
what all machining needs to be done?
is there any way i will be just fine w/out getting rods resized or using a different type of bolt?

and any other thing that can help.

im not looking for big HP, just a simple LSVTEC w/ some bolt ons, and not looking to rev too high. but i want it done right. thank you!

p.s., i seached and read some amazing articles on all this but never quite found the answers to these, so all help is more than appreciated
 
mountaindewguy @ Jan 28 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
ok, for my LSVTEC i was told to go w/ b16a2 pistons as they'd fit in w/out any modification to anything, and decent compression for daily driving and for long trips.. however i was also told to use ARP rod bolts as well.

i was told i need to get the rods resized w/ this. so what i need to know is if someone can take me step by step through the process of working w/ ARP rod bolts... such things as:

what size ARP rod bolts, i was told to go w/ the 8mm, correct?
what exactly is rod resizing, and is it necessary?
what all machining needs to be done?
is there any way i will be just fine w/out getting rods resized or using a different type of bolt?

and any other thing that can help.

im not looking for big HP, just a simple LSVTEC w/ some bolt ons, and not looking to rev too high. but i want it done right. thank you!

p.s., i seached and read some amazing articles on all this but never quite found the answers to these, so all help is more than appreciated
Click to expand...
I believe they are talking about the small end of the rod (wrist pin). Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the ls has a smaller wrist pin (part that connects to the piston) so the ls rods need to be machined to accept the larger wrist pin from the b16 pistons.....I'm not 100% sure on this, as I've never had to do this, I recall reading about it though. Hope this helps...
The big end will fit the crank just fine, they all (b-sereis) run the same size....
 
thats just the problem... i thought so too (about the big end of the rod) but everyone tells me i need all this work done.. thats why my questions above need answered :cry:
 
you have to resize the rods. rod bolts have to be pressed in and doing that distorts the bore. its not that big of a deal, they will charge like 10 bucks/rod to do it.

and the LS doesnt have a smaller wrist pin. you shouldnt have to modify anything to fit the b16 pistons on the LS rods
 
you resize the rods to the original size. the big end bore gets distorted and not round anymore. so the machine shop will take off some material from he end cap, then rebores it back to the right size and makes it round again.
 
GSRCRXsi @ Jan 29 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
you resize the rods to the original size. the big end bore gets distorted and not round anymore. so the machine shop will take off some material from he end cap, then rebores it back to the right size and makes it round again.
Click to expand...


awesome, thats what i needed lol. so do they actually put it together with the ARP bolts, torque down, measure and cut/ repeat till round, or how do they know when its round again before putting it back on the crank?
 
they will press out the old bolts, press in the new arp bolts, torque them down (stretching is better) and be sure to give them the stretch/torque specs provided by ARP, they should have come with the bolts. then they will torque/stetch the rod bolts to spec and measure how much it is ou of round. then they take the appropriate material from the end cap and rebore to the right size. (do your research and find the correct size of the big end bore so you can tell the machine shop what size they have to rebore to). then they will put the end cap back on, torque/stretch to spec and rebore it, then double check the roundness to make sure its round again.
 
awesome sounds great. i got a guy on another site that told me if i send him a certain dollar amount and the rods and bolts, he'll send them back to me all done, and all i'll need to do is re-assemble everything and torque everything down.

only question is about the stretch thing.. whats up with that?
 
The new ARP rod bolts will stretch as you torque them down. Some people measure how tight the rod bolt is on by measuring the original length of the bolt, and then measuring the stretched length, rather than just torquing it down to a certain number of ft-lb. This will make sure the torque on the bolt is not just from surface friction between the nut and the rod surface.

For me, I just torqued/loosened/torqued several times on each bolt ensuring enough moly lube had worked its way into the surface to keep the friction minimal when I torqued down a final time.
 
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