LSVTEC clearance w/ adjustable cam gears

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

M

Mike_995

New Member
Ok I am basically wondering if the clearance of my engine would support adjustable cam gears, AND be able to give me decent gains with a good tuner. Is it even worth the risk of advancing the cams ? Also another question I have, my car is a del sol S it weighs around 2150 pounds, and with my current setup WITHOUT vtec popping(ecu problem), I can barely just barely sneak by my buddies bone stock LS integra that is loaded. Why is that happening ?, the car is gutless for the setup I am running. The afr's were street tuned to 13.0:1-14.7:1, but we never got to touch the ignition timing side yet, could timing be causing that much of a deficit ? I checked the compression is spot on 250 psi across the board, oil pressure is good... no vaccum leaks, basically what I am saying is there is absoluetly nothing wrong (mechanically) with the motor.

My engines specs
LSVtec
B16 Head (port polished, planned 10 thou)
B18b1 block (81.5mm bore)
ITR pistons (12:1 compression because of head plane)
Blueprint STG2 Cams (IN 12.6 mm lift EX 11.9)
Shotpeened ls rods (buttoned up with arps)
B16 oil pump-GSR waterpump and timing belt.
360 cc densos
Supertech valvetrain
ITR header, 2.5" exhaust from header back with a high flow cat, and straight through muffler.\
3" short ram intake
GSR tranny.

Thanks alot
Mike
 
Last edited:
Yea but the only thing is... my car is maybe making 120 to the crank, there isnt a single reason for that. Vtec isnt going to add another 90 hp, because my build is capable of 195 to the wheels. I just dont understand why the hell, its not working right. My tuner is pretty good, and is reputable, Ill have to get it on the dyno to figure out how much its actually making but, with my d15b7 I could keep up with my buddies integ, and that 1.5 had 340 000 km's on it. My tranny alone would let me sneak by him, so thats why I think my hp #'s are really low. 120 hp motor isnt worth the 5 grand I put into the damn car. All i know is Im really fucking close to taking that WHOLE motor out selling it and swapping in an h22, because this is just ridiculous.
 
Last edited:
i would say there is probably something going wrong in the tune if there is nothing wrong mechanically.. and once your ecu is fixed to let vtec work it should reveal some nice gains on you.. also try maybe a little richer afr at wot rather than 13 to one. maybe like 12.5 or so.. some motor like it richer than others. just really need to fix vtec and get it on a dyno for tuning.. and cam gears are only going to change where you motor breaths good to dictate where the power is made... and i would be carefull with a high comp motor like that adjusting timing too much in the cams. good luck. hope i could help in the slightest way...
 
why do you say you doubt its your Vtec? a stock ls should be 140 to the crank , why would you assume an lsvtec wouldn't be close to the same and have a huge jump at engagement
have you ever looked a dyno sheet for a v tec powered car .your problem is most likely the bad ecu .
basic factory rattings
b18b 140
b18c1 170
b18c5 190
fix the ecu and tune and you should hit close to your expected numbers
 
mike , a pile of parts doesn't make power , like my last post said its probably just and ecu ,and tuning issue .your motor looks to be set up for large airflow numbers , your not getting a large airflow in it so yes a low 120 # is very likely , high compression, port and polish , cammed all move the power up the band your not hitting the band , fix the vtec and you will likely love you car again
 
Yea, I did until it blew up, the clearances were so tight that when the motor heated up to optimum temp the pistons swelled a little bit, just enough so that the valves touched them under vtec, motor is toast, all 4 forged pistons have holes in them, combustion chambers on the head are all chewed apart, 4 valves were snapped right off of their stems, and the best of all a cylinder wall is cracked in half, no bent rods, no crank damage..... The worst thing is, when the motor was put together I swapped the vtec pisons so that it was engaged all of the time, turned the motor over by hand and there was no valve to piston contact.....the vtec issue was the solenoid had a dirty filter so there was no oil pressure going through the vtec hardware, after that the car went into vtec about 3 times and blew up, they werent even crazy bursts into vtec, short and sweet, went down the road about 15 km's got on the local highway puched it in 3rd and got to about 6 grand and all I hurd was the horrific sound of valves smashing into pistons, white smoke pouring out of my intake.... I just swapped in a b16 it works pretty damn good.... im mostlikely going to go stock internal turbo on the b16, just with low low boost around 5-7 psi for now, just enough to get me into the low 200 whp range, with a good tune I consider that to be pretty conservative on a b16, they seem to be pretty tough....
 
Last edited:
My project for the winter when my car is layed up is a b16 turbo
This is my parts list so far
AEBS IM
JGE sleaves (84.5mm bore)
Tuner Toys rods
Wiseco pistons (9.5:1 compression)
ACL bearings
In cabin boost controller (greddy profec b perhaps)
550 cc injectors
Mishimoto/fludyne rad
Cheap ebay turbo kit ( replace wg with a tial wg)
Acura Integra Honda Civic B-Series Bolt On Turbo Kit - (eBay.ca item 140248014076 end time 15-Jul-08 20:31:19 EDT)

I plan on running that cheap kit until the turbo goes, then I will replace it with a good turbonetics or garret turbo. I know everyone is shaking their heads about the b16 turbo idea, and the ebay turbo kit. But my car is not going to hook up good with a b16 turbo let alone something with ALOT more tq, such as an lsv turbo. That tq is just going to be waisted in tire smoke, besides the b16 has a nice short stroke which is easy on the whole rotating assembly, including all of the bearings that go along with it.

From what i have been reading about most of the ebay kits, is that the turbos are weak, and the wastegates arent worth relying on. Most of the other stuff is actually fairly competent. Thats why im going to replace the wg with a competent tial wg, so that I know im not going to suffer a blowup due to overboost. My main goal for this setup is to hit 300 whp, im not looking for net fame, or anything like that I want something that I can rely on, and its going to be tuned accordingly.
 
Last edited:
btw, when a turbo "goes" it isn't uncommon to take the engine with it. have you seen how the bearings in the turbo break down into the oil that your engine runs on?
 
??? acl's arent good ? I thought they were the best..... im gonna keep an eye on how much oil is in the downpipe, and keep a close eye on the turbo. Most of you have probably saw that ebay kit go 17 000 miles, before it was toast. If I have the extra $ ill spring the extra grand and get a better kit/ turbo.
 
Do it right the first time.... well second for you.
Your going to end up with another motor taking a shit.
Good luck with the ebay turbo
 
Either one of those kits will work well for you. Dont waste your money on one of those ebay turbo kits. Nothing in the ebay kit is worth its weight in shit. Do it right the first time or dont do it at all.
 
Yea I think im gonna go with the treadstone kit, you can upgrade the turbo to ball bearing, and the down pipe to 2.5 " for pretty cheap. And the specs seem quite good, well constructed and not cheap.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top