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LSVTEC-T Issues.

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by Matts96HB, Jul 17, 2008.

  1. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    So, a buddy of mine bought an EG hatch with an LSVTEC-T in it, long story short, he got shafted. We ended up having to get another block and rebuild from scratch. He bored it 20 over and we are using an obd1 b16 head w/stock cams. Cometic head gasket, JE pistons, eagle rods, and a tiny garret turbo (looks to be no bigger than the 12b off my volvo, 10 psi. its got a shitty tune on it.. because the build was shitty before (had different head studs, some arp, some stock, not even torqued to spec).

    Here's the problem. It idles great, starts, runs and drives. The big issue is at idle, if you give it some gas and hold at 1,500-2,000 rpms the idle bounces. It does this when you're taking off as well. Its not the IACV, we have changed that and checked the wiring. The air/fuel gauge is pegged at rich on idle. Think its too much fuel cuz of the shitty tune? Or something else?
     
  2. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Oh, and above 4k RPMS it hesitates. It sounds like it wants to go but it doesnt. The air/fuel ratio is still pegged above 4k. We know it works, cuz it drops to ideal in the middle of the RPM range.
     
  3. t3t4delsol

    t3t4delsol New Member

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    sounds like a vacuum issue, make sure to check the charge pipes too, you sucking in air somewhere, possible even the intake manifold gasket
     
  4. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    I've checked the charge pipes for leaks. I'm positive there is none in the charge pipes. Not sure about the vacuum, we will check those tonight.

    As for the intake manifold.. during the install, it somehow got saturated with coolant on one side, but its a brand new gasket. Could the coolant cause it to warp or something?
     
  5. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    The bouncing idle thing sounds just like a TPS problem I had with my car. Make sure that its calibrated to .49 volts at idle.

    My sensor ended up being faulty, where it would send out intermittent signals at a constant throttle angle; hence fucking shit up. To test the voltage, tap into the middle wire going into the plug.
     
  6. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Alright we will try that too. Another way to check that is to just unplug it when the car is running right?
     
  7. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    You could try that.... Just find a multimeter and tap into that wire. It's easy and will give you a definate answer
     
  8. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    We are going to change the tune today with a basemap from phearable.net..
    If that doesn't work checking the voltage to the TPS, then changing IM gasket
     
  9. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Ok so the Basemap is in. It does run better, but we still have a few issues.

    The IACV is throwing a code. We are unsure of the problem with that. We replaced the actual sensor with mine from my Civic and still nothing. Then we checked the wiring at the ECU and all is normal. Wiring for the plug is a two-wire plug. Not sure what it should be?

    Also, everything seems to be working ok, doesnt overheat. Idles great, takes off just fine. It just feels like it doesn't want to move in the top end. Could this be a slipping clutch? (his is stock from a b16 tranny.. used..)
     
  10. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Another question.. regarding the timing. Should it be set stock? or advanced a bit? Its set at stock right now, we aren't sure if it should have been advanced. Any ideas on this?
     
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