lsvtec w/ 130,000 miles

[Speed Racer]

As the title says I was wondering if it would be wise to attempt a lsvtec head swap on a motor with 130,000 miles. The motor is a B18B1 from a 98 Integra LS. Will there be major fail problems if I don't completely rework and rebuild the motor? Also, how hard is the install? I haven't ever opened up a motor or pulled one out of a car (such a noob).

Thanks for the input!

 

[GSRCIVICTN]

I highly suggest a rebuild if you are already going to have the head off. I don't know what kind of condition your motor is in, but I wouldn't want to swap the head and then have to pull it back off when other stuff needs replacing. Get yourself a manual and read through it and get familiar with the inner workings and what tools are necessary and then decide if you feel comfortable doing this work.
To answer your questions:1)There could be a major failure. I can't say w/o knowing the condition of the engine. 2)It's not real hard to take it apart and put it back together, but it takes more time, know-how, and patience to do it right.
Do some research, read manuals, & look at the pictures to familiarize yourself. Most people are capable of this level of difficulty.

 

[formby]

the good thing about our engines, is the fact that they are easy to work on or labor $$ wont cost you alot.
#1 do a leak down/compresion tests then if it gets good numbers get:
new
W/O pump (gsr)
timing belt (gsr)
arp rod bolts/headstuds
eagle lsv kit

when head is off check the cyl walls for scaring. if you ever upgrade cams you should change the pistons. because the valve reliefs on the pr4s are not deep and you will have carbon build up from the 130k...

 

[Speed Racer]

Thanks guys. I just talked to a guy I know today about how much it would cost to entirely rebuild an engine yourself and the tools alone to pull the motor out of the car would be $$$. Any ideas on what to do?

 

[GSRCIVICTN]

Depending on what you decide to do, it may not be necessary to pull the engine. I've rebuilt two engines in the car. Only reason you really need the block out of the car is if machining is necessary. If your cylinder walls are within specifications then a quick hone with a drill and honing attachment will work. Pretty much everything can be done in the car. That would save you money on a hoist and engine stand.

 

[Speed Racer]

Quoted post[/post]]
If your cylinder walls are within specifications then a quick hone with a drill and honing attachment will work. Pretty much everything can be done in the car.

By "within specs" do you mean no scarring or major damage? Where can I get a honing attachment?
Sorry for the noobness of my posts. Its just that I've never opened up an engine before.