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motor swap

Discussion in 'Accord' started by molly, Sep 16, 2007.

  1. molly

    molly New Member

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    High i am new to this site and i am in a jam, i just swapped over an engine in my 98 accord 2.3 everything seems okay BUT i can ont get passed 4000 rpm whether in idle or on the road, everytime i try the engine tries to shut down on power like a governer kicking in , i have must of the original sensor put back on the new motor except for a couple of , looks like oil switches. I even tried unhooking the v-tec thinking this was the problem, no luck. I did notice that on the motor i put in it had in bold letters stmped on it saying ULUV written on it , does this make a diff? I am at my wits end ,i even had an injecter test light hooked up to it and you can watch it blink steadily until you hit 4000 rpm than it blinks than stops , tan blinks than stopd , etc.Some thing is making it stop the fuel flow. You can drive it on the highway no problem just dont hit 4000 rpm. I even switched the v-tec solenoid no diff, and the only code is in it is air fuel metering code that has been in it forever. HELP HELP HELP:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
     
  2. get_nick

    get_nick These snozzberries taste like snozzberries... VIP

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    what ecu are you using?
     
  3. molly

    molly New Member

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    Engine Swap

    i AM USING THE ORIGINAL COMPUTER IN THE CAR AND THERE WAS NO TROUBLE WITH THE CAR UNTIL THE ENGINGE SWAP.:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
     
  4. molly

    molly New Member

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    jUST A LITTLE note the computer for this car is not here i had to order this motor from the mainland in order to find one none here at the time on thr rock.:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
     
  5. get_nick

    get_nick These snozzberries taste like snozzberries... VIP

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    what engine did you take out and what did you put in it?
     
  6. molly

    molly New Member

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    I took out a 2.3 motor and put back in the same motor but for some reason it had u-luv stamped on the top pan , maybe diff>:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
     
  7. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    your car is in limp mode.

    youre gonna need to use the right ECU before the problem fixes itself.

    and if it says ulEv....that means ultra low emissions vehicle.

    if it says ulev, its probably not from a 98...its more than likely from a newer car.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2007
  8. get_nick

    get_nick These snozzberries taste like snozzberries... VIP

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    yep, you need a new ecu. it's going to be a problem if you don't have the ecu that matches the engine.
     
  9. molly

    molly New Member

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    i am new to this site and not sure about responding properly if i offend any one so bear with me, and is thie the only way out of this situtation
     
  10. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    yeah, pretty much. you dont have a lot of options.

    Your doing pretty well....i assume dutch is your native language.
     
  11. molly

    molly New Member

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    motot swap

    I don,t understand what you mean when you say that IF YOU PM ME WITH A TECH QUESTION YOU BETTER HAVE A LINK TO THE THREAD IN YOUR PM.
     
  12. molly

    molly New Member

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    why is it necessary to change computers when i changd motors over befor e with out any problems.
     
  13. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    1) It means that if you send me a private message about a car problem, I will not respond to you unless youve already started a message about it on our board.

    2) You more than likely got a newer motor this time, so it requires changing computers.
     
  14. molly

    molly New Member

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    THANK YOU for explaing that to me
     
  15. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    He means that if you send him a private message about a car-related issue, he wants you to put a link back to the thread you started about the problem.

    In other words, he's saying don't send him a private message without first asking for help on the forums.

    ULEV stands for "ultra low emissions vehicle." ULEV emissions are about 50% cleaner than an average car's. To properly run a ULEV motor than you need the appropriate ECU.
     
  16. molly

    molly New Member

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    Thanks for that insight it makes sense but what if i cannot find the original computer for that car if it isn,t already sold in the scrap yard. can an alternate one work.
     
  17. get_nick

    get_nick These snozzberries taste like snozzberries... VIP

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    you need the exact ecu. there are a few numbers on the front of the engine.

    look at this picture.
    [​IMG]


    It will look something like this.
    [​IMG]

    find these numbers, we will tell you what ecu you need. and then you can buy one online or from ebay or something.
     
  18. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    As a tip, there are a few different F22s and F20s. You might want to check the date stamp as well....and thats behind the exhaust manifold, engraved on the head.
     
  19. FObangah

    FObangah New Member

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    Heres a question........why did you replace the motor? What was wrong with the other that made you swap?
    Aside from that... You said "......some of the sensors aren't plugged in.... looks like oil sensors or something..." If this is the case, it could be a temp sensor of some kind ( Im not to familiar with accords ) A bad temp signal to the air metering device can keep the car form hiting vTEC....If so,un-hook your battery ( make sure you have a security code if you still have your stock deck ) and plug those sensors in where they are supposed to go. BEFORE re-connecting the battery, turn your ignition to the ON posistion. Your gonna have a few minutes to wait so go make a sandwich and tell your girl to call me!!! j/k........come back about 15-20 minutes later. This should discharg the ECU's memory of that metering code and return it to it's " DEFAULT" mapps. Make sure everything is hooked up and installed EXCEPT THE BATTERY. TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION BEFORE YOU HOOK THE BATTERY BACK UP or you won't have a computer anymore...it will be a grilled cheese sandwich. You don't want this because you just ate a sandwich earlier. Re- connect the battery and start the car... don't touch anything in/on the car until it idles to normall temp. drive it for a little while then see if it will go into vTEC. This could fix it. If it still isn't driving passed 4,000, there should be 2 connections on your vTEC solenoid, one has one wire ( probally green, and in the top of the solenoid ), and another that has 2-3 wires in it. Check this one FIRST. Hopefully you have a volt meter, if not get one. Get a friend to help also. turn the car on and see if there is voltage between this connector ( if the car will run without it hooked up) ... if there is no voltage, listen to these guys becuase its probally a newer engine and needs a different ECU. If it does have voltage.... cut the car off and plug it back in and try the other one ( the ONE wire connector). Same test...except that friend has to rev the engine up to vTEC to send a signal through that wire. If there is no signal guess what.......no signal for vTEC. Check the wiring.......If the wires are good its an ECU problem ( either wrong ECU for that motor or it got fried during the swap )
     
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2007
  20. FObangah

    FObangah New Member

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    Reikoshea; He said 2.3 liter...I guess that means he had an F23 and replaced it with an F23????? Your the 'lude guy.... I think there was only one version of the 2.3 and it was OBD2 right???? He should be good with the ECU he has correct????( unless its jacked up )
     
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