my h22a swap head build up... hp kinda low

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kingmarc01

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my h22a w/ i/e/stock header made 165hp in my accord
w/ skunk 2 stage 2 cams, crower springs and retainers, mugen chipped ecu and vafc tuned i only picked up 9-10 hp.
Where is the problem. does it lie with the header?
Will i need port and polish for the cams to come alive.
ps. my but dyno felt a diffrence but obviously not the dyno
any advise is appreciated..
 
I don't know what you use, but my butt dyno felt a huge difference when I bought a good catback system.

Cheap Ebay catback, 2.5" stainless, mandrel bent. All made to flow well, but the muffler had that double back style tip. I sold it to a buddy that wanted backpressure for some reason. I bought a better flowing, 2.5" intake, 2.5" outlet muffler for $60 on Ebay, and welded it on. It made a huge difference in the top end, and a noticeable difference in the 3k+ range.

P+P would be nice too, but the exhaust wasn't more than $400 total for me, and well worth it.
 
that sounds very low to me for the mods you have....what octane gas are you running and who is doing the tuning? also what did you make for wheel torque? get a header and good exhaust and then see where your at but that still seems to low to me for what you have for mods
 
just a little armchair engineering so help me if i'm wrong.
The car does need some breathing help. Because now all you've done is add more HP lose with the up springs and no air flow. So either in or out, but exhaust seems to be more efficient(power for the money) , Let your motor breath and get into the air flow range of the cams.
 
Uhh, lol, yeah use 91+ octane gas. I'll be willing to bet that your "Mugen" chipped ECU has something to do with not realizing full power potential. You should invest at the very least, a VAFC and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and sit down for some dyno tuning along with an air/fuel gauge or ideally, a wideband o2 sensor. Hondata would be super helpful, but it is expensive and you have to find a tuner. Also, if you havent already, a free flowing intake and exhaust would be nice as well. A good header can open up some power for you.
 
forgot to mention.
i already have a free flowing air intake and greddy+straight pipe cat back system. I also had it tuned with a vafc by some one i think is reputable. The car has a very smooth power curve and makes max power up to 7600 rpm. The af ratio is now perfect, before the mugen use to dump all finds of fuel and i got bad :blink: gas mileage. Right now i have a combination of 3 choices
1. go to 91+ octane
2. go to back to stock p13 ecu
3. get a good performance header . ps. could i get a average dollar one (nuespeed, dc,greddy)and change the collector to 2.5 diameter for better flow? or should i just save for the high dollar one like smsp, prospeed, an-r.
thanks for all the input
 
first off you have one choice you have to make whether youd like to or not, you must run 93 octane gas init. I assume your motor is jdm? and if not its still roughly the same but tthe jdm h22a is 10.6:1 compression.....which is quite high and thus will need high octane gas to run well. I have never put anythign other than 93 octane gas(with the exception of some aviation fuel 100 octane) in my car. then if you dont have a ton of money then just get something decent for a header, like you suggested.Did the guy that tuned it hook it up to a wideband o2 for the tuning portion of things? i owuld try those things then go from there
 
92 In Washington. Anything less, and the engine will ping. The pinging is read by the knock sensor. The knock sensor retards your timing to stop the pinging. Retarded timing is a big loss in power.

If you bump up to a 2.5" collector, make sure you use a 2.5" cat. The stock cat would be smaller, so you would not gain much without changing it. I kept my stocker, but I inspected, ported and polished it. There was not enough material to make the openings super large, but I did my best.
 
just put 93 octane in today
do you think a good header will make those cams come alive?
 
there will be little increase with an aftermarket header
the stock 4-2-1 h22 header flows very well
most aftermarket headers are just a duplication of the stock header...

def use higher octane gas... this is a MUST...
"mugen" chip = you get what you pay for
sounds like its a piece of shit and is just dumping ass loads of fuel, and running rich will hurt your HP numbers...
you can try to manually advance your timing by turning the distributor, i would say this will give you instant results...

and you should have STARTED with a port and polish... and def should have got it done while you had it apart...
the point of cams is to get better flow... but you need to think of the whole flow system... changing one aspect will not help if you have a bottle neck in another area...


and why are you running a diffrent chip if you have a VAFC?
i would think a properly tuned vafc would blow an egay mugen chip away performance wise...
 
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