need help converting ecu

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nightrider45

Junior Member
I have a auto p30 ecu and i'm throwing the code 19 which is Automatic transmission lockup control valve. My car is an automatic as well. But when i'm driving it doest let me go past 7k rpms in 1st and 2nd gear but when it hits 3 gear it revs up to 8k rpms.

My question is, if i convert my auto ECU to a manual would the code go away?
And is there going to be issues if i do this converstion?
 
Sorry but you cant use a manual ecu for an auto the control pins dont work for certain parts. But give me a little more info and ill try to help you. What year and model vehicle is this in? What motor do you have in it? What modifacations if any have you made to the harness? Good Luck
 
I have a 97 civic dx with the JDM b16 engine (auto) with a p30 ecu. I have i/h/e. The wiring harness is fine. The only code i'm throwing is code 19. I dont know why it's throwing that code.

When i'm at WOT, 1st gear goes to 7k, 2nd gear goes to 7200, 3rd gear goes up to 7800 and 4th gear goes up to 8k. I know if i had a manual i can get all the gears to redline at 8200 but since its an auomatic it controls it for me. Why does my car do this? Does code 19 have anything to do this whats going on with the redline in my gears?
 
Sorry but im not sure what a code 19 is. Could you tell me what circuit that code pertains to? Did you check your trans fluid level? Did you check the trans fluid condition for contamination? Has the trans filter ever been changed. There are lots of things that can make the trans shift like this. The thing I have seen the MOST is actually improper fluid level.
 
The car has been acting like this for about a year, It's been happening since the fisrt day i did the swap. And i changed all of the fluids and filters the same day i swapped the engine to my car.
 
your ecu is probably looking for a check from something that isn't there. much like the code 20 i was getting for ELD (my car didn't have one, but the car that the motor/ecu came from did). It was looking for it, not finding it, and throwing the code for it saying there was a problem with it. Make sense?

Let me talk to my resident ECU guru and explain the situation, there may be a way around the code... but it might take a while to find. I will get back to ya!
 
Ok, thanks i've been wanting to know the answer on how to fix it. And by the way i had to do the self diagnoise because if i plug in a scanner it doesnt read anything.
 
hey I currently doiing a odb2 to odb1 jdm h22a swap. I done the whole swap completly now. I swaped out a h23 4 the h22. I used the h23 engine harness. I gotten the odb2 to obd1 conversion harness. everything is hooked up. I ran the vtec wires and also put in a vtec controller. the engine had a internal coil. the car had a external coil. i used the h23 dizzy with a new ignitor . every thing turns over fuel pumps work everything is ready but I have no spark and I cant figure out y. I also sasddly do not know how to check 4 codes on a obd1 car. does anyone have any idea what I could be doing wrong.
 
mrdathion said:
I also sasddly do not know how to check 4 codes on a obd1 car. does anyone have any idea what I could be doing wrong.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the thread jack but i'll help you out.

I dont know if it's the same for you but for my civic, to do the self diagnostic yourself without an obd scanner, theres a blue plug with 2 wires connected to it on the other end. It's located where the passengers feet would be. It's like on the right side of the kick panel. When you find the plug, get like a paper clip and put them in each hole. When you do that put the Key in the ON position and the engine light will blink.
To read what codes there are. Long blinks is counted as 10 and short blinks are 1. For example, L,L,s,s,s, that equals to code 23. If you have more then 1 code ther will be a pause in between codes. If you dont know what i'm talking about then Let me know and i will get a picture for you.
 
well, one is becoming a tuning ecu so it needs modification, the others are mostly p06s that need converting and socketing. The others are collected from others who have either toasted them somehow so it gets fixed and either re-used in a customer car or sold... basically they all need some kind of work on them. :) Except the 4 I have... the CTR ecu I used in my car and kept in case I need a backup, p30 in the car, pr3 that came with the motor and pr4 that was originally in the car.
 
Ohhh ok. well the only think i could of thought of is tightning the Transmission cable and the accelerator cable. But no change there, only faster response, redline is the same even if i loosen the cables or tighten them
 
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