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[reikoshea]

So yeah im looking for bolt on upgrades (for now...might have someone port polish and bore the cylinders blah blah later)

So im probably just gonna be trying to mess with people from stop light to stop light, nothing REALLY competative, but im still willing to invest money. Which parts are the best for such activities

Cold Air Intake
-Iceman (what id choose if no one gave feedback)
-Injen
-AEM

Headers (All are 4-2-1 so i make sure i can pass emissions)
-Matrix
-DC Sports

i already have a Skunk2 Cat-back exhaust system
and i might change the cam gears and pullies later on, but it wont be on the next upgrade

Im also gonna get some new spark plug wires and spark plugs, but i dont know what is the best price/performance ratio and what the heat range thing means on the iridium spark plugs.

 

[dohcvtec_accord]

The intake won't matter. If I were you, I'd get a good filter and a cheap tube. It's just an intake. Spend the money elsewhere.

Unless you're in California, I don't think the headers are going to make a difference in helping you pass emissions. If you're going to get a header, why not spend a little extra cash and get something good, instead of a Matrix or DC unit?

Instead of the pulleys, you might be better off just removing your P/S. You won't see a huge gain from a set of pulleys, and I've heard of them doing more harm than good.

Don't spend a buttload on wires. Just get some Honda/NGK wires and call it good. If you're going to get some Iridium plugs, stay with the stock heat range, or go one step hotter. Don't let someone talk you into getting colder plugs. You won't need them.

 

[reikoshea]

well some of the stuff is also for show later (pullies, powder coated intake tube, headers). I am also going to be replacing the vacuum tubes and radiator hoses with the cool powder coated flex pipes too. Thats another side of it.

Im also going to buy, a black window (aka spider) front bumper, a kombat rear bumper, vader side skirts, Z3 fenders, and a carbon fiber hood. Also planning on getting a paint job, a T25 turbo kit, and im gonna have my buddy's engine overhaul guy bore out my cylinders and change all the pistons and crap. By the time im done with this car i will probably have dropped about 15 (including the price of the car) into it.

 

[reckedracing]

black WIDOW, not window...


lose the z-3's at the very least,they have horrible fitment and you'll want to go back to stock...

don't you think a t25 is a little small for the 2.2?

you cannot run forged internals on stock sleeves...
why are you having it bored out?

 

[dohcvtec_accord]

Goddamit recked, that was gonna be my new avatar.

 

[tab]

Originally posted by reckedracing@May 6 2005, 09:49 AM
black WIDOW, not window...


lose the z-3's at the very least,they have horrible fitment and you'll want to go back to stock...

don't you think a t25 is a little small for the 2.2?

you cannot run forged internals on stock sleeves...
why are you having it bored out?

[post=495907]Quoted post[/post]​

 

[reikoshea]

first, sorry for the misspell on widow, i guess i was still thinking that i had to replace the front windshield. The guy that owned the car before me decieded to be a fucktard and turn the windshield whipers on while he was missing a blade.

Thanks for the advice on the Z3 fenders, i might just take that money and put it into those carbon fiber style euro tail lights.

Now for the wierd one.
When i said T25 it was because i didnt wanna run a T3/T4 turbo on stock sleeves, but that thought was when i was going to be running the engine stock. Then my buddy at the machine shop said he would rebuild my engine with new heads and cylinders, and a whole buncha stuff (i really didnt understand half of what he was talking about) and up my displacement to something like 2.6L. Since my engine is going to be put in next week, ive decided not to do that, and to stay with the low end turbo so i dont go overboard on boost. I drive my cars hard enough that the 5PSI might still hurt the engine.

I need to take pics of my Protege and show you what im talking about. Every seal is leaking, and ive got the worlds biggest oil stain on my drive way....somehow the car runs, and itll still do about 120MPH before you smell something burning (any ideas what that is). Im really gonna miss that car when my 'lude is done, but im really gonna enjoy the 'lude.

 

[reikoshea]

I was going through some dynos on the north texas prelude owners group site (ntpog.org) and i saw some dynos that made my smile...uhh not so happy. The engine that i bought from Hmotors said it had a peak hp of 200...the dynos im seeing of H22As...are not 200HP

The highest HP is from a Type SH and that is still only 175...do you really lose 25HP from flywheel to wheels?

 

[dave_255]

yes you do lose that much

 

[reikoshea]

DOHC, you said that i should get some good headers for a little bit more...what were you refering to...Im not FULLY into cars yet, but from what i read DC Sports was the best...Should i go with GReddy?

Also, this car will be a daily driver, so i wanna make sure that the engine swap, exhaust, headers and intake will still keep this car street legal. If its not its gonna be useless.

 

[dohcvtec_accord]

If you're not in California, you should be fine as far as street legality goes. Some cities/counties can be harsh on exhaust modifications though (decibel levels, etc), but that should be your only potential problem.

And yes, you lose a certain amount of power through the drivetrain, but I forget the usual percentages. It's more of a loss for auto trannies, and more of a loss for 4WD/AWD vehicles. You can minimize that loss by using lighter drivetrain components and lighter wheels.

EDIT: DC Sports is far from the best. They're not crappy like some of the Ebay brands (Matrix? Megan?), but you can do ALOT better. GReddy is decent, Mugen is better.

 

[reikoshea]

LOL, i dont think that the sound level should be a problem...I live in Dallas County and i hear some of the 1000cc bikes come by and shake the windows of my office...Texas is getting a lil more strick on emissions, thats the only reason i was worried.

 

[driver1]

Originally posted by reckedracing@May 6 2005, 09:49 AM
black WIDOW, not window...


lose the z-3's at the very least,they have horrible fitment and you'll want to go back to stock...

don't you think a t25 is a little small for the 2.2?

you cannot run forged internals on stock sleeves...
why are you having it bored out?

[post=495907]Quoted post[/post]​

yes you can....Mahle pistons makes a piston with a coating on the skirts specialy for the h22 so you can run a frged piston in the h22 cylinders. they come in standard, high, and low compression configurations.

 

[tab]

hmmmmm, interesting.

Learn something new everyday!

 

[reikoshea]

yes you can....Mahle pistons makes a piston with a coating on the skirts specialy for the h22 so you can run a frged piston in the h22 cylinders. they come in standard, high, and low compression configurations.

I had seen that, but that is way beyond my level of experience...but i am still looking at a new exhaust manifold.

OBX Racing ($190), GReddy(close to $500) and DC Sports ($120) are my options

 

[1994HondaAccordEX]

ahhh let see. Here is my personal experience for my Daily driving H22 Accord:

Intake: ebay's 3" pipe + K&N Filter

Header: Real Header with 2.5" collector such as SMSP, AN-R/kteller, etc. Those are expensive, or you can get a cheaper version 4-1 at kamikaze. Make sure you note them that you'd get the 2.5" outlet. I bought an ebay one couple weeks ago, arrived in 2" so I bitched the seller to take it back and return the full amount because it wasn't like the item's description.

Exhaust: 2.5" stainless mandrel bent piping + a good muffler such as Magnaflow, etc. I chose the OBX twin loop (mugen knock-off) because I was cheap and the quietest of them all. It's 2.5" inlet, ~2.3"-2.4" Loop, and 3" tip, Look nice, and quiet.

That and call it a day. I may get the Zex 4-cyl direct port kit later for fun, but don't know yet.

If you're into more, it's going to be very expensive. I have my other H22 motor out to rebuild for FI. I'm bulletproofing it + cryogen coated it, and a full headwork. My turbo setup will be very much like a Full-Race GT35R setup. I've put about 10K into the engine work alone and it's nowhere near done as I'm still waiting for the AEM EMS + the fuel management to arrive. My stage 3 axles aren't here yet either. Argg..... Now that I think about it, I've spent too much. I'm calling it quit after I'm done with this project and get myself something nice and luxurious.

 

[DesertNightEagle]

Originally posted by reikoshea@May 5 2005, 09:56 PM
So yeah im looking for bolt on upgrades (for now...might have someone port polish and bore the cylinders blah blah later)

So im probably just gonna be trying to mess with people from stop light to stop light, nothing REALLY competative, but im still willing to invest money. Which parts are the best for such activities

[post=495723]Quoted post[/post]​

ok, so i'm assuming your car is pretty much stock? um, not sure how much money you have, but should you go with the port and polish you might as well get stuff while you have the head off. invest money in new cams(i personally say stick with your main brand) so since you have a skunk2 catback might as well stick with them. get new valve springs and titanium retainers. and importantly, get adjustable cam gears for dyno tuning later on. if you want little stuff, go with AEM's V2 intake (it's pretty expensive tho). I'd go with a Greddy header or see if RSR makes one for the h22. And while your down unbolting the old shit might as well get a new highflow cat. You can also invest your money in a new intake manifold (which skunk2 now makes for the h22 now although i dont know the numbers it pulls) and a new throttle body to bring in more air.


however, Getting a Greddy header is tougher than it looks. everytime i called them they weren't making any at the moment and kept saying another 3 months. If you have need one right away I say just go with DC sports, might not be the best but it works.