I took my car out for a test drive and the clutch seemed fine except when I shift at higher rpm then I lose the clutch pedal and I have to pull over until i get pedal again...takes about 2 minutes before I can get a good pedal to take off again. I don't power shift but if I run each gear up to at least 6k rpm and i try to shift at that high rpm i shift successfully but I lose the pedal after that...no pressure at all..I have to wait a while before it gets pressure again...any ideas?...an no I am not power shifting...it drops about 2k almost before I shift...it just seems to do this at high rpms...sometimes when I start the car I lose clutch pedal but thats sometimes...and I have not hydraulic fluid leak so I am ok there
No Clutch Pedal no pressure
- Thread starter RIT Civic
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2fastaccord
Senior Member
That is strange, the first thing that came to mind for me was the fluid. So if it is not that, that's pretty strange.
Peace*
Peace*
Flush your fluid, you may have air in your clutch lines. It is real easy to do and only takes 5 mintues tops. I like to use a higher quality brake fluid because it gives the pedal a tad firmer feel. Find the Clutch bleeder screw (normally, a little in front of the header) Put a clear tube on her and run it to a bottle. Open the clutch fluid resivoior then have a freind pump the clutch pedal and put new fluid in accordingly. The nice thing about the clutch fluid bleeder screw is it is a one way valve so you don't have to keep opening and closing the valve, just pump away and snug close when done. Once the fluid comes out clean out of the tube, your done. Snug the bleeder screw closed and give the clutch one or two more pumps.
sleepercivic
Senior Member
don't think the master cylinder is going to help out the clutch issue
master = brakes
slave = clutch
master = brakes
slave = clutch
The slave cylinder does not have a "one way valve". Its just a bleeder screw, like any other. If you don't bleed it properly (like brake bleeding and not like someone suggested in this forum) you're goin NOWHERE fast. All you're gonna do is suck a bunch of air into your hydraulic clutch system and make it ten times worse.
How do I know? Because I reverse bleed my clutch. By forcing fluid, under pressure, into the slave, through the line, and up into the reservoir, all, and I mean all of the air is expelled. If the bleeder was "one way" I wouldn't be able to reverse bleed the system. It works great, by the way, and takes about a minute.Its also an excellent way to bleed brakes. You can pump the clutch pedal all day and you wont get all the air out. All you need is a little hand-operated pump called a "Mighty Vac", about $20. And worth every penny. Comes in very handy for many automotive tasks that involve moving fluids around and bleeding systems.
How do I know? Because I reverse bleed my clutch. By forcing fluid, under pressure, into the slave, through the line, and up into the reservoir, all, and I mean all of the air is expelled. If the bleeder was "one way" I wouldn't be able to reverse bleed the system. It works great, by the way, and takes about a minute.Its also an excellent way to bleed brakes. You can pump the clutch pedal all day and you wont get all the air out. All you need is a little hand-operated pump called a "Mighty Vac", about $20. And worth every penny. Comes in very handy for many automotive tasks that involve moving fluids around and bleeding systems.
sleepercivic
Senior Member
EGLSHB, don't be sorry y0! , i don't want to be spreading misinformation
i guess i was thinking about the brake mc
thanks for the correction y0!
i guess i was thinking about the brake mc
thanks for the correction y0!
what year honda do you have? I have changed my fluid 3 times on my car, and twice on integra's like how I described and never do it the brake way (pump, open, close repeat). I know that I am not just sucking up air because when I first did it, I had stock brownish fluid, then I switched to smurf jiz (ATE Superblue dot 4 brake fluid) blue fluid came out.
There is a correct way to do this. You can use a little hose on the bleeder screw along with a bottle half full with brake fluid and bleed it the conventional way. If your going to switch the Clutch Master cylinder, you have to do something called "Bench Bleeding." (Not required but recommended) Basically you secure it with a bench vice grip, and fill with brake fluid. Then with a flat end tool of some sort, force the fluid through the openings. Do this a few times and you'll rid the Master of any air. Then bleed it through the slave cylinder and you will have a great pedal feel.
there is air in the reservoir anways, you don't top it off, there is a max line and a min line (I think atleast - haven't worked on a honda for atleast a year or so) but to my understanding you should fill her up, close her up, bleed, and repeat.
Best way is to get a helms and get it from their, plus it's a good resource to look at anyways for future projects.
Best way is to get a helms and get it from their, plus it's a good resource to look at anyways for future projects.
I forgot to mention in my previous post....the best thing about reverse bleeding is it also bleeds or forces any air from the master cylinder as well. If there is air in the master cylinder you can pump the pedal til the cows come home and you wont get the air out. MXDesa is correct....you must "bench bleed" the master cylinder. Which means removing it from the car, chucking it in a vise, and acuate the piston while keeping the reservoir full. You'll never push air from the master, through the line, and out the slave. Thats why reverse bleeding is so effective. If you get a new master, make sure you bleed it before installing it in the car.
I doubt you messed up your pressure plate. If that was the case you wouldn't be able to shift at all.
There is a cool little kit made for bleeding clutch and brake master cylinders. Its just a couple plastic fittings and some rubber hose...only a couple bucks. Also, just like brake bleeding, you have bleed into a container with a submerged hose to prevent sucking in air on the back stroke. With a master, you can just loop the hose up into the reservoir. Works like a charm :roll:
I doubt you messed up your pressure plate. If that was the case you wouldn't be able to shift at all.
There is a cool little kit made for bleeding clutch and brake master cylinders. Its just a couple plastic fittings and some rubber hose...only a couple bucks. Also, just like brake bleeding, you have bleed into a container with a submerged hose to prevent sucking in air on the back stroke. With a master, you can just loop the hose up into the reservoir. Works like a charm :roll:
DEFINATELY what JDMilan says....Get a manual!!!! Any manual!!! If any of this sounds strange or is confusing, you need a book. If you don't know what you're doing, you need a book. Otherwise its hit and miss. Probably more miss than hit. Do some readin, learn the procedure, understand the concept, then go to your car. If not, yer jus pissin into the wind. 
I have not bleed the car yet but I am about to do it in a few. The question I ask you all before I go and do this is...would air in the lines cause me to have an ok clutch pedal feel but when I shift quickly or power shift at higher rpms I lose all of the pedal and have to wait for it to build up pressure...could air be causing that?...thats why I thought it could of been the pressure plate...let me know what you guys think
Its only going to take a few minutes to bleed it. If air is your problem, you'll know shortly. Try and bleed it at the slave and see if it makes any difference. If there is an improvement, you'll know you're on the right track.
Just remember to keep the reservoir full during the bleed process. And remember, if you have air in the master cylinder, bleeding the slave might not rectify the problem.
GOOD LUCK!! B)
Just remember to keep the reservoir full during the bleed process. And remember, if you have air in the master cylinder, bleeding the slave might not rectify the problem.
GOOD LUCK!! B)
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