No Clutch Pedal no pressure

[RIT Civic]

Ok guys I went ahead and did the bleeding on the slave and the clutch pedal feels fine...but when I shift at very high rpms or power shift i start to lose pressure...but if i drive like a woman then i get pressure...lol..should I try to bleed the master now?..if so how do I do this?

 

[97hatch]

i have a question. By losing preasure do you mean it goes down very easy or it is in and wont go in gear. when it does this does can you push in on the clutch while accelerating and feal it disengage?

 

[MXDesa]

Originally posted by RIT Civic@Nov 6 2003, 08:51 PM
Ok guys I went ahead and did the bleeding on the slave and the clutch pedal feels fine...but when I shift at very high rpms or power shift i start to lose pressure...but if i drive like a woman then i get pressure...lol..should I try to bleed the master now?..if so how do I do this?

You cant bleed the master. You can only bleed the whole system as one. I just finished Swaping a slave and master cylinder on my LS powered EG because i was having the same problem. My cluth feel is the shitzz now Jo!

 

[RIT Civic]

when I say I lose pressure I mean the pedal does not come back up on its own...I have to kick it back up....it takes like two or three minutes before pressure comes back up...

By the way how much did you get a slave and a master cylinder for?..i...and is it a difficult swap?

 

[jeffsciv23]

Originally posted by chopluey@Nov 4 2003, 02:04 PM
The slave cylinder does not have a "one way valve". Its just a bleeder screw, like any other. If you don't bleed it properly (like brake bleeding and not like someone suggested in this forum) you're goin NOWHERE fast. All you're gonna do is suck a bunch of air into your hydraulic clutch system and make it ten times worse.
How do I know? Because I reverse bleed my clutch. By forcing fluid, under pressure, into the slave, through the line, and up into the reservoir, all, and I mean all of the air is expelled. If the bleeder was "one way" I wouldn't be able to reverse bleed the system. It works great, by the way, and takes about a minute.Its also an excellent way to bleed brakes. You can pump the clutch pedal all day and you wont get all the air out. All you need is a little hand-operated pump called a "Mighty Vac", about $20. And worth every penny. Comes in very handy for many automotive tasks that involve moving fluids around and bleeding systems.

were would i get one of these contraptions at?

 

[RIT Civic]

bump for more suggestions

 

[chopluey]

To bleed the master you have to remove the hard line coming off it. Meaning the line that goes to your slave. Any decent auto parts store should have a master cylinder bleeding kit. The kit is just some rubber tubing and a couple different size nipples..hehe..that screw into the master where your hard line used to be. After screwing in the nipple, you attach a piece of rubber hose to it. The other end of the hose has to be submerged in brake(clutch)fluid or on the back stroke, you'll suck in air. You can either loop the hose up into the master's reservoir or place a small container of fluid nearby to submerge the end of the hose into. Then all you do is slowly pump the master cylinder and the air wil come out on the pressure stroke. On the retract stroke you will draw in only fluid if its set-up right. Remember to keep the master full during this procedure. Its very possible your master just bit the dust and will need to be replaced. Either way, you're going to have to do some master cylinder bleeding. I'd try bleeding the old one before I went out and threw down for a new one. The new one might even come with the hose and nipple in order to bleed it.
Once the master is bled, hook it back up and bleed the system again at the slave by pumping the pedal, opening the bleeder as you depress the pedal and closing the bleeder valve or keeping it submerged in fluid as you retract the pedal to prevent sucking in air.
Remember, your hydraulic clutch is exactly like your hydraulic brakes, just smaller. And instead of having a brake caliper at the end of the line you have a slave cylinder. Works just the same and all the same principles apply.
Good luck and let us know how it worked out! :unsure:

 

[RIT Civic]

thanks bro I will def. try this and let all you know how it turns out

 

[RIT Civic]

Ok guys...I bleed the master and slave and still the same thing.....I was about to go buy a slave and master cylinder to see if this dumb thing goes away BUT before I do I wanted to ask for a suggestion. Since this is really a cable tranny that I have on my hydraulic car (using the hasport cable to hydro conversion) do you think its just best that I buy a cable clutch pedal and clutch cable and make it a complete cable and eliminate the hydro sys.? Would it be wise and would it save me less headaches in the future? If so is this a hard procedure and what clutch cable and pedal do I need to make it work. I have a LS tranny on my B16a1 on my 1994 ex coupe...let me know your opinions

 

[RIT Civic]

bump for cable assembly or what????

 

[chopluey]

Couple of quick questions. I didn't see how this thread began or the info contained therein. So here goes.....
1. Did this tranny and clutch combo EVER work properly for you?
2. If it did, when did you start having problems, before or after some mod or work done?
3. Does your clutch work properly at low speeds and during conservative driving practices?
4. What type of clutch did your car originally have installed (cable or hydro)?
If you switched over to hydro from cable, are you sure you did the install corectly? Is it possible you slave is not pushing the clutch fork far enough to get complete dis-engagement?
I think its always better to use something the way it was designed and intended to be used. If it was originally cable operated, I'd stick with that. However, thats not to say you can't make it work with a hydraulic set-up.
Did you know you can also rebuild your slave cylinder. Auto parts stores have a rebuild kit. It contains the seals and other parts to have it working like new. Even though you've bled the entire system, if your master or slave has bad sealing and is passing fluid the system won't work properly. Don't know if they have a master cylinder rebuild kit, though.
Sorry if you already posted some details I just asked about.

 

[RIT Civic]

Did this tranny and clutch combo EVER work properly for you?

Yes

If it did, when did you start having problems, before or after some mod or work done?

I started having the problems when I tried to do a street dyno run with the G-tech...I am sure you have heard of it...it was the first time I really ran the card hard and really power shifted.

Does your clutch work properly at low speeds and during conservative driving practices?

Yes it works perfect

What type of clutch did your car originally have installed (cable or hydro)?

My car had a hydro...when I changed engines from sohc to dohc I got a free ls cable tranny my friend gave me...so I had to buy the hasport conversion kit to run this new cable tranny on my original hydraulic operated car.

If you switched over to hydro from cable, are you sure you did the install corectly?

Yeah I am sure I did it correctly.

So now what?...should I just try getting a clutch cable and pedal?...or anything else you might suggest?..how could it be that at regular dirinv speed and conservative driving practices the clutch works fine but at higher rpms or power shifts i lose pressure between shifts?

 

[RIT Civic]

bump for the morning