nos with pr3 pistons in b18

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nitrous with pr3 pistons in b18

i got a b18b with the b16 pr3 pistons in it and i was wondering if i could put a 50 shot wet nos kit on it relibly? the bottom end is stock but with a block guard. i got arp head studs with a fully rebuilt head. is this too much to ask outa that set up?
 
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Nitrous on OEM pistons can only be reliable for so long; it's just a matter of time before you melt a piston. If you want reliability, get forged pistons.
 
Nitrous loves high compression. The only time your compression is too high with nitrous is when the valves hit the pistons. The only problem you're going to run into with your current setup is that your pistons aren't strong enough.
 
even for a 50 shot? if not would my stock rods be alright? what if i took it back to stock b18b compresion wit the stock pistons? would i still hav the melting problem with a 50 to 100 shot? im new to nitrous
 
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Hello, welcome to my first post in this thread.

Nitrous on OEM pistons can only be reliable for so long; it's just a matter of time before you melt a piston. If you want reliability, get forged pistons.
 
yeah i read it but i didnt think a 50 shot would destroy a piston. like i sayd im NEW to nitrous. what pistons would you recomend? (brand)
 
Any amount of nitrous, over time, will destroy a cast (oem) piston. Some good brands to go with would be Wiseco, CP, or SRP. Pistons aren't exactly cheap, but they pay for themselves in reliability. It would also be a good idea to throw in a set of forged rods as well, from a reputable company such as Eagle, Crower, or Carrillo.
 
If you're planning on spraying it (which you are), I'd go ahead and get pistons that would put you at LEAST around 12.5:1 and get your car re-tuned with the nitrous. Like I said, nitrous LOVES high compression, the higher the better.
 
if i ran that high of compresion would i need to upgrade anything els? i got arp head studs but would that hold it? what bout my starter would it turn over? i gues im usd to sbc engines and that just seems way high
 
I've run as high as 13.5:1 in the past with no problems... the ARP's will do just fine, as will your oem starter.
 
ok cool. what bout cams? my oem work fine? what bout my cylinder walls..i got a blox block gaurd but is that enough?
 
A block guard will be sufficient, just make sure you hone the cylinders after installing it to ensure that they aren't out-of-round. Your OEM cams will be ok, however youll make more power with aftermarket cams. If you've got the budget, go for it.
 
It all depends on your fuel system and your tune. If you're running your stock fuel pump I wouldn't throw more than a 75 shot at it.
 
i was planing on picking up a wabro 255 fb, run a regulator, and get a chiped ecu. you think all that would get me to a 100 shot? also if i did a 100 shot what would be a ball park hp would i be around when im using the nitrous?
 
i'm in the process of using an 80hp wet shot on my lsv.

cast ls pistons w/ block guard. 9.8: CR

i would not run anything over 80 shot through a single fogger set up. at a 100 shot you should go searching into direct port set ups.

i have used a 100 shot through my current set up [at the track] but i dont want to invest in a direct port system so 80 is all i would run.
 
ok so ill stick with a 75 shot for now. now being that im new to nitrous what would the comperison be btw a turbo pull and a nitrous pull? can you feel the difference when you hit that button or actavate the switch?
 
yeah you feel it...


start with the lowest pills and work up tothe shot desired.

with aa 75 shot you should be ok with a stock plug and a retard on 2-3 deg.

but some might say to get a step colder plug.

buy both and see if the cold plug stays dirty.

to check plugs:

take your tools
find a long no traffic rd
do a full throttle pull through 4th gear
press clutch and turn off engine immediately roll to a safe place
check plugs.

if the plug is too cold youll see sut /carbon on the ceramic

if its too hot it will look cleaner but the ceramic will have peppering
 
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